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Not really. Install the rubber pan end seal and goop it up with the Right Stuff. Stick two Phillips head screw drivers, or appropriate sized rods, through two of the bolt holes, one on each side of the cover, and onto the holes in the block. Push down on the screw driver handles to compress the seal down onto the pan. Once you see it is down far enough, tap the cover onto the dowel pins with your third hand. It will help immensely if you trim the seal trough for clearance with the block as the cover is forced rearward.
like i said before, the old trick is to take a pair of tin snips and cut the corners off of the inside seal rail on the cover. This will not have any effect on the seal doing its job, and it makes the cover fall into place.
like i said before, the old trick is to take a pair of tin snips and cut the corners off of the inside seal rail on the cover. This will not have any effect on the seal doing its job, and it makes the cover fall into place.
Demonic,we had to do the same that Syclone its mentioning here
i bought a PROFORM 2 piece cover that had clearance issues with the water pump to fit,they doesnt care...i have contacted them and they still list the 1987 Corvette for their product and they didn't write back http://www.proformparts.com/mistore/...947d815d9fe9d9
PROFORM PARTS SUCKS !!!!!
Back on topic,we took the cover out and we needed to put the stock in ....but ..the pan was the problem,to put the cover back in we had to cut the inner lip,and yes,it supposed to be OK on the sealing effect,the PAN Lip was really sealed and we put there a lot of sealant too,so im hoping for it to be OK,but that was the only way.-
Good luck with the cover!
I cut the corners off on each side of the inner lip, but that doesnt seem to be the problem. I put the bottom end in first (all covered in RTV) and I hold onto the bottom of the cover while trying to push the top on but the bottom pops right back out. I dont understand what part of the rubber seal i'm supposed to be trimming???
I'll pay somebody and buy them a case of beer or whatever if they come over and do it for me
ok, got the cover on there, dont ask me how. I would say sheer willpower and a hammer
The bottom is fully seated in the pan, all the bolts are in and tightened, only one problem. You know those 2 dowel pins sticking out of the block? The one on the left is sticking out about 1/4" like its supposed to, the right side is barely sticking out at all. Obviously that side isnt fully seated and its going to leak
I've been beating on it with a screwdriver and a hammer, no good. Any good ideas to get it on there?
You may want to inspect you cover carefully to make sure it doesn't leak since the sealing surface can get ruined if you are not careful when you pry on it, first time I've ever heard of doing this proceedure without loosening some of the oil pan bolts but hey it it works why not. If you can't get it in try loosening some of the oil pan bolts.
Last edited by Car Guy 88; Apr 23, 2008 at 07:48 PM.
I tried loosening all of the bolts on that side and beating it with a hammer but it still wouldnt slide all the way down on the dowel pin. I thought about just putting some extra RTV around the edge to make sure no oil gets out, but it doesnt sound like a sound idea.
It doesn't sound like a good idea ...at all
try to take it out again,yes again,cut all of the inner lip
and put lots of rtv and align it again and put it there
that pin has to be IN,if you leave it out ,its open
at least i consider it OPEN !
I tried loosening all of the bolts on that side and beating it with a hammer but it still wouldnt slide all the way down on the dowel pin. I thought about just putting some extra RTV around the edge to make sure no oil gets out, but it doesnt sound like a sound idea.
OK....this probably isn't what you want to hear, and some (possibly many) will disagree...but here's what I would do.
Pull your timing cover off and replace it with a new one. A factory one, not the chrome jobbie. Lower the oil pan down, install your new timing cover, reinstall your pan with the one piece Fel Pro rubber gasket, and rest assured that it's done right and won't leak.
Here's why I say all this...Speaking from experience, removing the timing cover on a SBC is easy....getting to it on a C4 is a bitch. Having to take the car back apart a second time to redo it would suck. Better to make sure it's right while it's all easy to get to.
If you're contemplating having to glob on the RTV, something isn't right. I suspect you distorted the cover prying on it to remove it. Now is the time to fix it, before you have to spend 4 hours pulling it back apart to repair a copious oil leak.
OK....this probably isn't what you want to hear, and some (possibly many) will disagree...but here's what I would do.
Pull your timing cover off and replace it with a new one. A factory one, not the chrome jobbie. Lower the oil pan down, install your new timing cover, reinstall your pan with the one piece Fel Pro rubber gasket, and rest assured that it's done right and won't leak.
Here's why I say all this...Speaking from experience, removing the timing cover on a SBC is easy....getting to it on a C4 is a bitch. Having to take the car back apart a second time to redo it would suck. Better to make sure it's right while it's all easy to get to.
If you're contemplating having to glob on the RTV, something isn't right. I suspect you distorted the cover prying on it to remove it. Now is the time to fix it, before you have to spend 4 hours pulling it back apart to repair a copious oil leak.
Good luck with it.
He is right
i made the horrible mistake on buy the chromy chromy stupid
PROFORM Cover,and that's a lesson learned.-
on the C4's the timing cover its nowhere to be seen..but i wanted it anyway...i didnt remember how hidden it was till i put the engine back in the car ...oggg!
ok, got the cover on there, dont ask me how. I would say sheer willpower and a hammer
Shut your hood and walk away. Pronto.
They meant trim the corner on the timing cover, not the seal. Did that years ago and even with that it was a bitch getting it lined back up. If you bent the cover youre
Next time drop the pan down a bit. Sometimes these go right into place, and other times they can be stubborn like yours is.
They meant trim the corner on the timing cover, not the seal. Did that years ago and even with that it was a bitch getting it lined back up. If you bent the cover youre
Next time drop the pan down a bit. Sometimes these go right into place, and other times they can be stubborn like yours is.
Been there,done that !
but i was lucky mine was back in easily...but i had to totally remove the inner lip.
the cover fought some minutes to stay out of its position...but we finally came to an agreement hehe -:o
OK....this probably isn't what you want to hear, and some (possibly many) will disagree...but here's what I would do.
Pull your timing cover off and replace it with a new one. A factory one, not the chrome jobbie. Lower the oil pan down, install your new timing cover, reinstall your pan with the one piece Fel Pro rubber gasket, and rest assured that it's done right and won't leak.
Here's why I say all this...Speaking from experience, removing the timing cover on a SBC is easy....getting to it on a C4 is a bitch. Having to take the car back apart a second time to redo it would suck. Better to make sure it's right while it's all easy to get to.
If you're contemplating having to glob on the RTV, something isn't right. I suspect you distorted the cover prying on it to remove it. Now is the time to fix it, before you have to spend 4 hours pulling it back apart to repair a copious oil leak.
Thats why i'm not going to. I'll continue beating it on before I take it off. Honestly I think I would rather weld it on and just buy a new motor later on. The truth is that it's not bent and its sealed all the way around except for that little area around the dowel pin on the left side.
Does the LSx engines have this crappy design flaw as well?