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My '92 LT1 has a Crimestopper CS-2000II that was already installed when I purchased the car. I have dealt with intermittent alarm problems since I got the car, so it's time to fix it.
About 1 out 10 times when you arm the alarm with the remote, the alarm goes off. It will also occasionally go off when you open a door, even though the alarm is disarmed. The only way to get it to shut up is to insert the key in the ignition...simply inserting it does the trick, you don't have to turn the key. The remote has no effect.
I "think" the factory alarm may be active as well. When the alarm goes off because of the shock sensor, etc., it is a long-short-long-short sound. When the improper alarm described above happens it is long-long-long.
My '92 LT1 has a Crimestopper CS-2000II that was already installed when I purchased the car. I have dealt with intermittent alarm problems since I got the car, so it's time to fix it.
About 1 out 10 times when you arm the alarm with the remote, the alarm goes off. It will also occasionally go off when you open a door, even though the alarm is disarmed. The only way to get it to shut up is to insert the key in the ignition...simply inserting it does the trick, you don't have to turn the key. The remote has no effect.
I "think" the factory alarm may be active as well. When the alarm goes off because of the shock sensor, etc., it is a long-short-long-short sound. When the improper alarm described above happens it is long-long-long.
Well, the factory alarm does not have a shock or motion sensor. You didn't say what the alarm sound was either, but all the factory one does is sound the horn in short beeps.
Well, the factory alarm does not have a shock or motion sensor. You didn't say what the alarm sound was either, but all the factory one does is sound the horn in short beeps.
The only sound comes from the car horn, with the false alarms being short-short-short
My '92 LT1 has a Crimestopper CS-2000II that was already installed when I purchased the car. I have dealt with intermittent alarm problems since I got the car, so it's time to fix it.
About 1 out 10 times when you arm the alarm with the remote, the alarm goes off. It will also occasionally go off when you open a door, even though the alarm is disarmed. The only way to get it to shut up is to insert the key in the ignition...simply inserting it does the trick, you don't have to turn the key. The remote has no effect.
I "think" the factory alarm may be active as well. When the alarm goes off because of the shock sensor, etc., it is a long-short-long-short sound. When the improper alarm described above happens it is long-long-long.
I had an intermitten problem with my aftermarket Alarm/Remote Start and with the help of the audio group forum I was able to track it down. Turned out to be some loose connections on mine.
My '92 LT1 has a Crimestopper CS-2000II that was already installed when I purchased the car. I have dealt with intermittent alarm problems since I got the car, so it's time to fix it.
About 1 out 10 times when you arm the alarm with the remote, the alarm goes off. It will also occasionally go off when you open a door, even though the alarm is disarmed. The only way to get it to shut up is to insert the key in the ignition...simply inserting it does the trick, you don't have to turn the key. The remote has no effect.
I "think" the factory alarm may be active as well. When the alarm goes off because of the shock sensor, etc., it is a long-short-long-short sound. When the improper alarm described above happens it is long-long-long.
If I can assume that the after market alarm you have also has remote keyless entry then I would suggest that is what is causing the problem. It's all in the way the factory system arms and disarms itself via the door locks. Read up in your owners for proper locking and unlocking procedures for the factory alarm system.
I had similar problems with my 92 because it had a Viper alarm installed over the factory alarm.
I ended up removing the Viper because I didn't really need it. But there are other options, one of which is to bypass the door lock siwtches. You will have to remove the door panel, find the plug that goes to the door lock switch, remove it from the lock, and create a jumper across the two terminals. Once you've jumpered it find a way to secure it permanently and tuck the wires back into the door frame.
Just getting back around to this. Twice now I have gone to get in the car (car sitting unlocked in the garage with the aftermarket alarm not armed) and the alarm goes off when I open the door. Turning the key in the door silences it. I do not have an owners manual for the car.
