Instrument for applying touchup paint
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Instrument for applying touchup paint
I need to touchup a couple of spots on my vet. I am told to do it in layers, but I am not sure what instrument would work best to apply the paint. I have heard of a widdled down match.
What have you used?
What have you used?
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Racer
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 318
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From: Kissimmee FL
Process
Actually the process is easy and will look nice if done right. Unfortunately most just drop a drop on and hope for the best , heres the proper way. May take a little more time but will be correct. This is for Base coat Clear coat finish....
1) Clean spot with paint prep or paint prep wipe. You can get these for .99 cents at any parts store
2)With a small and I mean small piece of 2000 grit sandpaper clean the spot and the spot only. Remember this should almost be a valley in the paint so you are trying to clean the bottom and sides. The reason I dont use 400 grit or anything else is that most will somehow touch the side of the spot they are doing sometimes making more work.With the 2000 if you are a little over it wont matter that much. Adheasion isn't going to be a problem since you're only doing a drop.
3)You can use a matchhead but I prefer and use a small artist paint brush with a small tip. It should be small with a tip maybe the size of 10 hairs.
4) Now everyone should have real touchup paint for their cars just like the paint on the car along with a small amount of clear. If you have your paint code go to the paint store and they will sell you a pint which doesn't cost that much. If you are planning on keeping the car for awhile this paint will always come in handy down the road. I know everyone doesn't and will use the little dupli color bottles which will work just not quite as well. But when you get the dupli color paint also get a bottle of the clear dupli color.
5) Paint repair is about PATIENCE. Follow and let the paint dry before moving to the next step. A lot of problems come from those in a hurry and want to see it now.
6)Now with your brush or match take 1 tiny drop and touch it to the center and bottom of the chip you are fixing. At this point you are applying color to the spot NOT trying to fill it. In fact if you see the paint at the top than you used to much. While it is a small spot try to imagine just filling half as thats what you are trying to do. Again dont fill it with paint.
7) Now is the patience part. Go get a coffee, a beer, but dont touch it for 30 minutes, let it dry.
8) Now with a seperate brush or match apply a drop of the clear to the spot. Again this might bring the spot level with the paint surface and thats what you are looking for. Even. The more over you go the more sanding you will have to do. Thats where most get the lumpy apperance from, to much paint.Best is even.
9) Now if you are using real clear which you should be wave goodbye to the spot and you will see it tomorrow. Real clear takes a good 24 hrs. to harden properly. Now with this small spot i'm sure it will dry quicker but why chance it. If you are using the Dupil Color clear it has an accelerator in it and will probually be dry in a hour. Reality is clear is what really fills the spot.
10) After it has dried you will need a small piece of 2000 grit sandpaper or as I prefer and use 3000 grit sandpaper. Using plenty of water sand just the spot in one direction lightly. Try and contain your sanding to the spot. I know this will be hard but as close as you can. At this point you are just trying to level the spot with the paint surface. One little trick is to take a pencil with a new rubber eraser and glue small pieces of the 2000 or 3000 sandpaper to the eraser . This gives you a little better and flatter surface to work with, and the ability to keep the area small. Fingers are usually bad as they dont stay flat but sometimes you have to use your finger. Now for those who have never wet sanded you will notice that the spot will loose it's gloss and become somewhat flat looking. Thats ok thats what you are looking for. The swirl/polishing will bring it back better than ever when you are done.
11) After you are done sanding wipe again with clean water making sure the area is clean.
12) Using your choice of swirl remover for 2000 grit or better by hand or preferably with a PC do the whole area. If you've done it right the spot will blend and you want be able to tell where it was.
Thats it, kind of lengthy but the right way to make it look correct. Cost isnt really that much since all of the items you will be able to use again for other spots.....Good Luck....Gary
1) Clean spot with paint prep or paint prep wipe. You can get these for .99 cents at any parts store
2)With a small and I mean small piece of 2000 grit sandpaper clean the spot and the spot only. Remember this should almost be a valley in the paint so you are trying to clean the bottom and sides. The reason I dont use 400 grit or anything else is that most will somehow touch the side of the spot they are doing sometimes making more work.With the 2000 if you are a little over it wont matter that much. Adheasion isn't going to be a problem since you're only doing a drop.
3)You can use a matchhead but I prefer and use a small artist paint brush with a small tip. It should be small with a tip maybe the size of 10 hairs.
4) Now everyone should have real touchup paint for their cars just like the paint on the car along with a small amount of clear. If you have your paint code go to the paint store and they will sell you a pint which doesn't cost that much. If you are planning on keeping the car for awhile this paint will always come in handy down the road. I know everyone doesn't and will use the little dupli color bottles which will work just not quite as well. But when you get the dupli color paint also get a bottle of the clear dupli color.
5) Paint repair is about PATIENCE. Follow and let the paint dry before moving to the next step. A lot of problems come from those in a hurry and want to see it now.
