Hey folks;

Time to swap out my rack. It's pretty much shot, sticking quite a bit when turning left.

Two questions. What's the best deal? I'm seeing them for all different priceses and second...

Anything to look out for when doing the install? I plan on replacing tie rod ends and installing new urethene bushings. thanks much


Bob

 

The lowest price


Remember how the sway bar came out. I fought it back in, only to find I had the wrong end in first.
Good time for poly bushings on the sway bar and end links.
Do you have the FSM ??

 

You might find that the quicker steering Z51 rack will be cheaper than the standard rack.

For tie rod ends, go with either MOOG or AC Delco. Both are good. If you are changing the sway bar bushing to poly, make sure you do the rear bar too.

With the old rack out, check the condition of the power steering hoses, It's easier to replace them with the rack out.

 

I put a z51 in my 86 3 years ago, feels much better.
As for problems, the only one I can remember is getting to the clamp bolt on the passenger side, I finished us cutting a ring spanner in half and jamming it on the frame to stop it turning.
Order some new rack mounting busses whilst you are at it there pretty old by now

Barry

 

What's an FSM?

Found the rack for 150 on ebay, 150 core charge. That's about the cheapest.

Thanks for the tip on the sway bar bushings, hadn't thought of that.

Bob

 

FSM is factory service manual. I paid $165 for a rebuilt quick ratio rack from my local parts supplier. Check your local ones, they may have it stock.
Here is a little info from my FSM
http://members.shaw.ca/agent86/Power...d%20Pinion.pdf

 

unfortunately, all the rebuilts I saw looked like crap w/damaged bent lines etc. I don't trust a part when it looks like a hack job, and even the GM (remans) looked poor. I had a local shop that only rebuilds steering ***. (racks etc.) do mine, cost was 160 and inc. everything new (inner ends etc.). The moog outers are nice, the cost was 72. ea.

 

Most areas, the same rebuilder does all the steering racks for all the parts outlets, Autozone, Naapa, GM.

 

true, A1 cardone and trw being two of 3 re-mans that I had seen (auto zone, murray's etc. uses A1 in this area).

 

FSM = factory service manual, yeah, I should have known that. Yup, I have one. Thansk for posting though. I hadn't looked at the manual yet, but I've crawled under the car to assess the situation. Looks pretty cut and dry, thoug htime consuming and I guess I better purchase a tie rod end puller. Beating with a hammer is probably a bad thing.

Also think I'll check with the local auto parts shops to see if they're in stock. It would be good to see the unit rather than order something and have it sent back.

Only thing I'm not sure of how to disconnect the intermediate shaft. I didn't look real hard, but I can't see how that comes apart.

 

I'm so glad I wasn't the only one to do this! I did that the other day

 

I used an old junk distributor wrench to hold the nut in place while torquing down the bolt myself.

 

Did ya'll have to take the fan out?

 

I left it in place, caused me no grief, being there.

 

Just changed mine on an 88 Vert., here is a few tips that the factory manual doesn't cover:
1. Bend the bracket that has the long bolt. Makes manipulating the rack out and around easier. Bend back after new install.
2. The small clip that ties two small lines need to be bent, rotated and then removed to get the small screw out. Bend back to original and flip over 180 degrees to have the screw out the bottom where you can actually get at it when reassembling.
3. The large clamp that holds the return line to the rack with the bolt to the top, flip it over 190 degrees when reinstalling to get the bolt out the bottom for access when reassembling.
4. Unbolt and move the steering reservoir to get a little more room to work.
5. Its easier to use an 18mm crowfoot wrench on the high pressure line at the rack after the rack has been unbolted and rotated slightly to avoid using a universal joint on the extension with the 18mm crowfoot.
6. Rack goes out the driver side.
7. Check lines at steering pump, especially the clamped line from the reservoir to the pump. It may have been moved slightly and a small leak is possible.
8. Before installing the new rack, check the rotation of the shaft that goes into the steering column of the old rack and adjust the new rack shaft rotation to match. Should be a slight adjustment only.

Good Luck!

 

Hmmm, when I removed my fan, I had plenty of room to do what I needed and no need to bend stuff. I think I'd avoid bending anything cause all that does in the long run is weaken it.