13.37 was that a 350 or 383? Any pictures of the porting and give me a list of mods

 

Dom can tell you more of course, but he was running a 350. He had TFS heads, cam, headers, IIRC.

The down side to Dom's combo, was that he only port matched and then extrude honed his intake. That doesn't remove enough metal. There was still more airflow left on the table w/Dom's set up, IMO.

Not criticizing though, as it surely was one of the faster CFI cars.

 

Was one of the faster CFI cars? What happened to it? I feel like a kid sitting around a camp fire.

 

he sold it.

 

http://s187.photobucket.com/albums/x...=Byron2007.flv

One of my last runs.

Car has been documented in Corvette Fever and Corvette Enthusiast. Here's some of the mods:

ENGINE: TFS 23d heads 195cc runner/64cc chambers
Custom Comp Cam Hyd Roller Cam and retro fit roller lifters
Crane SS Full 1.6 ratio roller rockers
Comp Cams Hardened Pushrods
Ported and Extrude Honed Xfire manifold
2.13" TBIs with 80# injectors/ Parallel Plumbed TBs.
Underdrive pulleys
Fluidamper
Flexkooler water pump


Exhaust: TPIS 1.75" Headers
Random Tech Cats
MagnaFlow Cat Back

Brakes: Upgraded C5 brakes front with EBS Green Stuff Pads
Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines

Transmission: ZF-6 with Hurst shifter
ZF Master and slave cylinder with SS braided clutch line
Fidanza AL FW
SLP Camaro LT-1 clutch disc

Differential: Dana 44 with 3.45 gears. All new Spicer U joints.

Suspension: Tokico gas shocks
Recently done front and rear hub bearings
ZFdoc Cbeam plates

Interior: Saddle with cloth sport seats
New Carpeting and door panels
CD player

Exterior: Med gray Metallic
AFS replica GS wheels with correct offset
9.5" front/11" rear with Yokohama AVS Sports

ECM: EBL and 7747

Tuning: Personally done using Zeitronix WB, Dynamic EFI. Moates Ostrich and TunerProRT. I've burned over 1000calibrations

 

was that a 13.7 with all those mods?

 

That particular run was yes. 60' was 2.2. Traction was always a problem running street tires. Motor made ~340rwtq @ 3800rpm. Did have previous runs of 13.37 and trap speed of 104.65. Best 60' I had was a 2.0. Before "all those mods", car ran 15.0 at Rt 66, so they made quite a difference.

 

not bad times for being being topped with a crossfire setup, that thing probably would have ran low 12's with a good carb setup and traction! Still that's fast enough to keep up with a factory ls1 car, possibly even beat it if the driver's inexperienced at drag racing. How much $$ was invested in mods to get it there if you don't mind me asking?

 

It would have run 12's with just traction.

 

I made a few LS1s do a double take on the street. The torque would get the car moving pronto. It would hold them off to the end but they would be gaining quickly after the 1/8.
The decision to use the Xfire manifold was deliberate. I wanted to see how far I could take it and how much of an obstacle the manifold really was. You can go to crossfire.webhop.net for a discussion of the issues with the Xfire manifold. I worked to overcome several. The use of 2 different size injectors is one of them. You'd be surprised how much smoother the motor runs with the same size injectors.
In the end, it was a real fun car to drive on the street. The ZF-6 and
C5 brakes along with the added power finally matched the Z51 suspension. Mid range was a blast.
Now the ZR-1 is a whole nuther thing. 12.8 @ 115.5 WOW! And its just getting started at the end of the 1/4.

 

can you show me what that lid spacer looks like with a picture

 

I have a question about this....You say to look for new injectors if they are spraying @ idle ( remember im a NOOB to this game, help me out ) Its a bad thing to have the injectors spraying @ idle..?

 

Your spray pattern at idle should be a wide cone shape dropping the fuel about 1/2" above the throttle plate on the bore walls. The rushing air shears the fuel off the walls and goes into suspension. That's how the fuel atomization actually happens. When you crack the throttle you'll see the cone narrow a bit.
As for the lidspacer, I don't have a pic of it. It looks like a lid gasket, just made of either aluminum or phenolic.

 

I made a lid spacer out of corian. I used the gasket as a template, so Dom is right; it looks just like a lid gasket, but thicker.