6)Now with your brush or match take 1 tiny drop and touch it to the center and bottom of the chip you are fixing. At this point you are applying color to the spot NOT trying to fill it. In fact if you see the paint at the top than you used to much. While it is a small spot try to imagine just filling half as thats what you are trying to do. Again dont fill it with paint.
7) Now is the patience part. Go get a coffee, a beer, but dont touch it for 30 minutes, let it dry.
8) Now with a seperate brush or match apply a drop of the clear to the spot. Again this might bring the spot level with the paint surface and thats what you are looking for. Even. The more over you go the more sanding you will have to do. Thats where most get the lumpy apperance from, to much paint.Best is even.
9) Now if you are using real clear which you should be wave goodbye to the spot and you will see it tomorrow. Real clear takes a good 24 hrs. to harden properly. Now with this small spot i'm sure it will dry quicker but why chance it. If you are using the Dupil Color clear it has an accelerator in it and will probually be dry in a hour. Reality is clear is what really fills the spot.
10) After it has dried you will need a small piece of 2000 grit sandpaper or as I prefer and use 3000 grit sandpaper. Using plenty of water sand just the spot in one direction lightly. Try and contain your sanding to the spot. I know this will be hard but as close as you can. At this point you are just trying to level the spot with the paint surface. One little trick is to take a pencil with a new rubber eraser and glue small pieces of the 2000 or 3000 sandpaper to the eraser . This gives you a little better and flatter surface to work with, and the ability to keep the area small. Fingers are usually bad as they dont stay flat but sometimes you have to use your finger. Now for those who have never wet sanded you will notice that the spot will loose it's gloss and become somewhat flat looking. Thats ok thats what you are looking for. The swirl/polishing will bring it back better than ever when you are done.
11) After you are done sanding wipe again with clean water making sure the area is clean.
12) Using your choice of swirl remover for 2000 grit or better by hand or preferably with a PC do the whole area. If you've done it right the spot will blend and you want be able to tell where it was.
Thats it, kind of lengthy but the right way to make it look correct. Cost isnt really that much since all of the items you will be able to use again for other spots.....Good Luck....Gary
Last edited by 96vetteLT4; Jan 23, 2008 at 12:06 PM. Reason: addition info
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
Actually the process is easy and will look nice if done right. Unfortunately most just drop a drop on and hope for the best , heres the proper way. May take a little more time but will be correct. This is for Base coat Clear coat finish....
1) Clean spot with paint prep or paint prep wipe. You can get these for .99 cents at any parts store
2)With a small and I mean small piece of 2000 grit sandpaper clean the spot and the spot only. Remember this should almost be a valley in the paint so you are trying to clean the bottom and sides. The reason I dont use 400 grit or anything else is that most will somehow touch the side of the spot they are doing sometimes making more work.With the 2000 if you are a little over it wont matter that much. Adheasion isn't going to be a problem since you're only doing a drop.
3)You can use a matchhead but I prefer and use a small artist paint brush with a small tip. It should be small with a tip maybe the size of 10 hairs.
4) Now everyone should have real touchup paint for their cars just like the paint on the car along with a small amount of clear. If you have your paint code go to the paint store and they will sell you a pint which doesn't cost that much. If you are planning on keeping the car for awhile this paint will always come in handy down the road. I know everyone doesn't and will use the little dupli color bottles which will work just not quite as well. But when you get the dupli color paint also get a bottle of the clear dupli color.
5) Paint repair is about PATIENCE. Follow and let the paint dry before moving to the next step. A lot of problems come from those in a hurry and want to see it now.
6)Now with your brush or match take 1 tiny drop and touch it to the center and bottom of the chip you are fixing. At this point you are applying color to the spot NOT trying to fill it. In fact if you see the paint at the top than you used to much. While it is a small spot try to imagine just filling half as thats what you are trying to do. Again dont fill it with paint.
7) Now is the patience part. Go get a coffee, a beer, but dont touch it for 30 minutes, let it dry.
8) Now with a seperate brush or match apply a drop of the clear to the spot. Again this might bring the spot level with the paint surface and thats what you are looking for. Even. The more over you go the more sanding you will have to do. Thats where most get the lumpy apperance from, to much paint.Best is even.
9) Now if you are using real clear which you should be wave goodbye to the spot and you will see it tomorrow. Real clear takes a good 24 hrs. to harden properly. Now with this small spot i'm sure it will dry quicker but why chance it. If you are using the Dupil Color clear it has an accelerator in it and will probually be dry in a hour. Reality is clear is what really fills the spot.
10) After it has dried you will need a small piece of 2000 grit sandpaper or as I prefer and use 3000 grit sandpaper. Using plenty of water sand just the spot in one direction lightly. Try and contain your sanding to the spot. I know this will be hard but as close as you can. At this point you are just trying to level the spot with the paint surface. Now for those who have never wet sanded you will notice that the spot will loose it's gloss and become somewhat flat looking. Thats ok thats what you are looking for. The swirl/polishing will bring it back better than ever when you are done.
11) After you are done sanding wipe again with clean water making sure the area is clean.
