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Wondering if anyone has had their injectors "blue-printed" by TPIS and if it was worth it.........or, have you purchased the Accel injectors advertised by Mid America and done the same thing?
Not sure what they mean by "blue printing" but if they mean balancing the set I got from RC Engineering were balanced within 0.3% for flow.
The 90 only uses on O2 sensor so the entire fuel control from the ECM is based this one sensor. How well this works is dependent on the balance between the drivers side and the passenger side. I found that the engine ran much better with the new injectors and their balance will make the control more precise.
He'll recondition and flow test them for $80 and blue print for an additinal fee (he did a set for me that flowed to within +/-1%). He has a quick turnaround and does a fine job.
I'm pretty sure what TPIS is calling "blue printing" means balancing the flow so that all are flowing the same (or as close as they can get). TPIS wants $15 an injector for what he terms "cleaning" (I imagine that's flow testing).....and then wants $25 each for blueprinting.....
65Z01, was there any difference you could tell from the time you had them in car versus the flow tested, etc., ones when you reinstalled?
I bought a set of used Vette (22#) injectors for IROC to replace the stock 19# units. Before installing the Vette injectors I sent them to Rich; after cleaning & rebuilding they flowed to 1% so no further work was required. But he has the blue-print serivce if there is any spread in flows.
I don't know about anyone else on the forum but my experience with the Accel Injectors was a bad one. Just installed new 30# Accel's on my 383 with SR and ended up having to pull the SR and fuel rails because of 6 leaking injectors. Could not hold fuel pressure and sooted up my engine after the car was together because of those injectors. A bit of advice, check your injectors for leaks just sitting on the manifold before going to the trouble of installing the everything else. Wow, 6 of 8 brand new injectors leaking, that's ridiculous. I'm going with FMS #30's this week. JMOH
Might want to also check out RC Engineering. These injectors are very precise and stainless steel inside. They are tightly balanced too. Give them a call.
Mark, that's one nice motor sitting in your car....man, it's pretty....can't make out what's going on in the square you have highlighted.....but damn, it's pretty........
Kinda off topic but......ever since I installed Accel 26lb injectors, I've been having trouble. Before I knock them, I will burn a new chip taking into consideration the 4lb diff between stock and these. You might have something there Mark....
I first went with an off brand matched set. Then after the motor was together, half of them (4) were bad, so I returned them. Then I got 8 ACCEL 24 pounders and couldnt be happier. They all worked right outta the box.
Did you have your chip burned knowing you had 24lbers, SR and other mods(before or after?)? Reading your sig and see the new zz4 motor. What is the CID on that unit? Your answer might help shed light on my situation. Thanx!
Thanks WHRITZY, the square was to show the air entry box (radiator shroud) seal for the crossfire hood ductwork for another topic. Thanks for the comments. Wish I had a better camera though.
I guess I don't believe all Accel Injectors are bad, in my case I didn't install them for 4 months and I couldn't send them back then. So it really was a bad deal for me.
I installed some 23# Accels back in March, and they seem to work okay, but in truth I'm not sure how to tell if I have any leaking injectors. Can someone post some indicators on how to check?
[QUOTE]I installed some 23# Accels back in March, and they seem to work okay, but in truth I'm not sure how to tell if I have any leaking injectors. Can someone post some indicators on how to check?
Thanks,
Hook up a Fuel Pressure Gauge. Turn on the ignition. Pressure should be about 38 to 43 lbs and hold. If it doesn't hold, clamp the rubber part of the fuel inlet hose with some vise grips (wrap the hose with a shop towel so that you don't damage it). If pressure holds, the fuel pump is bad. If pressure doesn't hold, clamp the rubber return line. If pressure holds, the fuel pressure regulator is bad. If pressure doesn't hold an injector(s) is leaking. If an injector is leaking, remove all that is necessary to access the fuel rail. Unbolt and lift the rail with the injectors out of their bosses. Repressurize and you should see the leaking injector(s)