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I broke my Crank damper bolt once, it was an ARP hardened bolt, drilled it out with progressively larger bits until I could chip it out with a hammer and a punch,
Sounds like the extractor is too deep to even weld a nut onto it. If it broke off....it is in there solid. You could apply heat from a torch, but then you would probably fry the seal and too much heat could damage things farther.
Any way to get needle nose Vice-Grips onto it and turn while someone else uses a center punch on it to tap it around????
wait till you see what left handed drill bits cost.
ha ha ha ha ha
but that's the only way it's coming out. I don't bother with extractors any more.
Left hand drill bits arent really any different when it comes to quality (I have ahole box, and got it jobber price MSC), ie carbide and cobalt, but they havent done anything to get this bolt out. It was work hardened to much. I think I need to EDM it? I hear that is the real way to get a bolt out that cant be drilled, just blow it up!
Left hand drill bits arent really any different when it comes to quality (I have ahole box, and got it jobber price MSC), ie carbide and cobalt, but they havent done anything to get this bolt out. It was work hardened to much. I think I need to EDM it? I hear that is the real way to get a bolt out that cant be drilled, just blow it up!
I used a centerdrill, .312" or .250",,,,,,,, try and see if you can get a center drill on it, the tips are small and you can buy long center drills from MSC,,,
then try and use a drill to start on the center drill spot
I used a centerdrill, .312" or .250",,,,,,,, try and see if you can get a center drill on it, the tips are small and you can buy long center drills from MSC,,,
then try and use a drill to start on the center drill spot
I just got two of these in 4 inch lengths, made of carbide. Today is a busy day, so tommorow I will try. I like these, because if you bust one end, you can use the other.
EDM is a little more friendly than blowing it up, but close. This usually works for me though, once I've spilled a little blood whatever is causing a problem seems happy & stops fighting me. The center drills "should" get thru the work hardened area on the bolt, if they fail, a good rotary file is the next step. Try to use any light lubricating oil to keep the heat down while drilling, if you can get a "cutting fluid" they work better than say WD 40.
There's some special welding rod that is super high tensile and uses a flux coating to protect the bolt hole/threads. At work we have a kit specially made (welding rod) for removing broken bolts. I haven't had an oppurtunity to try it, yet.
There's some special welding rod that is super high tensile and uses a flux coating to protect the bolt hole/threads. At work we have a kit specially made (welding rod) for removing broken bolts. I haven't had an oppurtunity to try it, yet.
Maybe you should ask local welder or welding supplier...
I will ask my two NDT welders. They may have this also. The problem is the bolt is 2 1/2 inches down into a small diameter hole (crankshaft snout), where a 7/16 bolt goes. Its basically a blind hole.
Last edited by steve40th; Jun 16, 2008 at 12:45 AM.
Time for the machine shop you will not get it out those extracters are hardened which also makes them brittle,edm time.
I know, but I have gotten two extractors out of this mess with the special bits from work. This bit is in about a 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch. If I can drill into it with the starter carbide solid bit, and get an extractor into it, maybe I can jerk it out over time. I am trying guys, to avoid the machine shop, really trying.