LTx rotating assembly questions
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,871
Likes: 15
From: Detroit's West Side MI
It has the added advantage of making the Optispark removeable without removing it first. A fact I've taken advantage of already.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,238
Likes: 10
From: College Station TX
Yeah, forgot about the damper. I put an ATI piece on mine. Thank goodness Tom and Will showed up or I would have forgotten to mention that key part...
It has the added advantage of making the Optispark removeable without removing it first. A fact I've taken advantage of already.
It has the added advantage of making the Optispark removeable without removing it first. A fact I've taken advantage of already.
I see 1 steel and 3 aluminum. I would ASSume I want it to be under-driven, so the 917275 and the 917273 look good, but I'm not sure what the difference is between them.
Edit: Looks like one includes hardware and one doesn't.
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,871
Likes: 15
From: Detroit's West Side MI
I'll have to check. It's aluminum. If I remember correctly there's one for the F body and one for us. I should have the PN at home if you want it.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,102
Likes: 1
From: Portsmouth Virginia 396LT4 435RWHP/400RWTQ Best so far 11.26 @ 123mph
Brad,
the #275 is the 6 7/8' underdrive with a steel hub. It comes with fasteners and also a spacer for 94/95 to compensate for the reluctor ring you have on the 96 so spacer is not required. I have owned two of these dampers over the years and currently run one on the 95 with good results. Almost went with the aluminum hub option but figured it would be overkill for the street unless you race it full time and want the lightest possible. The only difference I saw in the newest damper versus the old one was the 3 bolts that go in the front face for removal were different. They went with a clutch head type bolt rather than a oval allen head bolt head. This reduced my clearance between the face of the damper bolt head and the steering rack housing to about an 1/8 inch. I swapped out the bolts for new oval allen head type to get back about 5/16" clearance. May not be your problem but thought I would mention it. Good luck.
Rick Geer
the #275 is the 6 7/8' underdrive with a steel hub. It comes with fasteners and also a spacer for 94/95 to compensate for the reluctor ring you have on the 96 so spacer is not required. I have owned two of these dampers over the years and currently run one on the 95 with good results. Almost went with the aluminum hub option but figured it would be overkill for the street unless you race it full time and want the lightest possible. The only difference I saw in the newest damper versus the old one was the 3 bolts that go in the front face for removal were different. They went with a clutch head type bolt rather than a oval allen head bolt head. This reduced my clearance between the face of the damper bolt head and the steering rack housing to about an 1/8 inch. I swapped out the bolts for new oval allen head type to get back about 5/16" clearance. May not be your problem but thought I would mention it. Good luck.
Rick Geer
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,102
Likes: 1
From: Portsmouth Virginia 396LT4 435RWHP/400RWTQ Best so far 11.26 @ 123mph
Brad,
All aluminum hub and shell is 917273.
steel hub /aluminum shell is 917275.
If you buy pieces seperately, then the shell part no# is same for both 91707144.
the steel hub only is 916096A.
the aluminum hub only is 916094.
I took this right off there web site.
RG
I have installed 4 or 5 of these dampers for myself and other people before but only one aluminum hub type. The interference for aluminum type is about .002" or more vice about .001" for steel if my memory serves me correctly. I used a hot plate to heat the alum. hub a couple hundred degrees to help install it on the crank snout. Seemed to work pretty good. Just had to install fairly quickly while hub was still hot.
All aluminum hub and shell is 917273.
steel hub /aluminum shell is 917275.
If you buy pieces seperately, then the shell part no# is same for both 91707144.
the steel hub only is 916096A.
the aluminum hub only is 916094.
I took this right off there web site.
RG
I have installed 4 or 5 of these dampers for myself and other people before but only one aluminum hub type. The interference for aluminum type is about .002" or more vice about .001" for steel if my memory serves me correctly. I used a hot plate to heat the alum. hub a couple hundred degrees to help install it on the crank snout. Seemed to work pretty good. Just had to install fairly quickly while hub was still hot.
Last edited by PDQUIK95; Feb 13, 2008 at 12:42 PM. Reason: add info
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,238
Likes: 10
From: College Station TX
So, if I'm doing rods and pistons, I might as well make it a 383, right?
I was looking at some inexpensive stroker cranks.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...E&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...2&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku
Are any of those decent? Or, what is recommended? I really don't need a forged crank and definitely can't afford one, so I would have to stick to the cast stuff. I know the stock LT1 is internal balance at the front and external at the rear, but I would ASSume I want to internally balance it and get my flywheel neutral balanced.
