Hi,im goin thru a complete rebuild,coming back to life my old 87 L98
and i definetely want to add headers.-
i have some questions.-
The original stock "headers" or exhaust manifolds came with some air tubes connected to them.-
i have no idea if this is really a must ..and i dont have my Chilton here,its on the mechanic's house.-
That was my worry when i thought about aftermarket headers !!!
Do i have to just delete all of that ??
Now,i can find Long tube headers,ceramic coated (i like the look of kinda chromed-like) ,header to plug adaptors,block hugger with angle plugs,and a lot of options !!!!!

i want to decide and buy a cool set of headers for my daily driver that really bring the power back into the L98.-

But with all the choices i really dont know which one fits better
or are the best choice for the L98 corvette owners,please help me decide,and yes,ive been searching here but not much info.-

What's the difference between black and ceramic coated headers ?
i dont mind if they are black,im on a budget but i want a good quality header anyway.-

Thanks !

 

any info ?

 

Sent you a PM

 

ROD ! no pm received

 

If you want to delete your air, go for it, no problems, except maybe if you have emission requirements (air/cats).

Black = no coating, just plain metal painted

EM

also: Use the search function, there's tons of info on headers

 

thanx i like this thermal coated
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...429+4294839039

 

You'd actually get more out of an intake swap; "Big mouth & big tubes", but headers will add power. Most are avaliable with or without air tubes, includeing Hedman... your call. Paint won't last any time, and coatings insulate heat better anyway. If you use Hedmans be sure and mod or fabricate a rear brace for the alternator, or something will eventually break; housing or mounting bracket.

 

Thanx for your advice Curveit , i have some doubts now
- What about the o2 Sensor thread ? its included ?
- Do you reccomend that i better choose the black headers instead of the thermal coated ones ?
- Now im worried : Why something will break if i use Hedmans ? are they no good ? ive never tried any header before so i dont know.-
why you say that the brace will break ???
thanx !!!

on the instructions says : Not applicable for street use ....why ?

 

Re-read...I said the painted ones do not stay painted very long, It burns off. Coated stays nice, and gives heat protection.
The alternator bracket or the alt. case itself have been known to break if you do not re-install a rear brace; as some have done. The stock brace won't fit with Hedmans, you have to make one. There should be info in "Search" on all this, someone asked about it not long ago. With Hedmans, there was a little grinding on the flange to clear a sensor, the AC brace needs a "stand-off" for it's mount at the flange, and the dipstick tube bracket needed to be bent to fit. I think with some much more expensive brands, these mods aren't required (Hooker, TPIS, etc.) The headers you were looling at didn't have the air fittings, which are required for smog checks, thus "Not street legal".

 

Wait for EM to have a group purchase.

They built me a set with no air fittings but it had O2 bungs. That's the way it should be. It's real hard to find a set with both of those things.

And they fit REAL nice.. NO problem clearing the starter, and a very nice workmanship.

 

There is a thread in C4 Parts about a GP for stainless steel headers
by Stainless Works. Pipes both with and without A.I.R. fittings are
available.

C4 Headers And Exhaust Stainless Steel

Headers built from stainless command a premium price because of the
material costs and fabrication skills, but there is a lot of value in the
longevity that stainless offers when compared to painted or coated mild
steel headers. Scrapes, rock chips and dings don't change the picture.

Another consideration is that the primaries of the SW are 1-5/8" dia.
When I purchased my SW's in '05, they were the only supplier to offer
this size.

.

 

Check out the Hedman Elites. Lotta good feed back and good price too.

 

If I were you, I'd think about retaining the AIR connections. It would help if people knew where you lived though, as different states have different emissions requirements. But the AIR system is part of the factory emissions control system, and many states will not allow you to still drive your car on the street if you tamper with it.

Even if your state doesn't care though, emissions regs just get tighter and tighter, not looser and looser. It shouldn't be hard to get headers and still keep the AIR system.

 

I would have to say headers can be a pain. If you are not ready for the hassle I would recommend staying with stock manifolds.

Replacing the exhaust and cats made more power for me. The stock exhaust is restrictive and my cats were old, clogged and breaking apart. (this is a 90).

Used the Flowmaster Force 2 for LT1. Was half the price of the Corsas and sound great. I think the L98 design adds to resonance.

I would say get a good tune up (replace plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil (they do wear out) and get new injectors as the clog up and also wear out.

The exhaust and full tune up should run about $1200. if you do it yourself.

With headers you also need to re-route the fuel line as it ends up too close to a tube. You also might need to re-program the computer as mine threw codes when headers got put on.

Start with the basic tune up, replace the exhaust. Wait for headers until you have more money and time, maybe another car to drive while the headers get put on.

If you are set on headers get the best you can't afford and use copper gaskets. Will save you time and cursing in the future. I went with the TPIS coated headers, they use the stock bolts and alternator brace. (TPIS will have trouble on straight plug heads)

Another thing to think about if your engine is not a roller cam, is the cam might be worn out. Common problem with the dinosaur oil nowdays.

 

Carson,yes im a newby at headers
Never used them before.
Im doing a complete rebuild,i thought maybe its a good time to add them....

I know,i want to avoid any hassles i was afraid of that !

i think i will cut the cats out and put just the tubes and
the mufflers,maybe i will put some eliminators,but i think i dont like
the super loud sound,does eliminators reduce the sound a bit ?
Doing that mod,maybe i will gain some power,what you think? noticeable power ?

What about the resonance ? please tell me more !

That's a must for me! how about the Accel Super Coil that Midamerica sells ?

The exhaust and full tune up should run about $1200. if you do it yourself.

Damn,im afraid of computer changes,thats when i can command it anymore requiring chips and stuff....a pita! i dont want that
hmmm re re-routing the fuel line ...omg ..sounds difficult ?

Maybe i wont put headers,how much gain in power can i get from
adding headers ? its a noticeable difference ?
How much you paid for those ? yes,i want the best DIRECT BOLT ON if its possible kind of headers,i want to avoid mods forthe alternator brace or dipstick ,o2 sensor bungs,air tubes...i want more power but near to stock installation,what about the straight plug heads?

Its a roller engine,1987 L98


Now my doubt is...are adding headers worth ????????
is there much power difference with them ?

NO CATS NO MUFFLER = NOTICEABLE POWER ?
NO CATS NO MUFFLER + HEADERS = EVEN MORE NOTICEABLE ?

Thanx !!!

 

at this time im still in doubt

 

any news about a group purchase?

 

Don't go to cheap on what you buy you might regret it in the future. On our 87 we went with the MELROSE (check their site out) they will set them up any way you want (ours no egr,no air, no cats ,h-pipe and coated). Could not be better for fit and finish then I would have the exhaust guy bend you up something. I did buy the 3" stainless from them and then had my exhaust guy bend me some muffler eliminators man it sound nice. wro87

 

thanks !
will check them out

 

The Hedman Elites are the best bang for the buck. IMHO
Nice ball/socket collector flange (no leaks, no gaskets)
Thick flange and tubes, coated inside and out and easy hook up to the stock Y pipe.
If you don't have any testing, dump the A.I.R system. Loosing the tree off the top of the headers is worth it alone.