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Hey coyote, just a word of advice. I started draging my vette, stock 84, we only run the 1/8 mile. Started out with a consitant 9.29. Built myself a forced cold air intake, droped to 9.15, added synthetic rear end grease, 9.08, then the big change came when I took out the cat. I live in mobile alabama we are real close to sea level, with an air temp of 45 deg. ran a best 8.62. Ran last night air temp was about 72 ran 8.82 all night long. These are all cheap mods that you can do yourself! Good luck! :seeya
From: Former NCM Drag Racing coordinator, National director Corvette Challenge Spring Hill, Tennessee: Whiting, New Jersey
Cruise-In VI Veteran
Cruise-In VII Veteran
Re: Hypertech can suck my...!!!! (Red96Coupe)
What Beach, and JP said is correct. Please make sure you tell all the conditions before you rate a product. It's only fair to the manufacture and the people how may by it.
Sorry we'll take it easer next time, John :)
Sorry for not supplying enough information about that everybody. I feel loved again!!! :D :D :D I've never rated a product before, but in the future I will be sure to place proper information, statistics, etc. And I will be out at the track BeachBum. And I will bring both the hyptertech and my stock ecm. Sorry I took what you guys said personally also. I made the post not 5 minutes after walking in the door and was still pretty peeved. Plus I had someone waiting for me so I just laid it all out with no other info.
Thanks again for bein' there for me everyone, especially Beach. I'll be in touch.
Have a Merry Christmas! :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
the results speak for themselves. i bought an ADS "Drag Strip Chip", supposedly you HAD to have a 160 degree thermostat and a gutted converter to run this chip. well about a year later i got into burning my own chips, and i looked at the ADS, and the fuel map was the exact same as the stock chip. the timing had been advanced a tad in one little area, but it was only a degree or two. the only other mods were to delay the torque converter lockup and turn the fan on sooner. the chips are pretty much highway robbery.
I cant explain the slower MPH... however you lost .3 tenth in the first 60' & almost 1/2 second by the 330' that is all due to tire spin.. There is NO way a NA car can make up for all that time lost..
Now look at it this way, (we know its not possible) But lets pretend the chip gave you 50-75 MORE HP.. then all that new power caused you to spin, and you now need slicks to harness the power..
However more likely is the track was bad, & you spun, thus slow ET.. with time slips like those. I look no further then the 60' time.. the rest don't matter except for mph.. & the weather can have an effect on your mph.. I have lost or gained 3 mph with the same 60' time.. just the weather..
Let us know how you do next time out.. BTW you sound like you plan on racing a lot.. get a set of Nitto Drag Radial.. they are good on the street even in rain if you take it easy.. and will make all the difference in the world on the track..
Did anyone notice the guys who like the hypertech are either 94 or newer or 84 vettes. Like I said in my earlier post, the 94 and newer can have their computers programed and the 84 will respond to just about anything and get more performance than stock. I haven't seen anyone with 85-93 have real results from the Hypertech boys. You really want to update your ECM and get a power programmer or spend the cash somewhere else with these cars and when you are done with your other mods, then get a custom burned chip to match the mods. You should also get one from a company that will reburn for free depending on future mods. :cheers:
Yeah with your 60 ft being down 3 tenths from the get go.... your et would suffer probably around 5-6 tenths from this with your particular set-up.... however your weak mph indicates more is going on. When was the last time you tuned it up ? Also did you hear any detonation or pinging going down the track ? I know some of those chips will add a little timing and fuel... if your motor doesn't need the fuel in the 1st place, it will typically slow you down a bit. If the timing is advanced to the point the knock sensor picks up knock, typically the ecm will retard your timing back to the point performance is noticably hit hard.
The air was good.... your mph should have been very strong. (Ie temps were in the 50-60 degree all day, and the bar was at 29.9x, but humidity was high at about 80-90%, but the result was still good air due to the cool air.)
I'm betting you were on the knock sensor..... but dunno for sure.
I've not been very impressed with HYPErtech either. One of our club members used the power programmer at the dyno doing back-to-back runs (3 without - 3 with) and lost horsepower across the board. I don't remember how much, but it was pretty significant.
Hypertech gave him his money back. Their programmer is more hype than HP, but you really can't expect it to give you mountains of power. After all they are doing a general program for the "average" mods. The custom PROM is made for exactly what modifications your car has, and so is optimized to get the most out of the motor.
I think Matt's response to them (HyperTech) was they could kiss his butt.
the results speak for themselves. i bought an ADS "Drag Strip Chip", supposedly you HAD to have a 160 degree thermostat and a gutted converter to run this chip. well about a year later i got into burning my own chips, and i looked at the ADS, and the fuel map was the exact same as the stock chip. the timing had been advanced a tad in one little area, but it was only a degree or two. the only other mods were to delay the torque converter lockup and turn the fan on sooner. the chips are pretty much highway robbery.
Let me tell you what robbery is.
