C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

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Old Jun 26, 2008 | 10:59 AM
  #121  
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Originally Posted by racebum
has anyone suggested he join here & chime in on this stuff? he seems to have the best headers going for the C4
I invited him here last Spring. He declined. That's why you saw me relaying everything he said (earlier in this thread). I offerred to to that as an alternative.

Tom,
Thanks for pics of your fix!

Bob,
I thought it took quite awhile for the headers to get thru Jet-Hot (1st time around), but we can hope!
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Old Jun 26, 2008 | 03:53 PM
  #122  
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Should I consider asking Brian to consider doing this mod to get the headers to fit....

Cut the #2 tube loose from at the head flange. Make another cut to remove 1/2" of the tube. Smooth old welds. Re-weld to the flange (heating pipe if necessary -- to get shortened #2 tube to bend back over to the flange). Have re-coated by Jet-Hot.

Could there be issues with recoating? Could a second coat be a good thing and lower outside temps?

Should I just ask for a completely new set (avoiding potential issues from an alteration)?
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Old Jun 26, 2008 | 10:04 PM
  #123  
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Originally Posted by STEVEN13
I agree!!! #2 tube 1" shorter would do the trick.

Steven
Just wanted to take this statement back. With my alignment setting it still will not be enough. I think it has to be raised to clear. I have also emailed Brian. I hope to send this header back to Brian tomorrow.

Steven
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Old Jun 27, 2008 | 08:53 AM
  #124  
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The headers fit with 1/4" clear. I ran the A arm back all the way, just to see the issue [ then re-shimmed back to where I was].

All the way back is pretty spooky, and gets close, but then you would ding it in a slightly different place, if that where your situation.

3/8" did it, though.

With a fresh mount, it may be better, but the car only has 80,000 easy miles on it. Never been raced.

I'm told a good solid piece of hardwood works as well, to just flatten.

Metal to metal should be avoided if possible. Worry's about welds.

Now round #4 The Exhaust!.
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Old Jun 27, 2008 | 10:23 AM
  #125  
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Originally Posted by TJM
All the way back is pretty spooky, and gets close, but then you would ding it in a slightly different place, if that where your situation.

3/8" did it, though.
For comparison to my car, how thick are your shims on that corner?

(Probably won't help to ask how many if different thickness shims are in play).

I'm curious cause my car was tweaked by a '67 Mustang in 2001. (Low-speed T-bone on the front, left wheel). Killed the stang. Mine needed a bumper, hood, straightening of the control-arm mount, and a re-alignment.

It's the main reason I have updated bumpers, sidepipes, and the hood!

edit:
I'm curious if this changed things in my engine compartment. If you have a chance, try sticking a straight edge in there. check the distance from the head to the C-arm.

Last edited by GREGGPENN; Jun 27, 2008 at 04:37 PM.
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Old Jun 27, 2008 | 01:14 PM
  #126  
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On the back bolt of the pass. side upper A arm there are about 1" + 1/16" of Shims.

The front bolts has about 1/2" + of shim.

YJM
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Old Jun 27, 2008 | 02:07 PM
  #127  
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Hi,

Header sent back today.

Steven
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Old Jun 27, 2008 | 04:32 PM
  #128  
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Originally Posted by TJM
On the back bolt of the pass. side upper A arm there are about 1" + 1/16" of Shims.

The front bolts has about 1/2" + of shim.

YJM
Tell me you're kidding....

I look at the rear shims last night and I'm pretty sure there was about 7/16" of shims on mine.

That might explain why Steven says more room is needed than you indicated. I thought the difference you guys were reporting was the difference between LT1/L98 -- including his larger tube size.

DAAAAHHHHUUUUUUMMMMMM!

I might need the 3/8" (that you did) + 1/2" (due to less shims on my car) = 7/8"!

Or I need a forth alignment!!! (It tood 3 times and two alignment shops after the bang-up, before it felt right).
----------------------------

Could the correct fix -- to #2 tube -- be to: leave a 4" initial extension, send the #2 primary straight back, and then down to the secondaries (vs. shortening the 1" or more straight out of the head)?

Would this head over the control arm?

What change are you requesting, Steven?

gp

Last edited by GREGGPENN; Jun 27, 2008 at 04:38 PM.
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Old Jun 27, 2008 | 05:05 PM
  #129  
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Originally Posted by GREGGPENN
Tell me you're kidding....

I look at the rear shims last night and I'm pretty sure there was about 7/16" of shims on mine.

That might explain why Steven says more room is needed than you indicated. I thought the difference you guys were reporting was the difference between LT1/L98 -- including his larger tube size.

DAAAAHHHHUUUUUUMMMMMM!

I might need the 3/8" (that you did) + 1/2" (due to less shims on my car) = 7/8"!

Or I need a forth alignment!!! (It tood 3 times and two alignment shops after the bang-up, before it felt right).
----------------------------

Could the correct fix -- to #2 tube -- be to: leave a 4" initial extension, send the #2 primary straight back, and then down to the secondaries (vs. shortening the 1" or more straight out of the head)?

Would this head over the control arm?

What change are you requesting, Steven?

gp
I'm not kidding, But I am quoting memory? I can measure tonight.

FYI: I have 1-3/4" tubes .

I don't think there was a geometry change between the L98 and LT1 suspension? ........ Could have been, though?

If you are going to "Go-A-Banging" I'd say do it slowly and progressively.
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Old Jun 27, 2008 | 06:04 PM
  #130  
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Originally Posted by TJM
I'm not kidding, But I am quoting memory? I can measure tonight.

FYI: I have 1-3/4" tubes .

