I just want to throw out there, that maybe when your car overheated and blew the head gasket, maybe the cat melted.

The only time I have seen cats glow like you describe was when one was melted and obstructed inside. Also, this happened on my '85, and I lost ALL power. At first I could only go about 70 mph top speed, then 45 mph! That happened after my MAF went bad and it ran rich for awhile.

I would pop that cat out and see how it runs w/o it. It is a little loud, but not too bad to start it and see if it idles.

One night I was working on my car in my garage with the header y pipe off. There was a bunch of guys standing around drinking beer, so I snuck in there and started it up. You should have seen them jump! Sounds pretty good w/ open TPIS headers.

 

Could the "shadetree mech" have overlooked the est. wire? Found it on my ´91 and is in the same place as described.

 

I tried to see if there were any codes in the computer...I followed the directions in my Haynes....said to jumper A and B ...I did that and then turned the key to ON...the fan come on...no check engine light...then the voltage quickly started dropping. I double checked that I was in A and B...same results...now the volts were down to 9.0
I disconnected everything and tried to turn the car over...dead battery....what am I missing ???

 

Not good, ECM isn't communicating, I check the connections to the ECM. Then make sure the battery is fully charged.Then try again, you're doing it the right way to check for codes. Sounds like first, you're dumping alot of fuel (another symtom of a bad ECM...car usually starts running "pig rich") and your cat glowing is an indication of fuel dumping or a clogged cat.

 

You are SOOO right! I was a "hot rod" engine builder too before I got my '85. Have I ever gotten an education since then. Do what has been suggested and I think you will find the problem.

 

Did you double check the wires sequence?

Have you got the battery re-charged?

Next thing after checkin' sequence is timing.

Have garden hose ready tho'...

 

So since I could not get the ECM to show me any codes...does it sound like the ECM is bad?? Is it worth it to replace it? Cost $79 for a reman unit. I pulled mine and its and ACDelco REMAN.

 

Let me start out by saying I am no mechanic. A shadetree would be more advanced than I am.

I had a similar problem on my 87 just a few weeks ago. It started out as a simple injector change and intake manifold change. After I was done the first time, it would start immediately and surge to about 2400 RPM and then it would try and stall. If I feathered the gas pedal I could get it to stay running but I had small backfires in the plenum. There was no idling at any point during this first try.

I have been told that backfires out the exhaust is timing and backfires in the engine compartment is vacuum/air problems.

I think the main problem was the cold start injector not seated correctly and slightly bent flange.

What I ended up doing was redoing everything again. The first time around when I tightened the intake manifold I did it tight then torqued to only 25 ft lbs. The second time around I torqued to 25 ft lbs and then 45 ft lbs. I replaced the o-ring on the Cold Start Injector and straighten out the flange in a vice. Not sure exactly which did the trick, am leaning towards the Cold Start but you never know.

As for the vacuum diagram it is located on the driver side close to the radiator. If yours is missing let me know and I can take a picture of mine but it is for an 87 so please keep that in mind, because I do not know what differences would be in the years.

The location of the cold start is on the driver side between cylinders 5 and 7 and bolts into the bottom side of the runner.

I too thought it was timing and to make sure I took out the #1 spark plug, hand cranked the engine until I felt pressure on the spark plug hole and then turned until the timing mark was on 0. Then I pulled the distributor cap off and undid the distributor clamp raised the distributor and pointed the rotor towards the number 1 cylinder. At this point I knew the timing was very close to being correct and had planned to do the final adjustment once I got things idling correctly.

Just a few more things to look at before you start throwing money at it and still not getting anywhere. I tried throwing some money at it but it was for nothing, like a new IAC and new MAF.

 

I found a large rip in the hose going to the PVC valve. The rip is down low close to the fitting on the engine. I am hoping this is the problem. What do you guys think ??

 

The rip in PCV hose ain't going to help things, but probably not the cure. You say you have no "service engine soon" light. Is that the case, or it's not flashing any codes when you try and retrieve them ??
http://members.shaw.ca/corvette86/No...0-%20Light.pdf

 

I have had the same problems many many years ago. My $$ is on the ecm That is what it was on mine. If not, I am guessing maf, or the maf burn off module behind the bread box... the burn off module is insanely priced for the 85, hope that isnt it.

 

No light at all. I will have to print out this doc and check everything... thanks for the info

 

My info is for the 165 ECM (86-89). I'm not sure if the inputs/outputs to ECM and sensors, is going to be the same for the 85 ECM.
It would be better if you had this section from an 85 manual.
Anyone have this for 85 ??

 

No. The computer won't get all the new codes until the motor has warmed up and gone to closed loop mode.

 

Is it possible to check the timing when i can not get the car to run at a steady rate...it will not idle at all....and it is very difficult to keep it at any given RPM ....

 

I am getting close to giving up....i am by no means a mechanic and this is really frustrating...The issue is that there are no good mechanics in the area so my only option is the Chevy dealership...I know its gonna cost an arm and leg but they said they could work on the 85 with no problem..... should i take it to them and be done with it ???

 

Followed this step by step and based on it the Engine Ground for the ECM is bad or the ECM itself. I tried to track down the ground but it goes into the distributor and I dont know where it goes from there.

I did trace the plug wires again and I am SURE they are right....I labeled them and everything.

Replaced the riped PVC hose.

I tried to crank the car today but NO luck...it will not start....

 

Yes.

Approximate timing just to confirm that it's in the neighborhood for diagnostics, can be checked without the motor running.

Rotate the engine until #1 cylinder is at top dead center spark, NOT top dead center exhaust (twice in the engine cycle, it is at TDC).

Turn the engine with a socket on the crankshaft hub. One way to ascertain TDC spark is to pull the #1 cylinder spark plug, screw in a compression guage, and then turn the motor. When the comp guage spikes, you are at or near TDC spark.

Then take note of the position of the #1 spark plug wire at the distributor cap pull the cap. Remove the distributor cap, and see if the rotor, which makes the current to the spark plug wire, is at or near the contact inside the cap where the #1 wire connects. It should be almost exactly at that point for cylinder #1 connection.

Post back after this check.

 

AGREE, then get a new wrench

 

Good suggestion, especially since Mr. Shadetree had to remove the intake manifold and distributor to remove the heads. The distributor may be indexed incorrectly, therefore a diagram showing where the wires should be on the cap means nothing. Find TDC for number 1 cylinder then remove the distributor cap and see where the rotor is pointing.