I paid $300 for a custom chip from Arizona Speed & Marine a few years back. This was to be for a 355 which was replacing the stock TPI305 in my 92 Camaro. I had all the info from the engine builder and filled out a detailed 2 page questionaire for ASM to order the chip. It covered everything from heads & cam specs to gear ratio, etc.
After the swap the car was just not 100%, driveability was ok at best but the car felt slow.
I fought with the tuning for about a year and it wasen't until after my friend Jeff and I started burning chips when I discovered Arizona Speed & Marine actually gave me a stock 305 chip with the fans turned on earlier. I picked up a stock 350 chip a friend had laying around and the car ran 100 times better. We used that stock 350 chip as a basis and tweeked it a little and the car ran even better.
I'm not suggesting everyone burn thier own chips but I know I will never trust anyone else to do it again unless I am sitting right next to them.
Here's my interpretation, for what ever it's worth. You lost .324 in the 60'. How badly did you spin? Did you spin to the 330'? Each time is slower than the previous time by a greater amount. Did you spin through the whole quarter? My take is that if you hooked up by the 60', then the 1/4 ET should be .324 slower than the previous outing (more or less). If you didn't hook until somewhere after the 60' but before the 330', then the 1/4 should be .426 slower than the 14.68 from last time. Somewhere near a 15.10 to a 15.15. No way the air was any better in June than it was in December. If the increasingly slower ETs don't say it, the mph does. This car is WAY down on power. As little regard as I had for the Hypertech, in MY '84, the chip is NOT the major cause of this performance loss. Traction may be a big factor, But there is more than that going on here. Over the 6 months between runs, maybe the plugs went away. Maybe a rat built a nest inside your air cleaner. The ESC could be a factor, like BeachBum suggested. Did the "check engine" light come on? Did you bend one of the prongs on the chip back, where it didn't get inserted into the socket? In my humble opinion, You have problems other than the chip and the traction. Give it another (fair) shot. My experience showed ME no gain. I don't expect you will see one, either, but one way or another, get your car fixed. This advice is guarenteed. If it doesn't prove to be true...you get double your money back.
Does my critique above make an sense to anyone else? That is how I read his results. Am I full of it? I would appreciate any feed back anyone would care to give. Thanks.
Does my critique above make an sense to anyone else? That is how I read his results. Am I full of it? I would appreciate any feed back anyone would care to give. Thanks.
I agree for the most part.... I think he lost 4-5 tenths total from spin, and the other 3 tenths are lost in his lost power...... he probably just needs a tune-up with new air filter, plugs, wires, cap and rotor, and a return to the stock chip.... but impossible to tell at this point.
The air was probably better on this day of racing than his 14.7 timeslip day.
He was for the most part hooked up before the 60 ft mark, but that .32 lost in the 60 ft undoubtly mulitplied a bit and knocked off another tenth or two due to lost inertia.... but impossible to say, he would have to get his traps back up to where they belong to say for sure.
Thanks for all the input. And yes CFI-EFI, what you said does make sense. But hey! Keep in mind that I look under the hood enough to know if a rats nest wast there! :D :jester I'll be changing the plugs and wires soon hopefully. And I'll probably be getting a refund on that chip, unless I get in the mood to leave it in and give it another go with fresh Rapidfires and 8.5mm wires. They were the Borg Warner Wires afterall. And one was cooked pretty good from sitting on the heat shield of my exhaust manifold. This whole situation is beginning to drive me bonkers though :crazy: . I really just wanna take the chip back. But we'll see, maybe in January the track conditions will be pretty decent again and I'll be able to test it one more time before getting me a refund :yesnod: :rolleyes:
[QUOTE] But hey! Keep in mind that I look under the hood enough to know if a rats nest wast there! :D :jester
I said "INSIDE the air cleaner". I take my filter element out, the first race of the season and don't replace it until racing's over in the fall. But that's just me. Also, I have my oil changed every June, whether it needs it or not.
I would suggest that whenever you get a chance to retest, that you make enough runs to establish a "base line". Only then, pop the Hypertech in and note the differences. This may take several trips (Oh what agony) to the track. Given a fair test, it may actually help you. Don't give up on it until you know for sure.
I just saw a chip that says that it could be good for 0.7 sec. in the quarter. Based on my previous (Hypertech) experience, I want a triple your money back guarentee on THAT baby.
To me. there is nothing more fun than sorting out a new combination. Yea or nay, the fun is in getting the proof. Good luck and have fun.
Did anyone notice the guys who like the hypertech are either 94 or newer or 84 vettes. Like I said in my earlier post, the 94 and newer can have their computers programed and the 84 will respond to just about anything and get more performance than stock.
True. I also had great results from the HPPIII on my '95 LT1, along woth the 160' thermostat, nearly a 4/10 improvement! :yesnod: :chevy :flag
I liked the "firmer shifts" option in one of my old cars we used the Hypertech in (auto tranny)...everytime the car would shift it felt like you were being launched forward...basically like a shift kit. Just thought I'd share that ;)
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