How much clearance work is needed on the block with 6.0" rods?
I was looking at some inexpensive stroker cranks.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...E&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...2&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku
Are any of those decent? Or, what is recommended? I really don't need a forged crank and definitely can't afford one, so I would have to stick to the cast stuff. I know the stock LT1 is internal balance at the front and external at the rear, but I would ASSume I want to internally balance it and get my flywheel neutral balanced.
How much clearance work is needed on the block with 6.0" rods?
Last edited by Mojave; Feb 13, 2008 at 07:35 PM.
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Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,624
Likes: 431
From: Dale City VA
So, if I'm doing rods and pistons, I might as well make it a 383, right?
I was looking at some inexpensive stroker cranks.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...E&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...2&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku
Are any of those decent? Or, what is recommended? I really don't need a forged crank and definitely can't afford one, so I would have to stick to the cast stuff. I know the stock LT1 is internal balance at the front and external at the rear, but I would ASSume I want to internally balance it and get my flywheel neutral balanced.
How much clearance work is needed on the block with 6.0" rods?
I was looking at some inexpensive stroker cranks.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...E&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...2&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku
Are any of those decent? Or, what is recommended? I really don't need a forged crank and definitely can't afford one, so I would have to stick to the cast stuff. I know the stock LT1 is internal balance at the front and external at the rear, but I would ASSume I want to internally balance it and get my flywheel neutral balanced.
How much clearance work is needed on the block with 6.0" rods?
I sent you a link to a SCAT 9000 series cast cranks. It is internal balance. As far as budget priced stuff they are the best going.
As for the balance, Yes IMO you would want to have internal balance. I know you said you had an Alum FW. If its a Fidanza Alum FW the weight just unbolts, easy to make it neutral. I have used that particular SCAT crank with both neutral and the stock weighted FW's before and they balance out fine either way - as long as the bob weight is under 1750. Over that you are going to need a few slugs of mallory depending.
Clearancing on the block is totally dependant on what rods you are using. If you are using those C&A's we talked about, I honestly couldn't tell you as I've never used that particular rod before. It's usually not a whole lot of work as long as you have a good die grinder and carbide bur.
Will
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,695
Likes: 0
From: Chicago Illinois
Mojave, I here you when you say your on a budget but you are already in deep with this motor and will kick yourself later for not doing the forged 383. If you have no kids that are depending on you for food and shelter, I say do it! Pull out the credit card. Do what it takes. A 383 LT4 with a LE top end. Your gonna need new rear tires every summer! 425 rwhp 415 rwtq
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,238
Likes: 10
From: College Station TX
Mojave, I here you when you say your on a budget but you are already in deep with this motor and will kick yourself later for not doing the forged 383. If you have no kids that are depending on you for food and shelter, I say do it! Pull out the credit card. Do what it takes. A 383 LT4 with a LE top end. Your gonna need new rear tires every summer! 425 rwhp 415 rwtq
I'd really like to see 425 RWHP, then if I could get a few more pounds off of my car, it would be bye bye C6 Z06!
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,238
Likes: 10
From: College Station TX
So, now that I'm going to be making more power, what to do for a clutch. 1 week before it exploded, I put in a new stock Valeo clutch and Fidanza. I definitely want to keep the Fidanza, but will a stock clutch even stand a chance with this kind of power?
Most usage will be RR/Auto-x, but I'm sure I'll take it to the strip at least once to make all the local drag racers shutup.
Can I expect some decent life, or am I going to be pulling the stocker back out in a month? I'm really tired of taking the trans in and out...
Most usage will be RR/Auto-x, but I'm sure I'll take it to the strip at least once to make all the local drag racers shutup.
Can I expect some decent life, or am I going to be pulling the stocker back out in a month? I'm really tired of taking the trans in and out...
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,871
Likes: 15
From: Detroit's West Side MI
BTW, don't get your hopes too high, 425 rwhp is pretty optimistic. Shoot for around 400 so you can keep it robust.
I can send you video of my car pulling on a C5Z down the back straight if you don't think that's enough hp...
Of course later in the same video is an EVO pulling away from me like I am standing still
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,238
Likes: 10
From: College Station TX
ARP main bolts or convert to main studs?
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,238
Likes: 10
From: College Station TX
There will be pics soon. Hard to take pics of parts until you get them. But I did get my rods today: 6.0" Childs and Alberts. They are pretty....
