When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have decided instead of replacing the entire differential unit on my 94 with a stouter Dana 44, I am going to replace just the ring & pinion and bearings as needed. I did some searching and I think from the posts, that several folks here on CF have gone this route, and I would like to know what parts are recommended for the job. I have a 94 A4 which currently has 2.59 r&p, I want to install a 3.73 or thereabouts. I will more than likely have a local speed shop do the work. I actually have thought about doing this myself but lack some of the precision measuring devices that I would need to dial in the gears correctly. I am making this choice based on current budget, and expected use of the car. I don't plan on racing this at the track often or making more than 375RWHP, so I think for this application it will be more than adequate to handle the job.
Any input welcome.
Mid America/ Ecklers used to sell complete rear ends ready to bolt up: just add oil and swap the speedo gears and your down the road. I bought a 3.73 from them over 5 years ago and it has run problem free since the install ~ but I don't run 350 + horsepower.
Just one comment. I don't see a D 36 holding up to 375 RWHP at all if you put on sticky tires.
I really can't say myself one way or the other because I don't have any tested data, but the builder I talked with yesterday claims the Dana 36 will work fine up to 400hp. Additionally, I don't really have any plans to put sticky drag slicks on the car and launch it hard from the street. I also probably am dreaming about 375 RWHP. How many basic street & strip cars blow Dana 36? This is the kind of information I'm looking for it that is truly the case. But I do require hard data, as I think that we often overkill so much around here. I know that most guys that are racing on a frequent basis will swap a D44 for the D36 for a stouter rear. I have chosen to take my chances and save some money and additional work. Perhaps I'll blow the rear and have to install a D44 anyway, but I'll be able to see what it will take.
Well, since you have already decided I guess you just want comments that agree with you so.......never mind.
You don't have to agree. My initial question is what are the part nos. I'll need for the swap and if anyone had input about the specific swap that I'm planning. I knew that people would say to use the D44, because that is the typical answer. I understand that the 44 is a HD unit but from real world information I have been given, the D36 will work fine for most applications. True? or not?
From: One day you're a Comet...the next day you're dust... Arkansas
Originally Posted by biggrizzly
You don't have to agree. My initial question is what are the part nos. I'll need for the swap and if anyone had input about the specific swap that I'm planning. I knew that people would say to use the D44, because that is the typical answer. I understand that the 44 is a HD unit but from real world information I have been given, the D36 will work fine for most applications. True? or not?
No That is why GM put D44's in LT4's which has WAY less than 375 RWHP. ( 100 RWHP less ) My comment was based on YOUR senario not MOST applications. The reason people go with D44's on big HP applications is from "real life" broken rear ends. That's why it IS conventional wisdom. That is also the "proof" you are asking for.
No That is why GM put D44's in LT4's which has WAY less than 375 RWHP. ( 100 RWHP less ) My comment was based on YOUR senario not MOST applications. The reason people go with D44's on big HP applications is from "real life" broken rear ends. That's why it IS conventional wisdom. That is also the "proof" you are asking for.
I see this thread is going nowhere! As usual we still have no hard facts, or data. How about specific cars that were dynoed and failed. I know it happens in high HP applications, but where is the breaking point? what are the conditions? There are tons of variables that cause differential failure. I don't see where 350 to 375RWHP is High HP, but maybe I'm way off base here.
My opinion is the Dana 36 will hold up fine with 375 HP and street tires. The tires will spin before you can put enough torque through them to break the Dana 36. I ran my Dana 36 with 342 RWHP and 380 RWTQ with sticky tires at the strip at least 50 times and it never broke. At that time I was running low 1.7 60 ft times and low 12's in the 1/4.
I did switch to a Dana 44 but the Dana 36 was still going strong.
My opinion is the Dana 36 will hold up fine with 375 HP and street tires. The tires will spin before you can put enough torque through them to break the Dana 36. I ran my Dana 36 with 342 RWHP and 380 RWTQ with sticky tires at the strip at least 50 times and it never broke. At that time I was running low 1.7 60 ft times and low 12's in the 1/4.
I did switch to a Dana 44 but the Dana 36 was still going strong.
Look at my sig. My D36 with 3.54 gears is still working well. I will be switching to a D44 (4.10 gears) over the winter though, but only because I will be changing to a bigger cam.