bolts look great with my red/black theme tho
A question to the AFR Users
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,740
Likes: 2
From: Winchester Virginia
A question to the AFR Users
What head bolts and part numbers did you use? I'm looking at ARP, and just want to make sure I'm getting the right set.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...1&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...1&autoview=sku
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,309
Likes: 20
From: Woodstock Georgia
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,740
Likes: 2
From: Winchester Virginia
arozenstraten- I'm not sure that I need studs, but if I were boosted, I could see the logic in that approach! My compression is going to be just under 11:1 normally aspirated.
Orr89rocz- Which link? Better yet, which ARP part number are you using?
Thanks
Orr89rocz- Which link? Better yet, which ARP part number are you using?
Thanks
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 4,532
Likes: 7
From: Lahaina Hi
If your using lt1 block i would use the studs
The Lt1 have open holes and leak water.I also use the mr gasket A-2 sealent on the bolts to seal the water jacket threads on the stud or bolt
The Lt1 have open holes and leak water.I also use the mr gasket A-2 sealent on the bolts to seal the water jacket threads on the stud or bolt
Last edited by REDC4CORVETTE; May 16, 2008 at 12:57 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,838
Likes: 10
From: Austin TX
I have studs on a couple of cars and not on others. I much prefer regular bolts for two reasons. Some of the head bolts (or studs) tap into water passages. A few of the studs will leak coolant right up through the threads of the studs. After you do your re-torque, a few more will leak. And don't forget, some of the studs with possible leaks are under the valve covers.
Head bolts are much less problematic.
Secondly, if you ever have to take the heads off with the engine still in the car, it's 2x more difficult with studs.
My experience.
Head bolts are much less problematic.
Secondly, if you ever have to take the heads off with the engine still in the car, it's 2x more difficult with studs.
My experience.
Last edited by 73, Dark Blue 454; May 15, 2008 at 11:45 PM.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 81,241
Likes: 3,063
From: altered state
St. Jude Donor '05
First time I used studs I freaked, seeped for almost a week and eventually corroded themselves shut like the machinist said they would.
Thing is it wasnt my motor so I REALLY got an earful about how I f'd it up. Hey, he wanted studs, he got it.
Still running to this day though.
Total waste on a NA motor.
