Weatherstrip Install
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 129
Likes: 0
From: Ewa Beach Hawaii
Weatherstrip Install
In process of installing my Willcox weatherstrip kit. On the A and B pillars, did you guys start in the middle and work your way down each side or just start on one side and work your way around? Thanks.
1987 Coupe.
1987 Coupe.
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 158
Likes: 0
From: Houston TX
I did my A-pillars / windshield header twice:
Once without thinking it through, and once to fix the resulting crap job...
In retrospect, I now know to start at the CORNERS (top of the A-pillars) and work my way in both directions. Because the corners are where lots of things come together (targa top/window/pillar). Also, the very nature of weather stripping is that it's flexible as hell and tends to over or
under stretch, so it's good to have a baseline from which to start....
The back end was cake...
ALSO: I did all of my weather stripping at once, THEN tried to re-install the targa top. That was one bonafide mother F-er... Freaking, freaking difficult, my friend. If I ever do C4 weatherstripping again, I'll do one bit at a time, then re-install the targa top to let it seat in the new rubber (overnight between sessions).
Last edited by El T1; Mar 12, 2008 at 02:45 AM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 129
Likes: 0
From: Ewa Beach Hawaii
Take it for what it's worth:
I did my A-pillars / windshield header twice:
Once without thinking it through, and once to fix the resulting crap job...
In retrospect, I now know to start at the CORNERS (top of the A-pillars) and work my way in both directions. Because the corners are where lots of things come together (targa top/window/pillar). Also, the very nature of weather stripping is that it's flexible as hell and tends to over or
under stretch, so it's good to have a baseline from which to start....
The back end was cake...
ALSO: I did all of my weather stripping at once, THEN tried to re-install the targa top. That was one bonafide mother F-er... Freaking, freaking difficult, my friend. If I ever do C4 weatherstripping again, I'll do one bit at a time, then re-install the targa top to let it seat in the new rubber (overnight between sessions).
I did my A-pillars / windshield header twice:
Once without thinking it through, and once to fix the resulting crap job...
In retrospect, I now know to start at the CORNERS (top of the A-pillars) and work my way in both directions. Because the corners are where lots of things come together (targa top/window/pillar). Also, the very nature of weather stripping is that it's flexible as hell and tends to over or
under stretch, so it's good to have a baseline from which to start....
The back end was cake...
ALSO: I did all of my weather stripping at once, THEN tried to re-install the targa top. That was one bonafide mother F-er... Freaking, freaking difficult, my friend. If I ever do C4 weatherstripping again, I'll do one bit at a time, then re-install the targa top to let it seat in the new rubber (overnight between sessions).
BTW, nice TBSS in your avatar. I have one too, a 2006, artic white, no options except SS, love it.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,326
Likes: 18
From: Los Angeles California
I started from the center and worked my way out. I engaged the strip along only the more difficult side of the retainer to tuck it into, and then went back afterwards with a paint scraper and to tuck the strip into the easier side without accidentally untucking it from the first. This worked pretty well for me. Make sure you see both sides of each retainer you're supposed to get at as well as any holes for pinning the weatherstrip down.
Here's another tip: I didn't use any weatherstrip glue on any of the strips in my car, and so as I find places where I didn't quite tuck it in to the retainer right, I still have a chance to correct it. Weatherstrip glue is not necessary and makes this job a lot messier and harder.
Here's another tip: I didn't use any weatherstrip glue on any of the strips in my car, and so as I find places where I didn't quite tuck it in to the retainer right, I still have a chance to correct it. Weatherstrip glue is not necessary and makes this job a lot messier and harder.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 129
Likes: 0
From: Ewa Beach Hawaii
I started from the center and worked my way out. I engaged the strip along only the more difficult side of the retainer to tuck it into, and then went back afterwards with a paint scraper and to tuck the strip into the easier side without accidentally untucking it from the first. This worked pretty well for me. Make sure you see both sides of each retainer you're supposed to get at as well as any holes for pinning the weatherstrip down.
Here's another tip: I didn't use any weatherstrip glue on any of the strips in my car, and so as I find places where I didn't quite tuck it in to the retainer right, I still have a chance to correct it. Weatherstrip glue is not necessary and makes this job a lot messier and harder.
