No doubt the extension needs to be a 45 degree extension.

I am going to cut and re-weld mine to accomodate. It's not an issue for me, just an aggravation. All this is easy when you have the tools, though.

I am going to keep Brian in the loop, so the future models fit perfect. I am guessing I should deserve a deep discount on the next set.

This set will likely end up on a race car, [after they prove themselves] and a new "improved" set will go on my '89 street car

* * *

I thought about shimming the amounts. But changing the drive line geometry more than a 1/4" or so does not appeal to me much.

Indenting #2 is the route I will take. But again, theses tubes most likely will be going elsewhere next year.

* * *

Regarding the Engine limiter idea, the limiter is basically a 'little" shock absorber that limits the motors ability to torque right. It is the equivalent to having rigid motor mounts. Look on Summit Racing site, type in Engine limiter and you'll see an assortment [ $150.00]

Limiters are standard equipment on GT! and Improved touring class Vettes. Real common on the track, but it will shake a stock street Vette to pieces. After all it's still a Chevrolet!

TJM

 

Hello again. Well once again I've fallen asleep at the switch. I haven't posted anything as I wasn't sure about this #2 tube thing. More on that, but to answer Gregg's burning question, Sorry if I stated things wrong, the drivers collector prob I'm having is as pictured.

As for the #2 tube, I ended up dimpling the tube to clear the control arm. YES, this messed up the coating. I sanded the affected area and sprayed with some VHT flat alum HI-Temp. The VHT product states a much higher operating temp than the Duplicolor stuff. I'm not very proud of having to dimple this tube. I wonder if Brian would be willing to swap us pass side sets for the poor fitting ones. (And if a frog had wings he wouldn't bump his azz when he lands)

As for my collectors, I'm in the process of removing them from their respective rings and I'm gonna go with 2-1/2" mandrel bent tube back to the Y. For me, angling the 3" collector is just too much PITA. I'm having enough trouble locating someone local to fab the header-to-cat Y-pipe.
Otherwise I've been dealing with a flooded Impala, visiting in-laws, dog puke in my truck, and a 15yo kid after wisdom teeth surgery. I'll eventually get back on the Vette. Because of all the other crap, Vette work has been taking place from 11:30pm to about 3 or 4 am. because I keep thinking about everything WAAAAAY to much, it's going slowly, and I've been getting pretty burnt out.

More on the Vette as time and health allow.

 

Hi, I hope all works out!! Hang in there...Now back to these headers . The #2 tube needs to be re-worked. Even with new motor mounts it is going to be way to close. My car is set up for roadracing. As a result, I have all the shims removed from the a-arm to gain negative camber-making my problem worse. I am waiting for Brian to get back to me.

Steven

 

If this is the only problem, ............no problem.

Here's what I'm going to do, it's worked for Randall the Motor Head
[ and since he s going to do it, it's a good thing].

Mark the spot,

Take off the headers,

Get a socket or other soild round solid metal piece on the spot. Sockets good because you can shove an extension [ or two] into it.

Strap it with Hose clamps, trying to keep it from rolling off

Place the Tube on a solid surface a wadded up roll of aluminum foil underneath

Heat the stop with a torch or propane bottle if no acetylene is laying around. Do not set yourself on fire.

Tap, NOT WHACK, the socket. The header flattens and the sides roll .

Tighten clamps when it deforms. Tap till happy

I have never done this but will be soon? Randall swears by it so I guess I trust.

 

Thanks TJM, I think I am going to send that header back to Brian. I have since installed the drivers/side and other than the 2nd collector issue-it went in without any problems. Even with these issues, these headers are nice! Many racers use this type of designed header from NASCAR, Imports, and even the C6R factory backed Corvette. I can't wait to get it all back together.

Steven

 

Steve,
Are you going to send back now or get a replacement after the corrections are made up?

All,
It's ironic, but there's a FS thread in C4 Parts. 1 5/8" Hedmans for LT1/LT4. Look at the pics. That's exactly what would happen to these w/o the correction.

 

The modification went well enough.

We used a piece of flat stock instead of round. The location on Tube #2 just did not lend itself, well, to the round die idea. End up tapping with a ball peen hammer at the edges anyway.

Definitely heat the tube as much as possible. The coating flows fairly well. The plastic qualities of the JET HOT seem greater than that of mild steel, but I guess would make sense?

The coating did ‘crack’ a little, but it not as bad as I expected.

