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Well, I have been fighting for a few weeks to extract a bolt. Well after finally getting a carbide drill bit, I was able to drill a hole about an inch in, then I put a extractor in (And I put it in, with a hammer). Its the straight type that snap on sells.
Anyways, all seemed well then the thing snapped. It was sticking out far enough to see it but not enough for a pair of vice grips to grasp.
So, can I put some JB weld on a thin socket, tap it on, and hope it will get enough grip after hardening to help pull it out?
I'm with Demonic, nothing to lose at this point. But I would think the extractor is hardened and will be tougher than most things you might be able to attach to it. Which bolt, where at and what's it hold? Is the entire component removable? Maybe take to a machine shop?
Could something be welded to the stub to give you something to get a hold of and maybe weld a socket to that? Just trying to think of ideas.
Last edited by c4sailor; Jun 14, 2008 at 03:56 AM.
Well guys it is a crankshaft hub bolt. It got work hardened with lesser quality bits. When the carbide drilled into it, I figured all was well. It was originally torqued around 70ft/lbs, but work hardeneing it etc has caused it to be tight!
Hopefully the JB weld will allow me to move it back and forth to where it finally comes out, then I can redrill with a new larger size carbide bit and try a bigger extractor. The next size is the last before threads are gone, then its machine shop time.
Friday the 13th, what a day.
If the JB fails there is another option. A very small pencil grinder with Carbide burrs will eat up the easy-out. Vinnies idea of PB & Heat can help loosen the possible corrosion in the threads. A small propane torch & really careful not to damage the original heat treatment of the crank If you can find a shop that has an EDM machine, that will remove the offending easy-out & bolt, provided the crank is out of the block.
My experience...damn straight it's strong on metal...but won't work on plastic. What does work on plastic? What kind of plastic do you have? I don't know...just give me something that works.
I have a similiar problem with my motorcycle. My steering stabilizer bolts thru the gas tank front tabs into the aluminum frame. Well stainless and aluminum make a nasty combo with corrosion and I broke a bolt off. I drilled down and tried to used an extractor and broke it off also. I have burned thru a bunch of bits trying to get it out. I cannot get a torch in there. Any ideas?
From: One day you're a Comet...the next day you're dust... Arkansas
Originally Posted by steve40th
Well guys it is a crankshaft hub bolt. It got work hardened with lesser quality bits. When the carbide drilled into it, I figured all was well. It was originally torqued around 70ft/lbs, but work hardeneing it etc has caused it to be tight!
Hopefully the JB weld will allow me to move it back and forth to where it finally comes out, then I can redrill with a new larger size carbide bit and try a bigger extractor. The next size is the last before threads are gone, then its machine shop time.
Friday the 13th, what a day.
JB weld is great for joining metal but won't take shearing force.
Any of those two part clay-like epoxys are amazing. My company has some wheat moving facilities, and the moving wheat wears every out--puts holes in quarter inch stainless. They fix it with jb weld stuff and it wears better than the steel.
I just removed 4 broken studs last week and I tried everything--extractors, super lube, torch--just kept breaking the end off, what a nightmare. Finally studs were all broken off, but my last resort worked on all four studs. This won't help you if you have already drilled into the piece but I slotted the stud and took it out with an impact driver.
Good luck.
Thanks guys. I will put some more penetrant on the bolt for a few hours this morning. I am able to move the extractor back and forth a little, so I am hoping it will eventually come loose, as its not threaded in there, just tapped in.
Then I will see about next size up or take the crank out and have a machine shop fix it.
Worst case, Heli Coil, or retap for next size bolt 1/2x20.
JB Weld is good for filling holes and minor repairs but will not take the torque that you need on the extractor. Don't waste your time. It might go up to 3000 psi where as a piece of steel might be at the 60,000 rate.
Small carbide tip on a grinder and hours of patience...
Or drill out the whole thing. Then drill oversized and retap oversized and get new bolt.
JB Weld is good for filling holes and minor repairs but will not take the torque that you need on the extractor. Don't waste your time. It might go up to 3000 psi where as a piece of steel might be at the 60,000 rate.
Small carbide tip on a grinder and hours of patience...
Or drill out the whole thing. Then drill oversized and retap oversized and get new bolt.
I understand its not near as strong as steel. But if I put it on, then use it to try and wiggle the extractor out as it does flex. I am hoping the thing will just finally work itself loose. Not the bolt, just the extractor.
What is the chance of using a drummel with a small cut off wheel to cut a slot in the extractor then a screwdriver to try and back it out?
Don't think it would work either. Extractors are usually hardened steel, more than grade 8.
Best of luck....try anything and everything.
Tried that first, broke it. The JB weld is weak a** poop. Anyways, couldnt even wiggle it a little and it broke off of the extractor.
I think it is time to get a loan, and go to the machine shop.
I R DUN!!!