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I want to see any one that has c4 that only weighs 2600, remove all you want by then time you get all the braces and cages in you just added a ton back.
I think that is like 600 lbs shed or maybe more. no way it would ever see the road again legally.
I'm always looking for more weight to lose. Interior gutting is almost complete, have to start looking for more.
Like BSP posted, ours is auto-x only and we open the hood a lot betwen runs. Having to remove it and lay it on the ground would be a hassle. I'd worry about some clown stepping on it. And carrying it in and out of the trailer all the time to protect it would really be a pain.
Like BSP we pulled the headlights and put just the covers back in place. The headlight assemblies were pretty heavy and way out front. And we did the hood pins. I wonder how much of the hood bracing can come out without cracking the fiberglass?
On a related note, does anyone make a carbon fiber or even thin fiberglass targa top?
wrong, BTDT...can be done ez at room temp, using a wood chisel, couple of screwdrivers, and a hammer...MUST keep the chisel parallel to the surface, aimed at the oem glue joint (don't 'aim' to break thru outer finished surface or you will) , insert screwdrivers to hold joint open and under strain as you go, don't get 'greedy' ( bond will separate from tension after start of work, allow time for reaction)...i have a DIY chisel i made that lays flat on work, makes it easier/faster where flat is accessible
This is great. How flexible was the hood when you were finished? Do you think my friend was wrong about stress/spider cracks as well?
I can't believe I've never seen any of your posts before. Anyway, I'm right down the road (near the zoo) and I have a Toledo Pro skin only FG hood that weighs 33 lbs and cost $800. It mounts at the original hinges by the bumper and I use pins at the top.