C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Chasing the threads

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Old Dec 12, 2007 | 01:12 AM
  #21  
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Whenever I chase a thread with a tap (of the correct SIZE) I've NEVER gotten any metal 'filings' in the debris, unless the thread was buggered first.

Forget this nonsense of a Tap vs. a Chase. All you want is to clean out the origonal threads of debris. A Tap made the First thread......use a Tap to CHASE the threads clean.

Sheesh!
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Old Dec 12, 2007 | 07:39 AM
  #22  
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You really need clean threads to get accurate torque measurements, any junk in the thread COULD cause the torque reading to come up before the proper amount of clamping force is achieved. Most machinists measure the bolts for stretch whenever possible. IE: rod bolts. Torque is not really the best method for knowing when enough/proper clamping force is applied.
The idea of the thread chaser is jut to clean out old threads, A new tap COULD remove some metal? Don't forget everything has a tolerance, nothing is perfect. One hole in the block that does not hold torque is more costly than a set of thread chasers.
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Old Dec 12, 2007 | 09:22 AM
  #23  
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How timely I was wondering about this myself.
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Old Dec 12, 2007 | 10:49 AM
  #24  
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$50.00 at Sears for the set.
Every Sears store I have been in has them on the shelf.
The idiot employees won't have a clue WTF you want, but they are there in a red plastic case under the tap and die sets.

Craftsman 40 pc. Tap and Die Set, Master Rethreader
Sears item# 00952105000 Mfr. model# 52105
$49.99

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...ord=rethreader
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Old Dec 12, 2007 | 11:17 AM
  #25  
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bomar76,
Thanks for the link to the Sears set. Looks like a much better deal than the Summit ones.
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Old Dec 12, 2007 | 11:41 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by bomar76
$50.00 at Sears for the set.
Every Sears store I have been in has them on the shelf.
The idiot employees won't have a clue WTF you want, but they are there in a red plastic case under the tap and die sets.

Craftsman 40 pc. Tap and Die Set, Master Rethreader
Sears item# 00952105000 Mfr. model# 52105
$49.99

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...ord=rethreader
This is the one to get. I've used one for 10 years. I build my own engines and gearboxes and chase all the holes with these.

In some instances, these will will repair screwed up threads better than a tap or die. Sometimes they won't.
They're basically used for cleaning threads. If the threads are really messed up, throw away the bolt or helicoil the blind hole.
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Old Dec 12, 2007 | 11:51 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by thirdtimevetteowner
bomar76,
Thanks for the link to the Sears set. Looks like a much better deal than the Summit ones.
Glad to help.
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Old Dec 12, 2007 | 11:59 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by jsup
If that were the case, why are chases even made?

BTW, I'm done. The threads were chased, then followed with a clean bolt before I bolted everything up.

Just wonderin' if there really is no need for a chase, why is the practice recommended by every engine builder I spoke to?

In fact, one went as far as to say "make sure it's a CHASE not a TAP".
Originally Posted by Carpenter
Whenever I chase a thread with a tap (of the correct SIZE) I've NEVER gotten any metal 'filings' in the debris, unless the thread was buggered first.

Forget this nonsense of a Tap vs. a Chase. All you want is to clean out the origonal threads of debris. A Tap made the First thread......use a Tap to CHASE the threads clean.

Sheesh!
Well?
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Old Dec 14, 2007 | 09:17 PM
  #29  
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Well?....

For the average guy, the whole CONCEPT of thread cleaning before a build is 'strange'.

Fact is.....cleaning the threads, if one is CAREFUL, can be done effectively with an inexpensive tap/die set.

Or have I wandered onto the Cessna Factory Mechanics Forum by mistake?


