C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Is JB Weld STRONG???

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Old Jun 14, 2008 | 10:21 PM
  #21  
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Sorry to hear about your troubles,

I broke my Crank damper bolt once, it was an ARP hardened bolt, drilled it out with progressively larger bits until I could chip it out with a hammer and a punch,
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Old Jun 14, 2008 | 10:24 PM
  #22  
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Welding a hex nut to the top of a broken bolt works well.

..if you have a welder. JB Weld is useless for the application.

Best of luck.
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Old Jun 14, 2008 | 11:10 PM
  #23  
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Sounds like the extractor is too deep to even weld a nut onto it. If it broke off....it is in there solid. You could apply heat from a torch, but then you would probably fry the seal and too much heat could damage things farther.

Any way to get needle nose Vice-Grips onto it and turn while someone else uses a center punch on it to tap it around????
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Old Jun 14, 2008 | 11:50 PM
  #24  
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Sears makes a new type extractor tool that might work. Go look at one and see if you think it might work for you. Save some money.
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Old Jun 15, 2008 | 01:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Eddie & the Cruisers
Sears makes a new type extractor tool that might work. Go look at one and see if you think it might work for you. Save some money.
Which type?
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/search_10...NAL_SORT_ORDER
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Old Jun 15, 2008 | 05:23 AM
  #26  
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start drilling with LEFT handed drill bits.

well... the extractor will come out with right handed drill bits.
The stud will come out with left handed drill bits.
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Old Jun 15, 2008 | 11:36 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by larryfs
start drilling with LEFT handed drill bits.

well... the extractor will come out with right handed drill bits.
The stud will come out with left handed drill bits.
Gotcha. Extractor first, then the bolt
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Old Jun 15, 2008 | 12:18 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by nyernga1
JB weld makes for a good patch but it's never worked for me when torque has to be applied.
Same here.
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Old Jun 15, 2008 | 12:43 PM
  #29  
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wait till you see what left handed drill bits cost.
ha ha ha ha ha
but that's the only way it's coming out. I don't bother with extractors any more.
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Old Jun 15, 2008 | 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by the blur
wait till you see what left handed drill bits cost.
ha ha ha ha ha
but that's the only way it's coming out. I don't bother with extractors any more.
Left hand drill bits arent really any different when it comes to quality (I have ahole box, and got it jobber price MSC), ie carbide and cobalt, but they havent done anything to get this bolt out. It was work hardened to much. I think I need to EDM it? I hear that is the real way to get a bolt out that cant be drilled, just blow it up!
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Old Jun 15, 2008 | 04:34 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by steve40th
Left hand drill bits arent really any different when it comes to quality (I have ahole box, and got it jobber price MSC), ie carbide and cobalt, but they havent done anything to get this bolt out. It was work hardened to much. I think I need to EDM it? I hear that is the real way to get a bolt out that cant be drilled, just blow it up!

I used a centerdrill, .312" or .250",,,,,,,, try and see if you can get a center drill on it, the tips are small and you can buy long center drills from MSC,,,

then try and use a drill to start on the center drill spot

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Old Jun 15, 2008 | 05:15 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by LD85
I used a centerdrill, .312" or .250",,,,,,,, try and see if you can get a center drill on it, the tips are small and you can buy long center drills from MSC,,,

then try and use a drill to start on the center drill spot

I just got two of these in 4 inch lengths, made of carbide. Today is a busy day, so tommorow I will try. I like these, because if you bust one end, you can use the other.
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Old Jun 15, 2008 | 06:35 PM
  #33  
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EDM is a little more friendly than blowing it up, but close. This usually works for me though, once I've spilled a little blood whatever is causing a problem seems happy & stops fighting me. The center drills "should" get thru the work hardened area on the bolt, if they fail, a good rotary file is the next step. Try to use any light lubricating oil to keep the heat down while drilling, if you can get a "cutting fluid" they work better than say WD 40.
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Old Jun 15, 2008 | 07:20 PM
  #34  
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You may want to order a couple that are not carbide, (High Speed Steel) just don't wobble the tip or it can snap.

I agree with metal tech, use 100-150 rpm or so if you can and keep thick oil it, blow it out with air, do it again etc....
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Old Jun 15, 2008 | 07:52 PM
  #35  
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I have TAP cutting oil, and a good drill. I will keep the RPMs down. HSS bits suck, with this thing. But I have left hand HSS when/if needed.
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Old Jun 15, 2008 | 10:13 PM
  #36  
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There's some special welding rod that is super high tensile and uses a flux coating to protect the bolt hole/threads. At work we have a kit specially made (welding rod) for removing broken bolts. I haven't had an oppurtunity to try it, yet.

Here's a link to the Hobart Welding board were they talk about this method: http://www.hobartwelders.com/weldtal...ad.php?t=14860

Maybe you should ask local welder or welding supplier...

Last edited by DanZ51; Jun 15, 2008 at 10:15 PM.
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Old Jun 16, 2008 | 12:42 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by DanZ51
There's some special welding rod that is super high tensile and uses a flux coating to protect the bolt hole/threads. At work we have a kit specially made (welding rod) for removing broken bolts. I haven't had an oppurtunity to try it, yet.

Here's a link to the Hobart Welding board were they talk about this method: http://www.hobartwelders.com/weldtal...ad.php?t=14860

Maybe you should ask local welder or welding supplier...
I will ask my two NDT welders. They may have this also. The problem is the bolt is 2 1/2 inches down into a small diameter hole (crankshaft snout), where a 7/16 bolt goes. Its basically a blind hole.

Last edited by steve40th; Jun 16, 2008 at 12:45 AM.
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Old Jun 16, 2008 | 07:11 PM
  #38  
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Time for the machine shop you will not get it out those extracters are hardened which also makes them brittle,edm time.
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Old Jun 16, 2008 | 11:14 PM
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Originally Posted by hgh pwr
Time for the machine shop you will not get it out those extracters are hardened which also makes them brittle,edm time.
I know, but I have gotten two extractors out of this mess with the special bits from work. This bit is in about a 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch. If I can drill into it with the starter carbide solid bit, and get an extractor into it, maybe I can jerk it out over time. I am trying guys, to avoid the machine shop, really trying.
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