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Now I understand what you're getting at. You're the 1st to ask about the welds vs. configuration of the expander. I agree with you, If the expander was integral w/ the collector with the welds after, in the 3" section, it might flow better. But I'll bet it's never occurred to the builder of these headers either. That's a good idea as the collector would open up into the expander and then the flange would then be 3" to match up to a 3" exhaust.
You are also correct in thinking the weld may be a little over done. As I said in one of the previous posts, I may decide to take a die grinder and hi-temp paint to the weld to knock it down and smoooooth it out.
Now I understand what you're getting at. You're the 1st to ask about the welds vs. configuration of the expander. I agree with you, If the expander was integral w/ the collector with the welds after, in the 3" section, it might flow better. But I'll bet it's never occurred to the builder of these headers either. That's a good idea as the collector would open up into the expander and then the flange would then be 3" to match up to a 3" exhaust.
You are also correct in thinking the weld may be a little over done. As I said in one of the previous posts, I may decide to take a die grinder and hi-temp paint to the weld to knock it down and smoooooth it out.
obviously the link vs the vete tech is not even a reasonable comparison, however worth a look
look at the expander in the link
i cant for the life of me figure why vette tech would put the flange before the collector opens up to 3inch
I think I understand how you feel, but one option would be to buy them uncoated, and when you get them, remove the 3-bolt junction of the collector/expander and have them welded the way you want them. I don't think I'd ask Brian to make them that way, 'cause he ain't Burger King and special orders DO upset things. I think one reason it took so long to get mine is the smog hookups. He told me most all that he sells
go out w/out the smog parts. When I told him I wanted them, he told me it'd be an "extra day or so".
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Originally Posted by OMINOUS_87
i cant for the life of me figure why vette tech would put the flange before the collector opens up to 3inch
Uhhhhh.... how about for those who don't run 3" exhaust! The 1 5/8" headers are for "smaller" motors. It's been a while since I looked at pipe sizing websites, but I believe 2 1/2" exhaust is good to 300+ hp.
Check how the 1 3/4" headers are made.
Last edited by GREGGPENN; May 21, 2008 at 01:49 AM.
people normally step up the size in 4-2-1 over in the 4cyl world where this design is beyond popular. in other words a 1-5/8" 4-1 header would be tested against a 4-2-1 design in 1-3/4" the increase in torque you gain allows the increase in tubing which of course promotes the top end HP. There are pretty large differences on your typical 100hp per litre daily driving 4 banger depending on tubing length, size and shape. we really need to see a few of these used on various levels of motor and tested against a baseline like headman or hooker in order to really say what this header will do. till then it's all bench racing.
Uhhhhh.... how about for those who don't run 3" exhaust! The 1 5/8" headers are for "smaller" motors. It's been a while since I looked at pipe sizing websites, but I believe 2 1/2" exhaust is good to 300+ hp.
Uhhhhh.... how about for those who don't run 3" exhaust! The 1 5/8" headers are for "smaller" motors. It's been a while since I looked at pipe sizing websites, but I believe 2 1/2" exhaust is good to 300+ hp.
Check how the 1 3/4" headers are made.
Single 2 1/2" you mean. I know a LOT of guys with 500hp low 11 second cars with 2" exhaust (dual), and an equal amount of guys with single 3" running just as fast.
I called Brian weeks ago to see if he would sell them uncoated & was told NO. I wanted to add 02 bungs for my Innovate box and make the headers a slip fit not flanged end. If someone knows where to buy these uncoated, hows about posting that info, I'm interested.
I called Brian weeks ago to see if he would sell them uncoated & was told NO. I wanted to add 02 bungs for my Innovate box and make the headers a slip fit not flanged end. If someone knows where to buy these uncoated, hows about posting that info, I'm interested.
You learn something new everyday. When I bought mine I opted for the coating even tho it'd take, "an extra few days".
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Originally Posted by metal tech
I called Brian weeks ago to see if he would sell them uncoated & was told NO. I wanted to add 02 bungs for my Innovate box and make the headers a slip fit not flanged end. If someone knows where to buy these uncoated, hows about posting that info, I'm interested.
Maybe you called after this batch was sent to Jet-Hot? (He told me it went to them around the last week in March.) Maybe you could get them uncoated on the next go-around?
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (appearance mods)
C4 of Year Winner (appearance mods) 2019
Originally Posted by corvette_bob
Global reply? I don't know either way. I just know I was able to ask for the coating or leave it off. Same w/ the smog fittings.
Bobby, Bobby, Bobby..... I was asking "metal tech" to be more persistent! Don't take the first no as Brian's final answer. Maybe he was thinking he (metal tech) wanted to get a non-coated set on this batch? (Global reply is code for "final answer").
Maybe the no was based on his inability to retrieve a set already sent for coating. Hey, if he's communicating honestly, it took nearly 2 mos for the headers to get thru the coating house. Maybe he would have "lost his place in line"....
Your reply above should provide extra incentive for him to ask again!
GP, No I had called way back in late Feb early March timeframe. Brian told me he doesn't sell them uncoated. I wasn't looking to get them cheaper, just trying to get a product that I could make some mods to w/o the coating causing issues w/welding extra bungs on. I also prefer a different coating mfg than JetHot, it's a personal experience issue.
Well guys, I started the install last night. After I removed the front Y, I took out the driver side manifold. Easy enough. I grabbed the appropriate header and began the attempt from under the car. With my car resting on it's wheels 10-1/2" up, I quickly found I was too low. I put the jack under the front and got about 4 or 5 more inches. Still too tight. Height was no longer the problem. Then it hit me, try from the top. It worked. You need to remove the upper steering sector shaft, but with a little coaxing, it slid right in. BTW, you'll also need to temporarily remove the curved brake line heat shield(along the frame). It comes out with two 10mm screws and goes back in easier than I thought it would. That's all for now, it looks like I'm gonna have to rotate my oil cooler adapter towards the block a little so the rubber water lines won't be in contact w/ the header.
I received mine yesterday as well. Nice looking pieces, I was considering cutting off the three bolt flange in order to convert them to a slip fit connection but decided otherwise; just need to find a decent set of gaskets. Any recommendations? All welds looked very good, other than the joy of installation I think these will work very well in my set-up. I dropped them off the same day at my powder-coater, I want mine black.