This weekend I will pull the door panels and see if I can run down those wires. You wouldn't know the wire colors, would you? I need to fix the passenger door panel, anyway, as the top of it is loose and flopping around.
Just getting back around to this. Twice now I have gone to get in the car (car sitting unlocked in the garage with the aftermarket alarm not armed) and the alarm goes off when I open the door. Turning the key in the door silences it. I do not have an owners manual for the car.
This weekend I will pull the door panels and see if I can run down those wires. You wouldn't know the wire colors, would you? I need to fix the passenger door panel, anyway, as the top of it is loose and flopping around.
When you take the door panel off reach inside to where the door lock is. You will find a a plug harness going into the key switch. Disconnect that and fashion a jumper accross the two terminals on the side no longer attached to the keyswitch. Very important - do this only on one lock not both. You should never have to turn the key switch again to shut of the alarm because the vehicle computer thinks that you have the key in the lock at all times.
To test: before you put the cover back on, make the alarm go off then put the jumper accross the terminals.If the alarm goes off you're good to go.
Got this done today. Messed with it for a while and was unable to get it to make a peep, so we will see if that has if fixed. Thanks a lot for the help!
Well, the plot thickens. Drove it yesterday, and noticed the interior lights were on. Pulled the panel, checked my connectors, etc. and during all that the lights went out. And stayed out. Wouldn't come back on unless I used the dash switch, so I buttoned it back up just to see what happened. Opened the door this morning and the lights came on like they are supposed to. And stayed on. Pulled the courtesy fuse and now here I am again. Ideas?
Well, the plot thickens. Drove it yesterday, and noticed the interior lights were on. Pulled the panel, checked my connectors, etc. and during all that the lights went out. And stayed out. Wouldn't come back on unless I used the dash switch, so I buttoned it back up just to see what happened. Opened the door this morning and the lights came on like they are supposed to. And stayed on. Pulled the courtesy fuse and now here I am again. Ideas?
When I did the bypass on my door key switch I had the same issue. What is was for me was that I had jumpered both doors at the same time and the system did not like that. I took one of the jumpers out and the system went back to working normally. That's why on my post above I stated that's it's important that you only do one door.
Now that is interesting. I didn't even pull the driver's door panel, did everything on the passenger side. Wonder if there is something wrong with the driver's door switch, and that is why I kept getting all the falses? Next chance I get I'll pull the driver's side and jump it, and pull it on the passenger side.
Now that is interesting. I didn't even pull the driver's door panel, did everything on the passenger side. Wonder if there is something wrong with the driver's door switch, and that is why I kept getting all the falses? Next chance I get I'll pull the driver's side and jump it, and pull it on the passenger side.
Before you pull the other panel try using a resistor to jump the drivers door out. Try a 2.2K.
Before you pull the other panel try using a resistor to jump the drivers door out. Try a 2.2K.
Do you mean replace the jumper in the passenger door with a 2.2k resistor, and continue to leave the driver door untouched? (Jump one door with 2.2k resistor, leave the other door untouched?)
Do you mean replace the jumper in the passenger door with a 2.2k resistor, and continue to leave the driver door untouched? (Jump one door with 2.2k resistor, leave the other door untouched?)
leave the passenger side alone until you try the resistor on just the drivers side. if that works then youdon't have to tear appart the passenger door panel for no reason.
I originally did everything in the passenger door, and left the driver door alone. Passenger door panel is not staying in place along the top, so I tried to fix that while I had it apart.
If it makes a difference then I will put the passenger door back stock and do the modification on the driver door. It only takes a few minutes, so it's no big deal. I just appreciate the info
Blankety blank blankin' blank, it's going off again. This worked perfectly for a couple of months, but now it goes off pretty much every time I get in the car. Ideas?
I'm still fighting with this thing, and I've had it. Where are the roots so I can pull them out? I see posts about older C4s where people are advised to remove a fuse, or cut a black wire, but I don't think those apply. Do they?