C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Long Start

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Old Feb 17, 2008 | 08:06 AM
  #1  
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Default Long Start

ok seems like it happens more on warm days and after it is warmed up but i need to leave the key on for like 10-30 sec before firing the motor and then it will start if i dont if will not fire no matter if i pump the gas or hold it to the floor, is this a fuel pump, fuel filter? Disrubitor?

any ideas

1985 bone stocker
new plugs and plug wires (it has been doing this since i bought it)
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Old Feb 17, 2008 | 09:38 AM
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Have you done any fuel delivery diagnosing ??
Having to wait 10-30 seconds is odd as the pump runs for only 2 seconds. Maybe your fuel filter is so plugged it takes 10-30 seconds for the fuel to fight it's way through.
http://members.shaw.ca/corvette86/Fu...mDiagnosis.pdf
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Old Feb 17, 2008 | 10:10 AM
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Leaving the key on beyond the 2 second priming period does nothing. Because the starting problems are only when it's warm, suggests the possibility of a leaking injector(s). It's time to do some trouble shooting.

RACE ON!!!
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Old Feb 17, 2008 | 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by AGENT 86
Have you done any fuel delivery diagnosing ??
Having to wait 10-30 seconds is odd as the pump runs for only 2 seconds. Maybe your fuel filter is so plugged it takes 10-30 seconds for the fuel to fight it's way through.
http://members.shaw.ca/corvette86/Fu...mDiagnosis.pdf
Cool Fuel Filter is like 10 bucks so i will start there, I have done so far

Valve cover gaskets
160 Degree Thermostat (and new thermostat housing)
new belt
new hoses
New healight motor
replaced digital gauge cluster
flushed the cooling system
plugs (passenger side #1 man what a freaking pain)
wires
Oil Change
Fixed Vacum leaks (where i have seen them)

So i do not think i have done any thing to screw it up

It runs a ton smoother I toyed with replacing the Dist and rotor button but i think it is a little out of my skill range (afraid i will screw up the timing) and it sounds a ton better after plus and wires. so i took the "if it aint broke" path. I am not sure if a dist and rotor button would make a diffrence ot not. I do not see any cracks on the dist cap.

I still need to have the front seal repalced in the Trany (400 bucks) ouch man ouch!
and if i lock the doors the motor will not start unless i un hook and re hook up the battery....yeah found about that one the day i bought it.
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Old Feb 17, 2008 | 11:29 AM
  #5  
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Especially if you don't know it's history, a new fuel filter is never a bad idea, but if it were clogged enough to inhibit starting, you wouldn't be able to drive the car. Most of what you've done wouldn't affect starting except the plugs and wires, for the good. The 160° thermostat won't make your engine idle any cooler (the time of high temp concern) but it will slow warm ups, contributing to a shorter engine life. BTW, the passenger side #1 plug, is #2.

RACE ON!!!
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Old Feb 17, 2008 | 11:39 AM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by CFI-EFI
Especially if you don't know it's history, a new fuel filter is never a bad idea, but if it were clogged enough to inhibit starting, you wouldn't be able to drive the car. Most of what you've done wouldn't affect starting except the plugs and wires, for the good. The 160° thermostat won't make your engine idle any cooler (the time of high temp concern) but it will slow warm ups, contributing to a shorter engine life. BTW, the passenger side #1 plug, is #2.

RACE ON!!!
Yea i know that now I am going to a 180 degree in a couple weeks I wonder if i should try some fuel cleaner I hear new injectors are real expensive and a pain to change. The plugs looked good for as old as they were, No oil and they were a carbon gray and dry.
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Old Feb 17, 2008 | 12:05 PM
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Try taking the car to an auto parts store that will scan it for free. They should be able to let you if anything is wrong, and if they give you a read out, post it here.
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Old Feb 17, 2008 | 12:07 PM
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The first thing I would do is put a fuel pressure gauge on it to see what's happening. You can verify the priming operation, check to be sure the pump can maintain pressure under the maximum demand, check for leak down, and diagnose the cause of the leak down, if there is any. You can guess and throw money and parts at it until the cows come home. Trouble shoot it and fix the PROBLEM rather than shot gun it. If you are rich enough to waste time and money on unnecessary parts and procedures, take to a Chevy dealer. You will spend a ton of money, some unnecessarily probably, but at least you won't get your hands dirty.

RACE ON!!!
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Old Feb 17, 2008 | 12:13 PM
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Correction. The above should read the second thing. The first thing should be as RandyJ75 said, check for trouble codes. There are three main tools you need if you plan to work on your C4. In order of importance they are the FSM, a DVOM, and a fuel pressure gauge. Good luck, and...

RACE ON!!!
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Old Feb 17, 2008 | 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by CFI-EFI
Leaving the key on beyond the 2 second priming period does nothing. Because the starting problems are only when it's warm, suggests the possibility of a leaking injector(s). It's time to do some trouble shooting.

RACE ON!!!
Leakin' injectors will also make for a heavy black puff at start-up; especially COLD.

Have you checked cold start exhaust like in the am?
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Old Feb 17, 2008 | 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by schrade
Leakin' injectors will also make for a heavy black puff at start-up; especially COLD.

Have you checked cold start exhaust like in the am?
no white ish smoke Oil i persume 91k miles will do that
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Old Feb 17, 2008 | 02:06 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by RandyJ75
Try taking the car to an auto parts store that will scan it for free. They should be able to let you if anything is wrong, and if they give you a read out, post it here.
I wish it is a 85 they can not scan those 96 and up
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Old Feb 18, 2008 | 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by shamdave
no white ish smoke Oil i persume 91k miles will do that
White usually means coolant. Check the radiator?


Black = gas
Blue = oil
White = coolant
Combo = $
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Old Feb 18, 2008 | 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by CFI-EFI
You can guess and throw money and parts at it until the cows come home. Trouble shoot it and fix the PROBLEM rather than shot gun it.
My joke; you're welcome...

Fully Automatic Assault Wallet.
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Old Feb 18, 2008 | 04:57 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by schrade
White usually means coolant. Check the radiator?

Black = gas
Blue = oil
White = coolant
Combo = $
the oil is clean I just changed it and it was black with no rainbows and i do not see any leaks, it only does it at start up? It never uses any ccolant but it does use a little oil (half a quart every 2 weeks) so maybe it is blue (never have seen "blue" smoke it always looks gray or white to me)
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