I don't think there was a geometry change between the L98 and LT1 suspension? ........ Could have been, though?

If you are going to "Go-A-Banging" I'd say do it slowly and progressively.
Thanks. Try to get the gap between head surface and the control arm. My '89 L98 looks to be around 4 1/8" - 4 1/4".

Besides thinking Brian needs to bend/redo #2, I'm thinking about a change to 1 3/4" too. I was originally convinced that 1 5/8" was "the" size for 350 motors -- even after I do heads/cam. Now I've found where Vizzard says to base size on head flow. 1 3/4" looks better for ported or aftermarket flow. But, I'm sure it depends on where you want improvement in rpm band... bigger/high, smaller/low.

What mods you got?
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Old Jun 27, 2008 | 07:46 PM
  #131  
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First the real dimensions of the shims

The top passenger A Arm BACK bolt is 11/32" Shimmed , The front is 33/64" Not exactly a good guess Huh?


Mods are mild; Hyper tech Thermo Chip, B&M shift kit, K&N filter, some Knock of Flow masters clones & High Flow cat.

Will be installing TPIS fuel pressure regulator @ 43 Lbs.and a set of Bosch 22 LB injectors.

I have a set of those TPIS Siamese'd Intake runners that randall is supposed to cough up ??

All in all I'm hoping to produce about 380 Ft. Lbs and 325 Hp. The HP is probably optimistic, but I think the torque will be there.

Short of Heads and a cam. That's probably the best it will get.

TJM
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Old Jun 27, 2008 | 10:47 PM
  #132  
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Originally Posted by GREGGPENN
What change are you requesting, Steven?gp
I ask Brian instead of making the #2 tube shorter-to reconfigure higher then turn down. He said that without a car to mock up (my words not his) it would not be possible. I did include a photo when I sent back the header. He said he will try to configure by looking at the photo-but also said that he is pretty sure that by making that tube shorter it would work. Any one in CA?

So lets see how this works out. He also added that when I get it back it would be recoated and look like new.

Steven
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Old Jun 28, 2008 | 12:23 AM
  #133  
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Thank you Steven and Tom. I think the shortening might just work.

I'd probably ask if they could get 1" to be safe (since I'll keep shims).

Steven, maybe 1 1/2" for you?

Tom, consensus here is 300hp tops -- w/o cam/headers. But, I'm anxious to here how you like the headers! Any thoughts on drive day?
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Old Jun 28, 2008 | 10:21 AM
  #134  
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The exhaust is going to go slower.

My bender wont do a job I'm satisfied with.

I want to do it as right a possible, so I'm guessing , with screwing it up at least once, Mid July is reasonable target to see how she does.

It's a toy, and work before pleasure.
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Old Jun 28, 2008 | 12:15 PM
  #135  
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Originally Posted by TJM
The exhaust is going to go slower.

My bender wont do a job I'm satisfied with.

I want to do it as right a possible, so I'm guessing , with screwing it up at least once, Mid July is reasonable target to see how she does.

It's a toy, and work before pleasure.
PM sent, gimme a call.......
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Old Jun 30, 2008 | 01:04 PM
  #136  
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C_Bob,
I heard Todd made it by to look at what we got. Sounds like he likes.... Todd mentioned you think the 1 5/8" versions are longer than the 1 3/4" versions (like Tom and Steven bought)?

Based on the pics Tom and Steven posted I didn't think that. Are you sure? Can you pic the one you have installed (from underneath) and/or measure to the rear compartment floorboard? From what I measured, I'm thinking my 1 5/8" set will end up like the ones pictured in this thread.

GP
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Old Jun 30, 2008 | 02:02 PM
  #137  
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Originally Posted by GREGGPENN
C_Bob,
I heard Todd made it by to look at what we got. Sounds like he likes.... Todd mentioned you think the 1 5/8" versions are longer than the 1 3/4" versions (like Tom and Steven bought)?

Based on the pics Tom and Steven posted I didn't think that. Are you sure? Can you pic the one you have installed (from underneath) and/or measure to the rear compartment floorboard? From what I measured, I'm thinking my 1 5/8" set will end up like the ones pictured in this thread.

GP
I'll charge up the camera and try to get some tonight
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Old Jun 30, 2008 | 04:30 PM
  #138  
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Thanks!

I knew I could get you to take a pic -- if I tried hard enough!

Throw in a pic of the top-side and/or motor too! Might as well show it off!!!



BTW: Was this the first time you met Todd? Was he a PITA or as nice as he seems via PM!

Last edited by GREGGPENN; Jun 30, 2008 at 04:32 PM.
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Old Jul 1, 2008 | 12:24 AM
  #139  
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Default Do 1 3/4" versions line up as shown?

I borrowed Steven's pic to illustrate how I'm seeing measurements for fitment....

I think my 1 5/8" set will terminate where the arrows point right and left (e.g., even with the back of the main case for the ZF6 and fairly even with the 1st ridge in the floorboard. Actually about 1.5" behind it). And, I think 10" will be between the collector and the turn in the floorboard -- straight back from the collector.

As pointed out in a prior post, I'm trying to determine if 1 5/8" are the same overall length as 1 3/4" versions.


Last edited by GREGGPENN; Jul 1, 2008 at 12:31 AM.
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Old Jul 1, 2008 | 02:17 AM
  #140  
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Originally Posted by GREGGPENN
Thanks!

I knew I could get you to take a pic -- if I tried hard enough!

Throw in a pic of the top-side and/or motor too! Might as well show it off!!!



BTW: Was this the first time you met Todd? Was he a PITA or as nice as he seems via PM!
We met about 6 months ago. He's a pretty good guy.
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