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I have what looks exactly like a fusible link on the wiring harness going to the starter. Its busted and causing my car not to have power. I've looked through several diagrams including the Power Distribution one that Agent86 gave me and it doesnt show a fusible link in this location.
Thinking about it, this wouldnt make sense to have a fusible link there because the starter draws about 70 amps to turn the engine over, so it would blow every time. So does anyone have a clue as to what it is near the starter? Its got a red wire going into it like all the other fusible links.
Ok, an update for ya. Its the wiring harness coming from behind the engine. There are 2 RED wires going into a black cylinder with one TAN wire coming out. I'd say that all 3 of these wires are probably 10 gauge wires. I really need to know if this is a fusible link or not.
EDIT: 16 amp fusible link is the culprit. /thread
Last edited by Demonic85; Oct 18, 2007 at 06:04 PM.
Is the suspected fuse link wire bolted to the same terminal on the starter as another heavier wire?
Yep that be the one, it was the medium sized wire. I have no idea why there is a fusible link there but there is. I bought a new one at NAPA to solder in and wrap up.
That answers your question about why wouldn't the fuse link blow every time you start the car. The fuse link wire is receiving power from the heavier wire, not supplying it, the heavy wire handles the starter load. The fuse link may supply power to the ignition switch however that will prevent the car from starting.
The service manual should have some detailed instructions for replacing the fuse link, make sure you follow them to get a good repair.
Starting in '89, there's a link at the starter suppling power to the a/c blower module (electronic air) or blower relay (manual air). It's 16 gage protecting a 14 gage circuit. Don't know your Year, but if it opens, it shouldn't shut down the car - what the starter sucks in amps has nothing to do with the demands of the Module/Relay (any more than the alternator at full tilt has any effect on the wiring at the Junction Block.) Other wires at the starter are a 2 gage from the battery (black) and 10 gage (purple) from the neutral safety switch.
I have an '85 and the wire in question is the 12V source for the rest of the car. Its essentially the same thing when you disconnect that terminal from the starter. No power can make it from the starter to the rest of the car. Even though the starter has power, none is reaching the ignition switch.
Yes I know how to repair it.
1. Disconnect battery
2. Disconnect the fusible link from the wiring harness or cut it out.
3. Strip the insulation
4. Solder the new one in place with rosin core
5. Wrap it up good with electrical tape
6. Reconnect the battery
Well, I don't know the '85, but there's something about juice from the starter to the ignition that doesn't make sense. Juice flows from the ignition switch assuming it clears VATS, through an enable relay and onto your starter. The source (along with all the other power sources)is generally on a fusible link behind the battery and that's fed by the battery and alternater. It then goes through the big connector to the ignition switch. At least that's how I've always seen the flow go. You need to look at a power schematic for your Year or maybe you have? Are you the original owner? Always the possibility someone mickey moused something.
Well, I don't know the '85, but there's something about juice from the starter to the ignition that doesn't make sense. Juice flows from the ignition switch assuming it clears VATS, through an enable relay and onto your starter. The source (along with all the other power sources)is generally on a fusible link behind the battery and that's fed by the battery and alternater. It then goes through the big connector to the ignition switch. At least that's how I've always seen the flow go. You need to look at a power schematic for your Year or maybe you have? Are you the original owner? Always the possibility someone mickey moused something.
The '85 doesnt have VATS, it only has an alarm system. There is nothing behind the battery as far as wiring is concerned. I do have the diagram from the FSM and it shows the power going to the starter, then to everything else. It just doesnt show a fusible link anywhere near the starter. No one messed with the car but me, i'm the 3rd owner and 2 old guys owned it before me. I've messed with a lot of stuff though, just not the wiring.
I just took another look at the diagram Agent 86 was kind enough to provide, and it is a little puzzling to me too based on what you are telling us. Maybe SunCr or CFI-EFI can see something I'm missing if I post the link again.
Fusible link K is said to be in the engine harness near the starter and yet it connects to the jump start junction block which should be at the left rear of the engine, two different places!
That link should be for the climate control system anyway, almost seems like the car has been modified or the diagram is incorrect. I would replace the link and see what you have, good luck!
Ya, that schematic isn't helping things out. Here's a pic of the starting system. You will see your medium wire going from solenoid to ignition switch. Unfortunately, the pic doesn't tell you anything about fusible links, but it does clear the air on, why she won't crank.
Last edited by AGENT 86; Oct 19, 2007 at 10:09 AM.
Seems to me someone just wired this a little differently. Battery power should run to the Starter and the Junction Block. Maybe someone replaced the OEM cable and simply took the junction block lead and stuck it on the Starter (maybe because there's a lug there that's a little easier to work with than the side post cable?) That still connects it to the Battery only with the increased distance, adds the potential for a voltage drop. That'll heat things up and if the connector is loose, that can open the link. I do believe that GM uses this set up on some of it's G bodies, only because the power junction is closer to the starter. Who knows? Fix it and make sure the connector is good.
According to the diagram its the BAT wire going to the distributor from the starter.
I soldered the new link in, wrapped it up real good, and then added heat reflective wrap on top of that so it wont happen again. I reconnected the battery and guess what I got power. I got it and put the key in, the lights are all on. When I tried to start it, it cranked over for about 1 second and then died... completely. I have no power AGAIN!
I was just wondering if you have checked the fuseable link agian just to make sure it is still good and didn't fry again. You check all your other fuses.... ignition fuse, or anyothers. Battery still has enough charge on it right? Hmm.... wish I could be there to help trouble shoot.
I was just wondering if you have checked the fuseable link agian just to make sure it is still good and didn't fry again. You check all your other fuses.... ignition fuse, or anyothers. Battery still has enough charge on it right? Hmm.... wish I could be there to help trouble shoot.
Yes sir, battery has 12.8 volts. Same voltage at the starter. No voltage at the wire leaving the starter
Doesn't sound good Jeremy, you have a short somewhere that keeps smoking the fuse link. I would check your new headers and exhaust looking for a wire that is pinched or burned through on the pipes, good luck man. You are earning your mechanic stripes on this one!
Doesn't sound good Jeremy, you have a short somewhere that keeps smoking the fuse link. I would check your new headers and exhaust looking for a wire that is pinched or burned through on the pipes, good luck man. You are earning your mechanic stripes on this one!
I got back in the car and turned the key to on and the lights came back on! WTF? I think i've narrowed down my problem. I believe there is a short around the fusible link due to my poor soldering skills I can hear it spark or click or something down there when I try to start it.
Check it out and see what you find. A bad connection is not a short, it is an open circuit.
The bare wire touching metal or grounded is a short, an open will not blow the fuse link unlike a short.