C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Headlight chime won't go off???

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Old May 6, 2008 | 02:01 AM
  #1  
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Default Headlight chime won't go off???

86 corvette, The headlight chime will not go off when the lights are on, parking or headlights car is running with the doors closed. Chime is also on when key is on not running, doors open like it should be. Also the interior lights stay on for atleast a minute or longer. The door open light on the dash is off. Help, this is annoying.... Thanks,
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Old May 6, 2008 | 07:17 AM
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http://members.shaw.ca/agent86/Chimes.pdf
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Old May 6, 2008 | 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by MilesHenry
86 corvette, The headlight chime will not go off when the lights are on, parking or headlights car is running with the doors closed. Chime is also on when key is on not running, doors open like it should be. Also the interior lights stay on for atleast a minute or longer. The door open light on the dash is off. Help, this is annoying.... Thanks,
Nothing of substance to add....
Just saw this post and thought....WOW, that must suck

Sorry...couldn't resist
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Old May 6, 2008 | 12:54 PM
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Thanks Agent 86
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Old May 10, 2008 | 08:56 AM
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This is almost always a blown GAUGES Fuse.

Last edited by Ray Quayle; Mar 2, 2011 at 06:54 PM.
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Old May 10, 2008 | 02:48 PM
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^^Zactly.....Mine was blown but it was one of those time the fuse being blown was not readily visible......
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Old May 25, 2011 | 04:39 PM
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Default gauges fuse

Originally Posted by Ray Quayle
This is almost always a blown GAUGES Fuse.
Thanks for your info you were right but here is the wierd part, the gauges all work fine, but when the chiming started I also got a antilock brake light and I lost lockup.I replaced the fuse and found it had a 20A fuse where a 10A should have been.The new 10A blew right away so I traced the circut with a wiring diagram and found it fed the lockup silonoid. Dropped the pan and found an aftermarket LU solonoid.Factory says it must read more than 20 ohms,it was 21.3 I felt that was borderline so I replaced it with a used factory solonoid I cleaned up, that one measured 24.4. Installed it, no nore chiming, no antilock light,and lockup is back. Thanks for the tip as Im an ASE certified master tech. but a vette newbee, please pass this along to others.
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Old Nov 13, 2011 | 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by AGENT 86
Unfortunately this is a bad link.
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Old Nov 13, 2011 | 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Mtn Billy
Unfortunately this is a bad link.
It might not have been 3 1/2 years ago when he posted it.
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Old Nov 13, 2011 | 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by RollaMo-LT4
It might not have been 3 1/2 years ago when he posted it.
Oops, sorry My mistake. I misread the dates.
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Old Sep 23, 2014 | 05:19 PM
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Default Trying to solve my problem which is similar to yours

Originally Posted by drkhorse5
Thanks for your info you were right but here is the wierd part, the gauges all work fine, but when the chiming started I also got a antilock brake light and I lost lockup.I replaced the fuse and found it had a 20A fuse where a 10A should have been.The new 10A blew right away so I traced the circut with a wiring diagram and found it fed the lockup silonoid. Dropped the pan and found an aftermarket LU solonoid.Factory says it must read more than 20 ohms,it was 21.3 I felt that was borderline so I replaced it with a used factory solonoid I cleaned up, that one measured 24.4. Installed it, no nore chiming, no antilock light,and lockup is back. Thanks for the tip as Im an ASE certified master tech. but a vette newbee, please pass this along to others.
drkhorse5: My 86 has a similar problem and I too am trying to trace the short that's causing several problems:
1. 10A gauges fuse keeps blowing out, knocking out ABS system as that's when I first realized there was a short somewhere when the ABS warning light came on and stays on.
Some have posted that it could be from dirt and grime getting into the ABS sensors. I checked both front sensors and they were fine. I have not checked back sensors and seeing the make up of their placement, it is next to impossible for dirt to get in there as the rear hubs are sealed. Besides, and please correct me if I'm wrong. The sensors are magnetized and can only send information to the ABS computer. Even though there are two wires to the sensors. There is no isolation of the circuit as the tip of the sensor and its casing come into contact with one another.
2. Now my door-headlight-seat belt chime continues ringing when I turn the headlights on; even after I've buckled the seat belt and both doors are closed. The chime will even ring when the car is turned off and the key is out of the ignition switch. It'll even start ringing when I turn the headlight switch to the parking mode.
3. This alarm chime started doing this after my initial problem with the 10A fuse problem. I've stopped trying to replace the fuse as it blows out every time. Once it lasted for about a week before it blew out. And also without that fuse, my AC-heater control unit doesn't work because that fuse link also provides power to the unit.
Could there be a short in the AC-heater unit?

In your reply you state: "it fed the lockup solenoid. Dropped the pan and found an aftermarket LU solenoid."

When you say you dropped the pan, what pan are you referring to, is yours an 86 or is it another model year and is it stick or auto?
Mine is a 4+3.

Thanks,

George
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