Replacing front Ball joints
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 4,290
Likes: 6
From: St Marys GA
Replacing front Ball joints
How big of a job is it? After lowering my '96, I took it to the alignment shop, and they showed me that both the upper and lower ball joints on both sides of the car are shot (I knew this, but hoped it wasnt as bad as it is), and need to be replaced before it can hold an alignment.
Of course, they priced me like $600 just for one side, but I looked up on Mid America and found a rebuild kit including all 4 ball joints and the inner tie rod ends (I need them as well) for $250. How big of a job is it? I know how to get to the ball joints, but what about getting the old joints out of there and new ones in? I have the FSM, but not with me. Thanks!
Of course, they priced me like $600 just for one side, but I looked up on Mid America and found a rebuild kit including all 4 ball joints and the inner tie rod ends (I need them as well) for $250. How big of a job is it? I know how to get to the ball joints, but what about getting the old joints out of there and new ones in? I have the FSM, but not with me. Thanks!
Pro
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 560
Likes: 0
From: Hamilton New Jersey
Get a ball joint press. It presses the old ones out and the new ones in. Normally you can get ball joints out with one swift blow with a hammer though. What brand parts are in the kit? Sounds like a good price if the parts are decent quality.
Pro
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 560
Likes: 0
From: Hamilton New Jersey
here is a extremely low priced kit from harbor freight http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38335
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 4,290
Likes: 6
From: St Marys GA
Thanks for the Harbor Freight link. I'll take a look around and see what I can afford 
Here is the kit I am talking about: http://www.mamotorworks.com/corvette-3-153-1122.html
It says they "exceed OEM specs", whatever that means. I am confused though; are the A-arm bushings included? It sounds like they aren't, but if they aren't then the individual components are cheaper than $250 ($230), those being the set of 4 ball joints and 2 inner tie rod ends.
Here is the kit I am talking about: http://www.mamotorworks.com/corvette-3-153-1122.html
It says they "exceed OEM specs", whatever that means. I am confused though; are the A-arm bushings included? It sounds like they aren't, but if they aren't then the individual components are cheaper than $250 ($230), those being the set of 4 ball joints and 2 inner tie rod ends.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 891
Likes: 18
From: Dayton Ohio
I have photo's from when I did my lowers and can post them in a how to format like I did for the rear axle if it would help out. (see http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1846086) They include using the ball joint tool. Just about the only thing the uppers would add to the job is the hassle of drilling out the rivets (if so equipped). Plan on a full day to finish the job. It will probably go faster if everything goes your way.
I would also recommend renting the tool from your local discount auto parts house. It will save you some cash unless you desire to have the tool. You won't use it much but sometimes it is nice to have these things.
Matt
I would also recommend renting the tool from your local discount auto parts house. It will save you some cash unless you desire to have the tool. You won't use it much but sometimes it is nice to have these things.
Matt
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 4,290
Likes: 6
From: St Marys GA
QUESTION: How do you get the rear-ward bolt out of the lower control arm? I tried this weekend when I was wiggling my spring out, but the bolt hits the frame before it's completely out, and I can't see any way of getting it out save cutting it in half and buying another one, then inserting that one in from the opposite direction (bolt will go in from the inside of the arm, not outside) when it comes time to reinstall. ???
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Instructor
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 121
Likes: 0
From: Wellington Fl
Went through this on my 96 a few months back, that bracket can be removed without supporting the engine. I didn't believe it at first but several people on the forum advised me, and sure enough they were correct. It does not support the engine mount.
And like 86Gold says don't be intimidated it is not that bad of a job, although I did cheat and remove the arm and have a machine shop repress the new ball joints. Good luck
And like 86Gold says don't be intimidated it is not that bad of a job, although I did cheat and remove the arm and have a machine shop repress the new ball joints. Good luck
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 4,290
Likes: 6
From: St Marys GA
Thanks guys. I feel a bit better now. I know how to get to the joints, and how to take the control arms off; it sounds like the ball joints themselves won't be much of a problem with the right tools, which I will work on borrowing, or possibly just taking them somewhere.
What kind of money were you charged for replacing the joints? Also, did they grease them and everything, so they were ready to be bolted back up?
What kind of money were you charged for replacing the joints? Also, did they grease them and everything, so they were ready to be bolted back up?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 3,284
Likes: 51
From: Jacksonville, FL
St. Jude Donor '08 thru '26
I would just add one thing to all the great info that's been offered by all the other guys here......be very wary of ball joints that seem to be inexpensive.
I'm kind of old so I tend to stick with the stuff that has worked for me in the past......Moog only, the ones we used to call "gushers", the stud cup has relief holes for the new grease to force the old grease out when you do your lube work. These are waaaay expensive, but peace of mind sometimes isn't cheap. JMHO.:o
Tom
I'm kind of old so I tend to stick with the stuff that has worked for me in the past......Moog only, the ones we used to call "gushers", the stud cup has relief holes for the new grease to force the old grease out when you do your lube work. These are waaaay expensive, but peace of mind sometimes isn't cheap. JMHO.:o
Tom
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 3,504
Likes: 4
From: Mexico Beach FL
I think I am correct when I say this affects the ball joints for C4s -- the recall says "Upper Ball Joint", but I think it is a C4 "lower."
If you have Moogs, I would check the date code against the recall.
Moog recall:
http://www.allworldauto.com/recalls/...all_44145.html
Tom Piper
Last edited by Tom Piper; Feb 20, 2008 at 08:47 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 3,284
Likes: 51
From: Jacksonville, FL
St. Jude Donor '08 thru '26
I think I am correct when I say this affects the ball joints for C4s -- the recall says "Upper Ball Joint", but I think it is a C4 "lower."
If you have Moogs, I would check the date code against the recall.
Moog recall:
http://www.allworldauto.com/recalls/...all_44145.html
Tom Piper
If you have Moogs, I would check the date code against the recall.
Moog recall:
http://www.allworldauto.com/recalls/...all_44145.html
Tom Piper
made between '89 & '00, and 415 units?????? that can't be four hundred and fifteen....I'm gonna go look up the p/n because as you pointed out a doubt about the p/n's.
I still have the OEM joints in my 90.....they don't fail any of the traditional tests and they haven't failed the FSM test yet. I still stand by what I said about being sure about the quality of the parts ya buy though.....I'm kind of from the "there is no free lunch" school of thought.
Tom
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 9,927
Likes: 38
From: South Carolina
St. Jude Donor '03 & '05
Went through this on my 96 a few months back, that bracket can be removed without supporting the engine. I didn't believe it at first but several people on the forum advised me, and sure enough they were correct. It does not support the engine mount.
And like 86Gold says don't be intimidated it is not that bad of a job, although I did cheat and remove the arm and have a machine shop repress the new ball joints. Good luck
And like 86Gold says don't be intimidated it is not that bad of a job, although I did cheat and remove the arm and have a machine shop repress the new ball joints. Good luck
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 4,290
Likes: 6
From: St Marys GA
You'll know it when you see it, lol. The rear-ward bolt on the lower control arm has about 2" between the A-arm mount and some other surface that it hits before it can be removed. I didn't see any way of removing the bracket, but apparently it can be.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 9,927
Likes: 38
From: South Carolina
St. Jude Donor '03 & '05
I was just wondering if you or anyone had pictures or advice on how to get this out. The FSM is okay, but it is also designed for a mechanic faliliar with the automobile, as I have used the FSM for years.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 9,927
Likes: 38
From: South Carolina
St. Jude Donor '03 & '05