12) Using your choice of swirl remover for 2000 grit or better by hand or preferably with a PC do the whole area. If you've done it right the spot will blend and you want be able to tell where it was.
Thats it, kind of lengthy but the right way to make it look correct. Cost isnt really that much since all of the items you will be able to use again for other spots.....Good Luck....Gary
1) Clean spot with paint prep or paint prep wipe. You can get these for .99 cents at any parts store
2)With a small and I mean small piece of 2000 grit sandpaper clean the spot and the spot only. Remember this should almost be a valley in the paint so you are trying to clean the bottom and sides. The reason I dont use 400 grit or anything else is that most will somehow touch the side of the spot they are doing sometimes making more work.With the 2000 if you are a little over it wont matter that much. Adheasion isn't going to be a problem since you're only doing a drop.
3)You can use a matchhead but I prefer and use a small artist paint brush with a small tip. It should be small with a tip maybe the size of 10 hairs.
4) Now everyone should have real touchup paint for their cars just like the paint on the car along with a small amount of clear. If you have your paint code go to the paint store and they will sell you a pint which doesn't cost that much. If you are planning on keeping the car for awhile this paint will always come in handy down the road. I know everyone doesn't and will use the little dupli color bottles which will work just not quite as well. But when you get the dupli color paint also get a bottle of the clear dupli color.
5) Paint repair is about PATIENCE. Follow and let the paint dry before moving to the next step. A lot of problems come from those in a hurry and want to see it now.
6)Now with your brush or match take 1 tiny drop and touch it to the center and bottom of the chip you are fixing. At this point you are applying color to the spot NOT trying to fill it. In fact if you see the paint at the top than you used to much. While it is a small spot try to imagine just filling half as thats what you are trying to do. Again dont fill it with paint.
7) Now is the patience part. Go get a coffee, a beer, but dont touch it for 30 minutes, let it dry.
8) Now with a seperate brush or match apply a drop of the clear to the spot. Again this might bring the spot level with the paint surface and thats what you are looking for. Even. The more over you go the more sanding you will have to do. Thats where most get the lumpy apperance from, to much paint.Best is even.
9) Now if you are using real clear which you should be wave goodbye to the spot and you will see it tomorrow. Real clear takes a good 24 hrs. to harden properly. Now with this small spot i'm sure it will dry quicker but why chance it. If you are using the Dupil Color clear it has an accelerator in it and will probually be dry in a hour. Reality is clear is what really fills the spot.
10) After it has dried you will need a small piece of 2000 grit sandpaper or as I prefer and use 3000 grit sandpaper. Using plenty of water sand just the spot in one direction lightly. Try and contain your sanding to the spot. I know this will be hard but as close as you can. At this point you are just trying to level the spot with the paint surface. Now for those who have never wet sanded you will notice that the spot will loose it's gloss and become somewhat flat looking. Thats ok thats what you are looking for. The swirl/polishing will bring it back better than ever when you are done.
11) After you are done sanding wipe again with clean water making sure the area is clean.
12) Using your choice of swirl remover for 2000 grit or better by hand or preferably with a PC do the whole area. If you've done it right the spot will blend and you want be able to tell where it was.
Thats it, kind of lengthy but the right way to make it look correct. Cost isnt really that much since all of the items you will be able to use again for other spots.....Good Luck....Gary
These spots are small, is it helpful to clean (sand) the spot with an electrical tool?
Last edited by Jag77; Jan 23, 2008 at 12:53 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 11,672
Likes: 20
From: Lake Wylie SC
I have a deep scratch on my removalable hard top. I bought the coded paint for it and sprayed the area after the above preparation. After a day's drying, I lightly sanded with 2000 grit and buffed it with a micro polishing compound and it all came off. 
I guess I needed to put clear over it. Oh well live and learn. Maybe this spring I'll try it again.
I guess I needed to put clear over it. Oh well live and learn. Maybe this spring I'll try it again.
Racer
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 318
Likes: 0
From: Kissimmee FL
only tool to use would be a PC and that would be for the whole area. Sanding wise its pretty much got to be by hand, to small an area . And you dont want to use spray touch up, needs to be liquid and small. Sprays have to many chemicals.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,110
Likes: 6
From: Red Sox Nation! RI
I've had good luck with an artist's paint brush - very thin and firm. I got some at "Michaels" the hobby / flower store. The microdabbers that http://automotivetouchup.com sells work awesome too.
Mother's chip repair or the Langka blob eliminator both work great for leveling touchup blobs as well and is easier than wet sanding. Napa should have 2000 + grit paper.
Mother's chip repair or the Langka blob eliminator both work great for leveling touchup blobs as well and is easier than wet sanding. Napa should have 2000 + grit paper.
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From: Summerland B.C. Canada
Racer
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 318
Likes: 0
From: Kissimmee FL
If you go to Meguires web site they sell the 3000 paper and believe me its nice...works wonders on those little touch up spots or even small areas that you might want to barely wet sand. Pretty hard to get yourself in trouble with 3000, I mean it can be done but you got to stay in one spot for a long time....G
