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Just wanted everyone to know we replaced the EST module and the ignition module and the problem has been solved. Thanks for everyone's time and assistance. At worst, I now know what an FSM is! <vbg> Thanks again.
Just wanted everyone to know we replaced the EST module and the ignition module and the problem has been solved. Thanks for everyone's time and assistance. At worst, I now know what an FSM is! <vbg> Thanks again.
Both of them? What did each cost? What else did you have to replace to solve this? How much were those parts? It hardly seem the EST or ignition module would cause hard starting and yet run well once started.
Both of them? What did each cost? What else did you have to replace to solve this? How much were those parts? It hardly seem the EST or ignition module would cause hard starting and yet run well once started.
B.T.W. what is "<vbg>"?
RACE ON!!!
the ignition module is just usually good or bad..i'd beter break out my book on the "est" statement.
Well. Just when you thought it was safe ... the cold start problem is back. Nothing has worked. However, I have an FSM on the way (thank you CFI-EFI). Should get it in a couple of days. Here's what's going on if anyone has any ideas or has seen this before. You start the car cold in the AM. It starts right up, runs for almost exactly one minute and dies as if you just turned off the key. Sometimes I can feel a slight "miss" and can see a variation in the dash lighting just before it dies but it dies immediately. If you try to start it up again, it won't "fire". You have to wait several minutes, then try to start again only you pretty much have to put the gas pedal to the floor to get it to turn over. When you finally get it re-started, it can run for up to 2 minutes, then it dies again. I went through all the 1986 Service Bulletins and did find one talking about an "intermittent no start condition" caused by the VATS (anti-theft) which shuts down the system for 4 minutes which could be the reason the car is hard to start after stalling. Fuel pressure if fine, no codes being reported either. #9 cold start injector has been totally bypassed so that's not the problem. The problem exists only in an "open loop" mode. After the car heats up (around 200+ degrees) it usually runs just fine. I do get a "low coolant light" occasionally but it comes and goes and I do get a "service engine soon" light that comes on but only after the car has died. There are service bulletins on these as well but I don't know if they are related to the cold start problem. The engine is 85% new and performs very well, if you can just get the car started. I'll start with the FSM as soon as I get it but until then if anyone has any ideas, I'd really appreciate them. Thanks.
It's not the VATs or it would NOT crank. You said the fuel pressure was fine.....what were the readings and how far and long did it take for the pressure to drop after the key was turned off? If you hold the pedal to the floor and that helps it to start you have a flooding problem (new injectors or not). Did you ever pull codes? I'd eliminate the ignition control module as a problem...they usually show their ugly head after the engine has warmed up if their on their way out. How new is the fuel pump and fuel filter?
Thanks Rick for the info on the VAT. I did pull codes but it was so long ago that I will re-set everything, get it running and pull codes again at the first sign of any kind of warning light. I believe I did get a 32 which I also read in the service bulletins was a "false" code but again, it seems so long ago I'm really not sure anymore. I did read that GM changed computers in 86 and I'm not sure whether I have the old one or the new one. Apparently that will make quite a difference, especially in module compatibility. I'm going to pull the numbers on my computer to find out whether I have the old or the replacement. Will change out fuel filter. Fuel pump was replaced in June of 2006 along with the fuel pump strainer. I have the paperwork on it. Thanks again for your time and help.
For anyone who might be interested, I eliminated every possibility under the hood and finally replaced the ECM since there wasn't anything left to isolate. No problems since. Took about 40 miles for the ECM to "cooperate". I was able to cut the engine by moving wires going into the ECM. Obviously something was loose or a connection was bad. Got my FSM from Helms yesterday. Ordered one for an '86. They sent an '89 with an '86 electrical supplement. Sent it back. They're supposed to be sending the right one. What a hassle.