I made mine 1/2" thick, and my hope was like Dom's; that it would give more space/time for the air and fuel to make the "turn" into the plenum area. In MY experience, it did nothing except ad more places for leaks. I saw zero improvement in my 1/4 mile times w/the lid spacer, and zero discernable difference in general drivability. After about a month of daily driving heat cycles the corian began to crack and then I really had some vacuum leaks! Finally I got rid of the thing all together, and never missed it. For me and my combo, the lid spacer was no benefit, and a failure.

I do think that the radiused lid bores helped though.

-Tom

 

Tom,

Had you used injector spacers also? The phenolic was very stable. I found out later NOT to use silicone sealer on the lid gaskets. They would eventually slide out.

 

I tried them, and they definitely DO hold up better than the corian. I simply used two stock lid gaskets; one for above the spacer and one for below, w/no added sealant of any kind.

A better material would definitely hold up better, but again, FOR ME, I saw no benefit to the spacer in operation.

 

Now that's an article i would like to read sometime

 

Am I doing something wrong? Or does time move slower where I'm from?

We don't have a local racetrack so I very rarely get out to a 1/4 mile track and drag. When I do go out of town to a track I try to pick one where I can drive because I find the combination of my skill and my 84 CFI's ability really come out.

I had run into some vacume issues and such with my x-ram set up and I had torque issues that plagued me in some of the autocross events so I had gone back to my Xfire.

My mods are currently:

Mild Cam
Ignition parts
Weight reduction
Cooling system upgrade
1.6 rockers
Home made design air ram
Port and Polishing
K&N Air filter
Magnaflow Exhaust

I've yet to time it.

On the track this set up actually helped me a lot. The car feels much more responsive and is a lot quicker. In October of last year before putting the car away for the winter, I raced my friend in his Honda Prelude. We were at an airport strip. This thing is an H22 (sorry for those of you who don't care about imports) with many engine upgrades to handle plenty of boost from a couple turbos. At the wheel, on the dyno, this guy is producing just under 400hp.

He has time slips from september where he ran low 13's. His issue was also traction being front wheel drive.

Out of 4 attempts up and down the strip, I won every time by a few car lenghts.

Spring is in the air and I'm excited to get to the track. I'm in the process of changing everything up "tranny back" on the car. I have all the shafts out and I'm doing the u-joints plus its getting a new set of hubs and a break overhaul. Front end will see much of the same treatment.

Am I really to assume that my car will barely run 13.7's on the track? Considering I haven't changed heads?

My 55 Chevy is modded to crap, with over 580hp and it runs high 11's (not when I'm driving it).

I might sound like I'm complaining. I'm not. I love my car. But if I want it to perform it sounds like to me that I have to do one of two things. 1 is start using cheater juice and strap on a nos kit for the CFI hoping to get another 100hp. 2 is swap the engine. That's a lot of money.

So someone please, make me feel better and tell me my car will run 13's.

 

My 84 ran 13.3-.4 @ 104.5+ all day. However, it will take more work than you currently have in the car. And if you aren't into tuning, you are not optimizing the power you have.

http://s187.photobucket.com/albums/x...=Byron2007.flv

This vid shows the car running at 13.7 @ 103.5mph and beating out an LT-4. Traction is a real issue when you're running street tires at 35psi and putting down 347rwtq. Motor made ~ 300rwhp.
Using a 3.45 Dana 44 behind a ZF-6 trans.

"Dom can tell you more of course, but he was running a 350. He had TFS heads, cam, headers, IIRC.

The down side to Dom's combo, was that he only port matched and then extrude honed his intake. That doesn't remove enough metal. There was still more airflow left on the table w/Dom's set up, IMO.

Not criticizing though, as it surely was one of the faster CFI cars. "

I agree Tom. More airflow available. Should have ported the runners and then done the EH. I have ported the runners and Injector Housing on my LT-5. So I could do a better job on the Xfire now.

 

After reading the post yesterday and making a post of my own, it got my mind going.

I'm running a modded ECU but its a loner for now from a guy in Toronto that has a Dyno and tune shop. He's going to take the car once I'm done with it and map it out for me, give me the best ECU for it. I'm not changing heads though.

I called him and we're looking at mid May for when I can get in and get set up. I'm convinced that the advantage I have is the full port and polish. I'm going to slap in a set of bored out throttle bodies also. I'm certain I'm going to run low 13's.

So now my issue is traction. Being that most of my power starts at about 100 kph (sorry canadian, 60mph), why is traction such an issue? Anybody got tricks, except for changing tires, on how I can get more?

The new vettes are running 11's stock (sorry, that's the ZR-1) and traction is an issue also...