Vette Tech Tri-Y Status?





Tom,
Thanks for pics of your fix!
Bob,
I thought it took quite awhile for the headers to get thru Jet-Hot (1st time around), but we can hope!





Cut the #2 tube loose from at the head flange. Make another cut to remove 1/2" of the tube. Smooth old welds. Re-weld to the flange (heating pipe if necessary -- to get shortened #2 tube to bend back over to the flange). Have re-coated by Jet-Hot.
Could there be issues with recoating? Could a second coat be a good thing and lower outside temps?
Should I just ask for a completely new set (avoiding potential issues from an alteration)?
Steven
All the way back is pretty spooky, and gets close, but then you would ding it in a slightly different place, if that where your situation.
3/8" did it, though.
With a fresh mount, it may be better, but the car only has 80,000 easy miles on it. Never been raced.
I'm told a good solid piece of hardwood works as well, to just flatten.
Metal to metal should be avoided if possible. Worry's about welds.
Now round #4 The Exhaust!.





3/8" did it, though.
(Probably won't help to ask how many if different thickness shims are in play).
I'm curious cause my car was tweaked by a '67 Mustang in 2001. (Low-speed T-bone on the front, left wheel). Killed the stang. Mine needed a bumper, hood, straightening of the control-arm mount, and a re-alignment.
It's the main reason I have updated bumpers, sidepipes, and the hood!
edit:
I'm curious if this changed things in my engine compartment. If you have a chance, try sticking a straight edge in there. check the distance from the head to the C-arm.
Last edited by GREGGPENN; Jun 27, 2008 at 04:37 PM.





I look at the rear shims last night and I'm pretty sure there was about 7/16" of shims on mine.
That might explain why Steven says more room is needed than you indicated. I thought the difference you guys were reporting was the difference between LT1/L98 -- including his larger tube size.
DAAAAHHHHUUUUUUMMMMMM!
I might need the 3/8" (that you did) + 1/2" (due to less shims on my car) = 7/8"!
Or I need a forth alignment!!! (It tood 3 times and two alignment shops after the bang-up, before it felt right).
----------------------------
Could the correct fix -- to #2 tube -- be to: leave a 4" initial extension, send the #2 primary straight back, and then down to the secondaries (vs. shortening the 1" or more straight out of the head)?
Would this head over the control arm?
What change are you requesting, Steven?
gp
Last edited by GREGGPENN; Jun 27, 2008 at 04:38 PM.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
I look at the rear shims last night and I'm pretty sure there was about 7/16" of shims on mine.
That might explain why Steven says more room is needed than you indicated. I thought the difference you guys were reporting was the difference between LT1/L98 -- including his larger tube size.
DAAAAHHHHUUUUUUMMMMMM!
I might need the 3/8" (that you did) + 1/2" (due to less shims on my car) = 7/8"!
Or I need a forth alignment!!! (It tood 3 times and two alignment shops after the bang-up, before it felt right).
----------------------------
Could the correct fix -- to #2 tube -- be to: leave a 4" initial extension, send the #2 primary straight back, and then down to the secondaries (vs. shortening the 1" or more straight out of the head)?
Would this head over the control arm?
What change are you requesting, Steven?
gp
FYI: I have 1-3/4" tubes .
I don't think there was a geometry change between the L98 and LT1 suspension? ........ Could have been, though?
If you are going to "Go-A-Banging" I'd say do it slowly and progressively.





FYI: I have 1-3/4" tubes .
I don't think there was a geometry change between the L98 and LT1 suspension? ........ Could have been, though?
If you are going to "Go-A-Banging" I'd say do it slowly and progressively.
Besides thinking Brian needs to bend/redo #2, I'm thinking about a change to 1 3/4" too. I was originally convinced that 1 5/8" was "the" size for 350 motors -- even after I do heads/cam. Now I've found where Vizzard says to base size on head flow. 1 3/4" looks better for ported or aftermarket flow. But, I'm sure it depends on where you want improvement in rpm band... bigger/high, smaller/low.
What mods you got?
The top passenger A Arm BACK bolt is 11/32" Shimmed , The front is 33/64" Not exactly a good guess Huh?
Mods are mild; Hyper tech Thermo Chip, B&M shift kit, K&N filter, some Knock of Flow masters clones & High Flow cat.
Will be installing TPIS fuel pressure regulator @ 43 Lbs.and a set of Bosch 22 LB injectors.
I have a set of those TPIS Siamese'd Intake runners that randall is supposed to cough up ??
All in all I'm hoping to produce about 380 Ft. Lbs and 325 Hp. The HP is probably optimistic, but I think the torque will be there.
Short of Heads and a cam. That's probably the best it will get.
TJM
So lets see how this works out. He also added that when I get it back it would be recoated and look like new.
Steven





I'd probably ask if they could get 1" to be safe (since I'll keep shims).
Steven, maybe 1 1/2" for you?
Tom, consensus here is 300hp tops -- w/o cam/headers. But, I'm anxious to here how you like the headers! Any thoughts on drive day?
My bender wont do a job I'm satisfied with.
I want to do it as right a possible, so I'm guessing , with screwing it up at least once, Mid July is reasonable target to see how she does.
It's a toy, and work before pleasure.





I heard Todd made it by to look at what we got. Sounds like he likes.... Todd mentioned you think the 1 5/8" versions are longer than the 1 3/4" versions (like Tom and Steven bought)?
Based on the pics Tom and Steven posted I didn't think that. Are you sure? Can you pic the one you have installed (from underneath) and/or measure to the rear compartment floorboard? From what I measured, I'm thinking my 1 5/8" set will end up like the ones pictured in this thread.
GP
I heard Todd made it by to look at what we got. Sounds like he likes.... Todd mentioned you think the 1 5/8" versions are longer than the 1 3/4" versions (like Tom and Steven bought)?
Based on the pics Tom and Steven posted I didn't think that. Are you sure? Can you pic the one you have installed (from underneath) and/or measure to the rear compartment floorboard? From what I measured, I'm thinking my 1 5/8" set will end up like the ones pictured in this thread.
GP





I knew I could get you to take a pic -- if I tried hard enough!
Throw in a pic of the top-side and/or motor too! Might as well show it off!!!
BTW: Was this the first time you met Todd? Was he a PITA or as nice as he seems via PM!
Last edited by GREGGPENN; Jun 30, 2008 at 04:32 PM.





I think my 1 5/8" set will terminate where the arrows point right and left (e.g., even with the back of the main case for the ZF6 and fairly even with the 1st ridge in the floorboard. Actually about 1.5" behind it). And, I think 10" will be between the collector and the turn in the floorboard -- straight back from the collector.
As pointed out in a prior post, I'm trying to determine if 1 5/8" are the same overall length as 1 3/4" versions.
Last edited by GREGGPENN; Jul 1, 2008 at 12:31 AM.