Last edited by Carpenter; Dec 14, 2007 at 09:21 PM.
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Old Dec 14, 2007 | 09:24 PM
  #30  
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"if one is CAREFUL"

..........means spending more time BACKING OFF than going forward. Know what I mean? Takes time and takes feel.
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Old Dec 14, 2007 | 10:54 PM
  #31  
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A tap can cut when used to clean threads. My machinist won't use taps to clean holes, and I wouldn't either. I have seen metal come out, even being "careful". Talk to a good engine builder and see what he says.
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Old Dec 14, 2007 | 10:56 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by etteroc27
A tap can cut when used to clean threads. My machinist won't use taps to clean holes, and I wouldn't either. I have seen metal come out, even being "careful". Talk to a good engine builder and see what he says.
I did, they said chases.

But what do they know anyway? They're not on the interweb.
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Old Dec 15, 2007 | 07:14 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Carpenter
"if one is CAREFUL"

..........means spending more time BACKING OFF than going forward. Know what I mean? Takes time and takes feel.
Yes, you are correct. Anything made with a milling machine can be made with a file. It takes a lot more time and a lot more expertise. If you have, and it seems you do, the hand skills then go for it. Using a chaser makes it a little safer for weekend mechanics.
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Old Dec 15, 2007 | 10:58 AM
  #34  
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Hmmm...ARP seems to think using a chase to clean threads is the way to go. But what do they know?
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Old Dec 15, 2007 | 12:11 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by jsup
I did, they said chases.

But what do they know anyway? They're not on the interweb.
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Old Dec 15, 2007 | 12:43 PM
  #36  
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Personally I would never use a tap to clean threads, a chase is the way to go. Cutting slots in the old bolts is a good second option.

On the note of helicoiling the hole. If you have damaged thread in something as important as a head bolt, go with a time-sert instead of a helicoil.
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Old Dec 15, 2007 | 01:15 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Michael_ERT
Personally I would never use a tap to clean threads, a chase is the way to go. Cutting slots in the old bolts is a good second option.
.
When I got out of school I used to work in a machine shop.

That's the way we used to do it, slot bolts across the threads on an angle.
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Old Dec 15, 2007 | 01:32 PM
  #38  
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There are several different types of taps available and the most common are starting taps and bottom taps. If you are careful it is possible to chase threads with a bottom tap. The threaded holes were tapped with a tap to begin with so there is usually no difference in running a tap through the hole a second time. I say usually because there are some instances where there can be a concern. When threaded fasteners are tightened some elastic deformation does take place and with heat cycles and time it is possible the shape of the threaded hole has changed a small amount but this shape change would be very small. In this case it is possible some stock could be removed with a tap causing an increase in thread clearance affecting the fit but again the amount of stock removed is usually small. A starting tap is usually the most common tap to be found in the home toolbox but is a tapered tap and will not reach to the bottom of the threaded hole. If it were me I would play it safe and use a thread chaser. They are different in that they are a couple of thousandths smaller in diameter and do not have sharp edges which cut. You are just trying to clear the holes of debris and old sealants, etc.
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Old Dec 15, 2007 | 04:12 PM
  #39  
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I used a tap on mine with no problems. Was just careful when starting it that I didn't "re-tap" the first thread.
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Old Dec 15, 2007 | 09:42 PM
  #40  
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I apologize to anyone who was offended by my earlier posts. I certainly didn't intend to be 'pushy' or anything.....it's just that I personally found success using a cheapo tap/die set. Building my motor was a costly event for my budget, so I was always conscious of buying 'specialty tools' for something I may do once every two years or so. Wherever I could save a buck, while ensuring accuracy I DID. Everything I wrote was absolute truth (fussing the taps, ensuring no re-thread, finding no metal) so it was successful for ME.

Of COURSE engine builders want the absolute best tools for their builds! They must think about PRODUCTION. They have (and pay) techs that must be fast and efficient. If I had a pro production shop I'd insist in the best tools as well. Anything less would be sub-standard. But it's EASY for them to justify those tool costs....THEY DO HUNDREDS PER YEAR!

Again, I apologize to anyone I have offended.

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