Here's another tip: I didn't use any weatherstrip glue on any of the strips in my car, and so as I find places where I didn't quite tuck it in to the retainer right, I still have a chance to correct it. Weatherstrip glue is not necessary and makes this job a lot messier and harder.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,491
Likes: 94
From: Westfield MA
Here's another tip: I didn't use any weatherstrip glue on any of the strips in my car, and so as I find places where I didn't quite tuck it in to the retainer right, I still have a chance to correct it. Weatherstrip glue is not necessary and makes this job a lot messier and harder.
Intermediate
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
From: Clearwater FL
How do you re-adjust the top?
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,491
Likes: 94
From: Westfield MA
take the sunvisors off and the piece of molding that goes across the top of the windshield (interior plastic) and there are two brackets that the bolts that hold the top down go through. There are two torxs bolts that hold the brackets to the windshield header, I think they are the same size as the top bolts so your top removal tool will work on them. Before loosening them, it is good to mark them so that you know where they were and then slide them up like an 1/8" of an inch. See if you can get the top on, if not, go up a little more...........................
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Corvette ZR1X Will Be Pacing the Indy 500, And Could Probably Race, Too!
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvettes Coming to Mecum Indy 2026!
Brett Foote
Top 10 C9 Corvette MUST-HAVES to Fix These C8 Generation Flaws!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Revolutionary 'Corvette Firsts' Most People Don't Know
Joe Kucinski
5 Reasons to Upgrade to an LS6-Powered Corvette; 5 Reasons to Stay LT2
Michael S. Palmer
2027 Corvette vs The World: Every C8 vs Its Closest Competitor
Joe Kucinski
10 Most Common Corvette Problems of the Last 20 Years!
Joe Kucinski
5 MOST and 5 LEAST Popular Corvette Model Years in History!
Joe Kucinski
2027 Corvette Buyer's Guide: Everything You Need to Know!
Joe Kucinski
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 90,675
Likes: 304
From: SE NY
Cruise-In II Veteran
On the A and B pillars, did you guys start in the middle and work your way down each side or just start on one side and work your way around?
I too found that "popcicle sticks" from local craft shop worked well and did not tear the WS.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,135
Likes: 0
From: Sebastian Florida
St. Jude Donor '06
Take it for what it's worth:
I did my A-pillars / windshield header twice:
Once without thinking it through, and once to fix the resulting crap job...
In retrospect, I now know to start at the CORNERS (top of the A-pillars) and work my way in both directions. Because the corners are where lots of things come together (targa top/window/pillar). Also, the very nature of weather stripping is that it's flexible as hell and tends to over or
under stretch, so it's good to have a baseline from which to start....
The back end was cake...
ALSO: I did all of my weather stripping at once, THEN tried to re-install the targa top. That was one bonafide mother F-er... Freaking, freaking difficult, my friend. If I ever do C4 weatherstripping again, I'll do one bit at a time, then re-install the targa top to let it seat in the new rubber (overnight between sessions).
I did my A-pillars / windshield header twice:
Once without thinking it through, and once to fix the resulting crap job...
In retrospect, I now know to start at the CORNERS (top of the A-pillars) and work my way in both directions. Because the corners are where lots of things come together (targa top/window/pillar). Also, the very nature of weather stripping is that it's flexible as hell and tends to over or
under stretch, so it's good to have a baseline from which to start....
The back end was cake...
ALSO: I did all of my weather stripping at once, THEN tried to re-install the targa top. That was one bonafide mother F-er... Freaking, freaking difficult, my friend. If I ever do C4 weatherstripping again, I'll do one bit at a time, then re-install the targa top to let it seat in the new rubber (overnight between sessions).
Do one piece at a time and then wait a couple days for the next, on the A pillar start on the corners.Make sure and pre align the A pillar before glueing anything!!!!!!!
More people mess up the A pillar than any other piece and then blame it on crappy product, instead of crappy installer.
TAKE YOUR TIME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Intermediate
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
From: Clearwater FL
take the sunvisors off and the piece of molding that goes across the top of the windshield (interior plastic) and there are two brackets that the bolts that hold the top down go through. There are two torxs bolts that hold the brackets to the windshield header, I think they are the same size as the top bolts so your top removal tool will work on them. Before loosening them, it is good to mark them so that you know where they were and then slide them up like an 1/8" of an inch. See if you can get the top on, if not, go up a little more...........................
Racer
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 274
Likes: 1
From: San Antonio, TX
Got my done and looks great. I took my time and did one piece at a time waiting a day or two before install the next. Use the tips from here: http://www.corvettemagazine.com/2006...atherstrip.asp
Applies to a C3 but great tips.