I’ll get some shots and put them up.

TJM

 

That larger triangular indention looks to be made by a professional die?

Could Hedman have planned this? If they did, it seems they got the solution upside - down? It would be ideal if the turned the die the other way?

But I have to ask; would it not be better to make a soft flattened spot rather than a sharp intrusion into the path of the gases???

Better not criticize. I could be doing the same thing, after round three is over.

TJM

 

I just looked at the Hedmans on the f/s forum. Seems to be a recurring problem. Maybe if some of these guys(mfrs) actually installed these things we might not be having this conversation. I'm not sure why they do it, but the tube comes out of the flange way too far before it turns down to the 1st y. Considering the issue we're having, it might be better if they had the #2 tube turn a little closer to the head. About 1" would fix it, and there'd still be plenty of room for access to the spark plug.

As for dimpling , I used a Mapp gas torch and began customizing. The torch did discolor the coating. That's where I used the VHT paint.

 

Gregg, I am going to send it back. I don't want it to look like these Hedmans. Brian is doing the right thing!!

Steven

 

I agree!!! #2 tube 1" shorter would do the trick.

Steven

 

Glad its working out!! My stituation is (as I posted) worse as my a-arm is closer (due to my alignment setting).

Steven

 

I just spoke to Brian at Vette Tech, he's gonna take care of mine as well. I just need to find a box and he'll repair the #2 and recoat the
right side then send 'em back.
I guess my frog just got wings.

 

"Dammed if you do, dammed if you don't" trade off.

The straight shot from the heads is a velocity issue. I want that 2".

Does flattening the tube hurt? Can't help, but it can't be as dramatic as a velocity loss in one tube?

Tough about the discoloration. We kept the flame fat and brushed it pretty broadly [ did stat a few peripheral fires though! ]. No discoloration, but probably just luck.

I'm taking some photo's and do a fit, tonight. See what happens?

TJM

 

I agree with TJM. For performance, you want gases to travel in a straight-line out of the head as far as possible. Race cars go much further (before the initial primary tube bend) than stockers because of that importance.

These are primarily race headers. You are buying what racer's want. (This is ironic because I also think they represent the best street header design).

On the Hedmans, I suspect that failing motor mounts caused the issue. By looking at the pic, I can imagine exactly where the control arm stud, nut, and washer indented that header. Also, they look shorter (on #2) to begin with.

I'm glad you called Brian. An email to me said he would address complaints on a one-by-one basis. Said he doesn't see the same issues from car-to-car.

I was wondering about re-coating. Early in the order process, Brian asked if I wanted mine double-coated -- a request that racers make. For street cars, he said I should save the extra $100 cost. I agreed.

After reading your posts (and being reminded of head abatement), I was thinking I should have said yes -- hoping that it would retain heat in the header better.

Maybe this is my chance? Hope it's not a problem to recoat at such a late date....

 

Time to say this; Brian seems a heads up guy.

There are not many small shops that would offer to fix a problem once they have the money. I'm a not certain the bigger guys would?

Of course, the proof is in the pudding, and Brian is just starting to stir it, but if he follows through, then we have a friend and a good product that will only get better, with more constructive feedback , that we can offer.


Amen

TJM

 

 

I agree as well. It's very impressive that he's willing to stand behind his product this way. I'm gonna try to ship today (thurs) and get them out there. Hopefully it'll turn around quick. He stated 5 days for the re-coat, I hope he gets #2 changed quickly as well. Doing the math...
About a week to get them there, 5 more days to coat, ? days to repair #2, and finally another week to get them back. That puts it out to at least July 17 b4 I get it back. With all due respect to Brian and what he's doing for us, I sure hope this doesn't go into August.

 

has anyone suggested he join here & chime in on this stuff? he seems to have the best headers going for the C4

 

Brian seems earnest. He also has a motivation, as he has a decent product, at a reasonable price, with only one issue left [ collector on the driver's side notwithstanding].

Lots of potential customers, here, and zero marketing costs. He should take good care of a few guys to maintain this sort of cash flow.

The pictures attached are my progress on fixing the issue the hard way.

I dropped the die idea after seeing the picture Gregg suggested looking at. Didn't like that so much.


The offending area. Not pretty. Used a Nylon block and a hammer. I hate hammers . You can see were the coating "parted".



This amount to a 3/8" indention.



Just another angle.



We'll see if this does it.

TJM