C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

electric waterpump ???

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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 03:55 PM
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Default electric waterpump ???

Stupid question.....Is this just a drag racing option, I saw a show this weekend that was doing dyno runs of different bolt on items for the small block 350. They changed from a regular water pump to an electric and went from 296 HP to 334 HP !!!! If a street car can operate okay with this (and its a honest gain) why is this the first time I've ever seen anything about it. Seems like I'm missing something
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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 04:00 PM
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I doubt that an electric water pump upgrade will produce that much gain in horsepower. I have one and it should improve it some, but not that much. Maybe 10-12 at high rpms.
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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 04:12 PM
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Are we talking rwhp? If so, 10-12 sounds more along the lines of what I've heard.
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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 04:25 PM
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I've heard that on an LT1 the electric pump is 7 hp. However, I don't believe it, not have I seen dyno graphs to prove it.

You're reducing drag on the motor but adding drag on the alternator, which then increases drag on the motor...zero net gain.

There are other reasons to get an electric pump, I have one on my car, but HP is not one of them.
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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 04:30 PM
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There are other reasons to get an electric pump, I have one on my car, but HP is not one of them.[/QUOTE]

Curious, what reasons?
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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by aminnich
There are other reasons to get an electric pump, I have one on my car, but HP is not one of them.
Curious, what reasons?
Here's something from another thread on the same subject:

Originally Posted by Strick
I'm one of the guys that went with the Meziere HD coolant pump. Here's why:
1) You eliminate the water leak when the OEM pump goes bad.
2) You eliminate the possible oil leak from the coolant pump shaft seal in the timing chain cover.
3) It provides a constant flow of coolant whether at idle or WOT.
4) If you want to cool down your motor without the engine running, just turn your key on and the coolant keeps flowing. Couple that with a manual switch to run your fans and you'l cool down your motor between runs at the track.
5) If horsepower numbers are your thing, the electric pump frees up a few ponies.
6) If you ever have to replace it, it only takes 30 minutes or so.
7) It is so easy to get the air out of the system when changing your coolant. Just turn the key on and the air will show up at the refill inlet.
8) Your Opti will not get soaked when the OEM fails.
9) In traffic, it keeps a better flow for cooling in the summer.

The guys that are affraid of the electric pump worry about it failing and you're stuck. The pump is designed to last for 2500 hours. Do the math, that's longer than the average OEM pump.

It must be uncomfortable on that fence.
FWIW...I'm putting one in my LT4 this week.

Last edited by JEFNLSA; Apr 28, 2008 at 05:08 PM.
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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by JEFNLSA
FWIW...I'm putting one in my LT4 this week.
Maybe this will help somone on the install.

http://www.projecttransam.com/projects9.asp







Here's another dyno.

http://www.ws6.com/mod-14.htm

Last edited by rickneworleansla; Apr 28, 2008 at 06:24 PM.
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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by ScaryFast
You're reducing drag on the motor but adding drag on the alternator, which then increases drag on the motor...zero net gain.
.
Not the same amount of drag. Producing electricity is much more efficient, especially at high rpms.
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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 08:35 PM
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EWP is more efficient due to it operates at one speed so the impeller can be optimized for that speed vice the wide operation range of the engine driven one.
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by aminnich
Curious, what reasons?
Most of them were listed by Strick (via Jeff) above, I would add one more - coolant flush or removal. I just did another optispark replacement and instead of dumping coolant all over my garage floor for the 10th time all I have to do is unplug an outlet hose, stick it in a bucket, and run the pump. Once it's just sucking air I usually pour in some water to continue the flush. When I pull the pump off and what's left dumps out, it's just water instead of coolant.

Originally Posted by Strick
Not the same amount of drag. Producing electricity is much more efficient, especially at high rpms.
More than you'd think. I've had this discussion on here before and it tends to get quite heated, so I'm not going to get into it again. However, it's a common misconception that in this comparison the drag on your alternator is less than on the motor. I'm not going to dig up the data so feel free to discount my post, but electricity is absolutely not free. Keep in mind that an alternator is, in fact, a mechanical system with brushes running across a copper winding. There is mechanical drag there, too.
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by rickreeves1
Maybe this will help somone on the install.

http://www.projecttransam.com/projects9.asp







Here's another dyno.

http://www.ws6.com/mod-14.htm
Thx man, good info.
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 11:06 AM
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Have you an 86?
If yes i think it's very difficult to install on a L98.
Lt1 are almost "bolt on".
Not on L98.
-Beppe-
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by ScaryFast
Most of them were listed by Strick (via Jeff) above, I would add one more - coolant flush or removal. I just did another optispark replacement and instead of dumping coolant all over my garage floor for the 10th time all I have to do is unplug an outlet hose, stick it in a bucket, and run the pump. Once it's just sucking air I usually pour in some water to continue the flush. When I pull the pump off and what's left dumps out, it's just water instead of coolant.



More than you'd think. I've had this discussion on here before and it tends to get quite heated, so I'm not going to get into it again. However, it's a common misconception that in this comparison the drag on your alternator is less than on the motor. I'm not going to dig up the data so feel free to discount my post, but electricity is absolutely not free. Keep in mind that an alternator is, in fact, a mechanical system with brushes running across a copper winding. There is mechanical drag there, too.


I have to chime in here. I have no scientific data but my alternater will pull the idle down on my 461 when the fans kick in so an alternator will definately put some serious drag on a motor.
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 12:42 PM
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Here's the reason why an ewp adds HP at high RPM: an engine-driven water pump spins faster as the engine spins up, so the load on the engine is proportional to RPM. OTOH, an ewp puts a constant load on the engine, independent of RPM. Look at the two HP curves on the dyno graphs - at low RPM they are nearly identical, but as RPM increases, the difference between them increases. Very good graphical evidence, indeed.
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by MTVette
Here's the reason why an ewp adds HP at high RPM: an engine-driven water pump spins faster as the engine spins up, so the load on the engine is proportional to RPM. OTOH, an ewp puts a constant load on the engine, independent of RPM. Look at the two HP curves on the dyno graphs - at low RPM they are nearly identical, but as RPM increases, the difference between them increases. Very good graphical evidence, indeed.
Well said. This is the point that most people miss!
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 04:36 PM
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Thanks. That's what I do for a living - I'm an engineer.
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by MTVette
Thanks. That's what I do for a living - I'm an engineer.
I thought engineers drove trains.
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