BTW I bought mine from lonestarcarparts on ebay. 7 Piece set for $350 and used midamerica weatherstrip tool kit. Couldn't be happier!
Applies to a C3 but great tips.
BTW I bought mine from lonestarcarparts on ebay. 7 Piece set for $350 and used midamerica weatherstrip tool kit. Couldn't be happier!
Pro
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 519
Likes: 22
From: Golden CO
Weatherstrip, C4 roof/pillar piece, that connector - help
I expected to find a screw holding each end of that weatherstrip piece that is the inside of the roof, down each pillar, terminating near the top of the door jam area. Instead, there's this black button looking thing, how does that come out? Do I need to find those new to install the new strip or will it 'pop' out and be reusable?
I guess I'll try going without glue, except maybe at the end where that tight retainer piece stops. But at first no glue at all and see how it all fits etc, and see if I need to adjust my targa.
thanks for all the great tips guys, priceless. I did buy the Willcox version, $99 vs $150 at Eckler or Corvette America and seem like really nice helpful folks there.
I guess I'll try going without glue, except maybe at the end where that tight retainer piece stops. But at first no glue at all and see how it all fits etc, and see if I need to adjust my targa.
thanks for all the great tips guys, priceless. I did buy the Willcox version, $99 vs $150 at Eckler or Corvette America and seem like really nice helpful folks there.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 34,988
Likes: 515
From: Riverside County Southern California
Co-winner 2020 C4 of the Year - Modified
2018 Corvette of Year Finalist
2017 C4 of Year
2016 C7 of Year Finalist
St. Jude Donor '09 thru '20
I started from the center and worked my way out. I engaged the strip along only the more difficult side of the retainer to tuck it into, and then went back afterwards with a paint scraper and to tuck the strip into the easier side without accidentally untucking it from the first. This worked pretty well for me. Make sure you see both sides of each retainer you're supposed to get at as well as any holes for pinning the weatherstrip down.
Here's another tip: I didn't use any weatherstrip glue on any of the strips in my car, and so as I find places where I didn't quite tuck it in to the retainer right, I still have a chance to correct it. Weatherstrip glue is not necessary and makes this job a lot messier and harder.
Here's another tip: I didn't use any weatherstrip glue on any of the strips in my car, and so as I find places where I didn't quite tuck it in to the retainer right, I still have a chance to correct it. Weatherstrip glue is not necessary and makes this job a lot messier and harder.
Take it for what it's worth:
I did my A-pillars / windshield header twice:
Once without thinking it through, and once to fix the resulting crap job...
In retrospect, I now know to start at the CORNERS (top of the A-pillars) and work my way in both directions. Because the corners are where lots of things come together (targa top/window/pillar). Also, the very nature of weather stripping is that it's flexible as hell and tends to over or
under stretch, so it's good to have a baseline from which to start....
The back end was cake...
ALSO: I did all of my weather stripping at once, THEN tried to re-install the targa top. That was one bonafide mother F-er... Freaking, freaking difficult, my friend. If I ever do C4 weatherstripping again, I'll do one bit at a time, then re-install the targa top to let it seat in the new rubber (overnight between sessions).
I did my A-pillars / windshield header twice:
Once without thinking it through, and once to fix the resulting crap job...
In retrospect, I now know to start at the CORNERS (top of the A-pillars) and work my way in both directions. Because the corners are where lots of things come together (targa top/window/pillar). Also, the very nature of weather stripping is that it's flexible as hell and tends to over or
under stretch, so it's good to have a baseline from which to start....
The back end was cake...
ALSO: I did all of my weather stripping at once, THEN tried to re-install the targa top. That was one bonafide mother F-er... Freaking, freaking difficult, my friend. If I ever do C4 weatherstripping again, I'll do one bit at a time, then re-install the targa top to let it seat in the new rubber (overnight between sessions).
I have to ask again...NO Glue?? No problems, no leaks?
Safety Car
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 3,651
Likes: 10
From: Apple Valley MN
I did my A and B pillars a couple weeks ago, and didn't use glue. I haven't had a chance to test for leaks yet, but no problems otherwise. As snugly as it fits in the channels, I'd have a hard time believing that adhesive would make any difference in that regard.
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
From: Franklin TN
I used glue. I did all my strips over the course of a couple of months. I did some starting in the middle, and others starting at the corners. Doing the corners was a lot easier.
End result: my car is quieter and doesn't rain on me.
End result: my car is quieter and doesn't rain on me.