hi guys,
well i have now started my collection of hp parts for my 2008 1991 L98 vette engine project.
i have just placed a very nice order with www.cnc-motorsports.com for alot of the parts.

first of all i brought a late model 4 bolt roller block.

high performance melling 10550 oil pump

melling 8 " deep oil pick up tube/screeen

oil pan baffle plate

Lokar billet flexible oil dip stick up grade

arp sbc oil pump drive shaft

arp pump shaft stud

arp 4 bolt mains stud kit

arp pro series flywheel bolt kit

arp oil pan bolt kit

arp balancer bolt kit

arp cam bolt kit

arp high performance head stud kit

chevy dura bond high performance heavy duty cam bearing kit

chev power plus 6" light weight harmonic damper ,5.8 lb weight

brass freeze plug kit

eagle 6" esp 3-d h beam "feather weight" forged 4340 rods

eagle 3.75 " esp 4340 forged "light weight "stroker crank shaft

clevite 77 rod and big end main heavy duty high performance ,large journals bearing kit

victor reinz quality engine build gasket set

corteco brand perfromance race head gasket set ,.029" thickness

probe brand srs Molculite 10.91.1 flat top -short skirt forged 4340 " light weight" pistons with 4.060 " bore size

perfect circle brand plasma moly steel pro racing low tension ring set

danny bee brand block protector bearing/plate

cam locking plate kit

cam shaft bushing kit

oil gallery screen kit

and they are doing the engine internal balance rotating for me.

already i have so far ,
comp cam hydraulic roller 230/236 duration @ .50 " cam/280/288 adavanced duration/580 lift and 112 degree lobe seperation

comp cam 1.6 ratio pro magnum roller rockers

comp cam roller lifters,

cut 8 " naca hood air ducts along with a/o engineering forced air filter scoop thru front bumper bar into engine bay.

180 degree robert shaw/emp modified/balanced thermo stat with 195 degree low temp fan switch.

long tube 1/3/4" diameter headers,high flow cats,x-pipe,2.5 " True duel mandrel bend exhaust pipes with magnaflow rear mufflers

aeromtoive hp adjutable fuel regulator

good year gator back performance serpentine belt

under drive pulley kit

deleted a/c,deleted air pump

comp cam one piece forged push rods,

22 lb lighter weight steel single mass flywheel

cloyes true roller double row timing chain/sprocket kit

csr hp electric water pump

8 throttle body cross ram intake manifold which has 8 x 50 mm diameter throttle bodies

heltech e6x after market fully tuneable ecm set up

msd remote coil and small billet distributor

ngk irrdium spark plugs and plug indexing washer kit

10 mm performance spark plug leads

8 x uni filter performance air filter sponge kit

walbro 255 l/per hour hp fuel pump

k&n oil filter and full synthetic oil

so next years parts i still need to buy are

Air flow research ported 210 cc inatke / 64 cc combustion comp Elimnator heads,

high performance clutch

heated oxygen sensor

large 7 quart oil pan kit

50 lb injectors

either a 3.73 or 3.90 reear ratio diff to go with my zf 6 speed box !!

and finally head stud girdle and lower block girdle and that should see me thru guys.

i would of liked too of brought a light weight 3.875 " stroker crank but they didnt have one so i settled for the 3.75 instead but with light weight components which you cant go wrong !!

for a nice light weight 388 c.i fast engine package that should at least produce 450 rear wheel screaming horsepower hopefully...

any way thanks for looking
merry christmas guys
cheers
shae

 

Don't for get the air foil!

 

how ya going road agent,
what a air foil for each of the 8 seperate throttle bodies i have you mean ???
i didnt know they made them for 8 x sepearte throttle body intakes,lol

 

When does the LT1 version come out.

 

You are better off with a stock weight crank for the street, anyway. Lightening the rest is good IMO.

You could get by with some 195 Comp Elims, too if you wanted.

 

I thought Low tension oil rings were bad.....

