C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

1984 Valve Covers

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Old Mar 14, 2008 | 01:43 AM
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Default 1984 Valve Covers

Just a quick question for those that have experience with 84 valve covers.

I am doing a water pump, I had to loosen the AC compressor, In order to get one bolt out from the back of the AC compressor I had to remove the valve cover.

My question is, Do I need to put the valve cover back on prior to reinstalling the AC compressor?

right now, I have that long rear bolt back in...but as it got late I decided to stop. Now, I am wondering should I wait for the new Valve cover gaskets or go ahead and button up a few things while Kragen gets the Gaskets.
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Old Mar 14, 2008 | 02:45 AM
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I've had that side valve cover off and on before with out touching the ac.
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Old Mar 14, 2008 | 09:21 AM
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Thanks MIke I appreciate the reply.....

This being an '84 is a good filter for those the would normally reply

Last edited by jhammons01; Mar 14, 2008 at 09:58 AM.
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Old Mar 14, 2008 | 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by jhammons01
Thank MIke I appreciate the reply.....

This being an '84 is a good filter for those the would normally reply
Thats just another reason why the 84's are the best year.
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Old Mar 14, 2008 | 01:29 PM
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Yea right.
Previous crossfire vette.
Phase 1:
350 cid, xram, 2.0 TB's, 454 injectors, edel rpm aluminum 64 cc heads, crame 2040 cam 210/216 @.05, crane roller rockers, ceramic hedman 1 5/8 headers, dual exhaust/crossover, hooker aero chambers, 7747. Innovative WB.
Phase 2 10/13/2004:
7.4L TB on Holley TBI manifold(Projection), Summit AC with K & N, Aeromotive FP reg, Comp Cams 224/230 @.05 114 LSA, Innovative input of tps/rpm/map data.
09/2005 fresh paint(red of course)
08/16/2006 added Prominator- 8746 ECU with EBL, IAT sensor being added following week.
05/2007 wired the WB controler to hide in glovebx with a digital A/F analog output gauge(blue)
06/2007 replaced stock wheels with chrome AFS ZR1 17x11 and 17 x 9.5
04/2008 will add a cold air kit with procharger carb bonnet
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Old Mar 14, 2008 | 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Rohn
Yea right.
Previous crossfire vette.
Phase 1:
350 cid, xram, 2.0 TB's, 454 injectors, edel rpm aluminum 64 cc heads, crame 2040 cam 210/216 @.05, crane roller rockers, ceramic hedman 1 5/8 headers, dual exhaust/crossover, hooker aero chambers, 7747. Innovative WB.
Phase 2 10/13/2004:
7.4L TB on Holley TBI manifold(Projection), Summit AC with K & N, Aeromotive FP reg, Comp Cams 224/230 @.05 114 LSA, Innovative input of tps/rpm/map data.
09/2005 fresh paint(red of course)
08/16/2006 added Prominator- 8746 ECU with EBL, IAT sensor being added following week.
05/2007 wired the WB controler to hide in glovebx with a digital A/F analog output gauge(blue)
06/2007 replaced stock wheels with chrome AFS ZR1 17x11 and 17 x 9.5
04/2008 will add a cold air kit with procharger carb bonnet
So......does this mean you can put the Valve Cover on after you get the AC compressor installed?!?!?!?!
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Old Mar 14, 2008 | 06:41 PM
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Valve cover gaskets.....

Silicone/Blue RTV or just put them on dry??
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Old Mar 14, 2008 | 07:36 PM
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I glue the gaskets to the valve covers so they don't slip out of place while I get the covers situated. I put a bead of the "Right Stuff" on the thoroughly degreased valve cover gasket surface and then, time permitting, put a weight on the valve covers for overnight. Then, just before I am ready to put the vc in place, I use lacquer thinner or acetone to remove all traces of oil from the gasket surface of the head.

Now that it's too late. I should mention that I don't think you had to mess with that rear facing bolt or remove the valve cover to replace the water pump. If memory serves me, once you get the brace from the top of the compressor removed from the intake manifold and the the other brace removed from the exhaust manifold stud, the only thing holding the compressor, with bracket, to the engine is the two water pump studs. Once you get the nuts off of the two right side water pump studs, the bracket, with compressor slides forward and out of the way. If I remember correctly.

RACE ON!!!
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Old Mar 14, 2008 | 08:49 PM
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well........a bit late but thanks.

you said two things

A) Yes I used a small amount of Blue RTV between the VCG and VC. I let it sit until it got tacky, but fearing that it would dry with a Void, I put it on. The VCG held tight like you suggested.

B) That Bolt wouldn't wriggle free. and Yes I had both of those bolts down on the water pump loose. I couldn't get the whole assembly to move up high enough for the bolt to fit in that channel between the VC and intake. Plus I was scratching the crap out of the VC trying to do this. The Two fuel lines that run up through that mounting bracket were thwarting my every move as well.

Took off the VC and got the bolt out, then the Mounting bracket nearly fell out on its own......isn't that the way it always happens??

CFI, sincere thank you for your hand in this.

I got it all buttoned up and took it for a test run already. No leaks and it stayed between 185-193 for the short run around the block.

I changed out the thermostat to a 180°F because on cool days the OD would drop out due the temps dropping below 160°F while on the freeway.

New Water Pump, new Smog Pump, new thermostat, new Valve Cover gaskets, flushed radiator, New Hoses,

They bury that damn Water Pump....it is not easy swapping that one.

Last edited by jhammons01; Mar 14, 2008 at 10:36 PM.
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Old Mar 15, 2008 | 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by jhammons01
well........a bit late but thanks.

B) That Bolt wouldn't wriggle free. and Yes I had both of those bolts down on the water pump loose. I couldn't get the whole assembly to move up high enough for the bolt to fit in that channel between the VC and intake. Plus I was scratching the crap out of the VC trying to do this. The Two fuel lines that run up through that mounting bracket were thwarting my every move as well.
I realize it is too late. Sorry, but I think you missed my point. If my memory serves me, you don't have to touch the bolt you removed the valve cover to remove. Leave the compressor attached to the compressor bracket and with the braces to the manifolds removed, the compressor bracket with compressor will slide off the water pump studs after the nuts are removed. The bolt that threads into the compressor bracket and removes to the rear doesn't even have to be loosened. It holds the compressor into the compressor bracket and I'm saying they can be removed together as a unit.



Originally Posted by jhammons01
I changed out the thermostat to a 180°F because on cool days the OD would drop out due the temps dropping below 160°F while on the freeway.
Good move. A 160° thermostat is too low for a Gen I engine.

RACE ON!!!
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