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What is the best way to check rear wheel bearings? FSM says to use a dial indicator on the rotor. Can they be checked by trying to move the wheel when jacked up? If so does the suspension need to be jacked up to take the load off the suspension or just as the wheel hangs?
Gee, I was hoping some one would answer you on this. I just changed the right rear on my 94 LT1. Had a little vibration and when I jacked it up and pulled on the tire, it had a real good "clunk". The left side didn't. I changed the u-joints while I had the half shaft out. the bearing feels fine on the bench. I don't see how checking the runout on the rotor will tell you anything as it is floppy loose with the wheel off. Yeah, I know, you put the lug nuts back on and check it then. You still don't have ANY load on the axle.
BTW, the u-joints were not real bad, just starting to get some fine grooves, had 100K on them.
I'd like to hear what is a quick way to kknow if the bearings are starting to go out.
Symtoms of a bad wheel bearing: Some looseness while driving, maybe some vibration coming from the drive train, a howling sound especially when making turns at speed. After a year of autocrossing, I experienced these symtoms, jacked her up, and checked the wheel at the 12 and 6 o'clock position for any play. I had a significant clunk feel with some movement. You have to be sure you are not feeling the suspension components moving which could tell you you might need work there. I replaced the rear bearings with the newly designed tapered bearings I got from the other forum's GP. That fixed my symtoms and I'm back in good shape again.
Jack the car up enough to get the wheel off of the ground. Grab the wheel at the 12 and 6 position, and rock it back and forth to see if there is any play. You should have none, if you do..........Do what I did, replace them!...............Hope that helps
Symtoms of a bad wheel bearing: Some looseness while driving, maybe some vibration coming from the drive train, a howling sound especially when making turns at speed. After a year of autocrossing, I experienced these symtoms, jacked her up, and checked the wheel at the 12 and 6 o'clock position for any play. I had a significant clunk feel with some movement. You have to be sure you are not feeling the suspension components moving which could tell you you might need work there. I replaced the rear bearings with the newly designed tapered bearings I got from the other forum's GP. That fixed my symtoms and I'm back in good shape again.
could you share where to get the tapered bearings? thanx
News Flash, if those u-joints weren't smooth as glass they were shot.
The end play in a bearing over .01 is hosed, when you jack up the wheel and yank on it you are just pushing rubber around.
The procedure doesn't say anything how you are supposed to get a dial indicator positioned on a stable surface to check a bearing, it's a pain.
Most C4 rear bearings by now are gone if they've never been changed. Mine were totally toast when I finally figured out why the the car was all over the road on anything brand new slick pavement. That was 8 years ago.
What is the best way to check rear wheel bearings? FSM says to use a dial indicator on the rotor. Can they be checked by trying to move the wheel when jacked up? If so does the suspension need to be jacked up to take the load off the suspension or just as the wheel hangs?
Thanks for the advice.
The reason for using a dial-indicator, just as the service manual states, is because some play is acceptable.
You need to determine if the amount of play you have is excessive.
I believe the service manual states (I don't have it in front of me now) that up to .006" play is acceptable.
For anyone using the 6 O'clock and 12 O'clock "hand rocking" method, .006" play is going to feel waaaaaaay tooooooo much.
But, you will be surprised at how much .001" play feels too.
I prefer no more than .003" play, many "hand rocking" checkers are going to say that is too much, but it is well within specs.
Jack the car up enough to get the wheel off of the ground. Grab the wheel at the 12 and 6 position, and rock it back and forth to see if there is any play. You should have none, if you do..........Do what I did, replace them!...............Hope that helps
R/Noland
....... ..when i had this problem years ago, while i had the back end disassembled, i changed out the rear u-joints also....why tear it apart twice?