 

hi there guys,
thanks for your replies.
yeah i was thinking about going 195 afr heads ,but bosch vette reackons the way the 8 t/b intake breathes as in breathers very well, might as well go larger heads for that extra breathing capacity.
r.e low tension oil rings, yeah i heard some thing along those lines as well,but i have had a few reputable guys not say any thing bad about them so i left them as they were i guess.
try and see.
but thre light parts should work real nice and rev like theres no tomorrow.
but i would think i should at least gain 450 rear wheel or more plus horsepower for sure would be real nice.
infact some guys reackon i will sh*it my pants with this set up.
cant wait to se that happening,lol.
r.e the lt1 version come out well they make these 8 t/b intakes for all types of chev motors actually guys.
any way cheers for your replies.
regards
shae

 

I would't have gone with .060 over bore if I could avoid it. .030 leaves stronger cylinder walls, and allows for a rebuild later on. Other than that, It sounds like you've got some good parts to work with. Luck to you on your project.

 

hi curveit,
how are ya!
yeah i would of liked to only have to only bore block out to .030 " myself ,but the 4 " standard bores in this second hand block were fairly worn and will have to be taken out .060 " that is .30 " each side of bore that is to clean up very nice.
the main problem is there was a wear lip made at the top of each bore unfortunelty.
but on these blocks they can take .060 " ok and still be alright.
especially running full synthetic oil and high flow electric water pump there to keep things running cool.
but yeah then this will be the last time of boring for this block and then i will have to convert my 2 bolt roller block in to 4 bolt main splayed caps engine for my next engine.
buy yep im pretty happy with the list of parts i have chosen and brought.
cheers mate
shae

 

"and they are doing the engine internal balance rotating for me."

Is the flywheel neutral balance?

 

You got lots o' stuff there

Enjoy the build

 

Shae don't forget you can always sleeve them and probably cheaper than a whole new rebuild.

 

You are going to regret those low tension oil rings.Chevy used them in some later model vettes and had alot of oil consumption problems.

 

The late model, 1 pcs seal blocks are garbage, compared to pre 80 blocks. Most are too thin @ .030. Going to .060 without a sonic test is a 50/50 shot at failure.
Low tension rings on a street motor is an almost 100% problematic.
Sounds like your mind is made up. Hopefully the dice roll in your favor.

 

hi guys,
how are ya!
ok im listening to what you are saying and i will exchange low tension oil rings for some thing else as parts havent been sent of yet thanks pete k,next i found out that flywheel is neutral balanced thanks rod and i will get block sonic tested before i go ahead with the block!

so r.e sonic testing, do you get this tested after the bores are bored and honed or before work is stared please ???

can any one please reccomend any race quality plasma moly rings set then please for me to buy ??
cheers
shae

 

I can't wait to see a dyno graph of this.

 

i know,im looking so forward to hearing,driving,seeing dyno results as well mate.
so any rough idea on what this motor might produce/put out in rear wheel horsepower guys please ???
450 rwhp is a rough guess and thats what boschvettes 8 t/b intake 11:1.0 comp motor puts out at rear wheels.
cheers
shae

 

hi guys,
i need some quick help please now on your new advise given on not to buy" ultra low tension " piston rings as they are no good.
so do i buy then please?
they need top be good quality race rings please.
here is a couple of brand names in quality,
total seal
hastings
mahle
perfect circle

then there is diffrent types in standard tension
gapless rings = i heard can break easily when filing down on piston and just a pain in the *** !!
high tension
and ultra low tension rings = no good,too much oil consumption.
remember that i need them to be 4.060 " bore size please with gap size to suit pistons of 1.2,1.5,3.0 mm.
any ideas or help,links please ??
thanks
shae

 

well,can any one please advise me on what rings to now get please then ???
thanks
shae

 

All of the brands you list make quality piston rings. I am a Hastings fan, but only because I have used them without issues many dozens of times.

Standard tension, moly rings are all you need. Here in the us, they are a $40 ring set.

What does your engine builder prefer? His opinion is the most important.
When I am building one, and the customer brings me a printout of internet recommended parts, I usually show him the door. Be sure the builder is on the same page as you.