C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Witch clutch do i buy ???

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Old Jul 1, 2008 | 08:54 PM
  #1  
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Default Witch clutch do i buy ???

i need a new clutch and i was wondering witch clutch should i go with ?


i plan on doing some "DRIVING" so i don't think a factory replacment would do the job.


what company/stage should i go with ?
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Old Jul 1, 2008 | 09:10 PM
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You would be amazed how strong the factory clutch is.

Mine with stood a 150shot, 26X11.5 MT ET streets and 5500RPM launches (1.60 60fts) for a couple of months before it finally gave up.

If your under 450HP and on real street tires, a good quality stock replacement clutch (like a LUK or SACHS) will be fine.

If you just have to have aftermarket I would suggest a SPEC Stage 2. I have the stage 3 in my car currently and its been very good but its a nightmare to drive in DC traffic.
Will
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Old Jul 1, 2008 | 09:36 PM
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Stick with the factory. Many others have issues and aren't worth the trouble for street use.
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Old Jul 1, 2008 | 09:38 PM
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fror a between stock and racing clutch, I recommend going to carolina clutch. For a pull type clutch there is only one source of the pressure plate (valeo)...thus the only thing you can do is to get a more agressive friction material and lighten the flywheel.

Don't even waste your time with the Mcleod, Spec, or others if you are going to go with a single pull type clutch. A "stage III" iron disk clutch is worth about 500-600 hp with out worries.

If you are willing to convert to a push type clutch or twin disk; then these aftermarket companies start to have products that are worth their price. The real key (and pain in the ***) is the hydraulics. Most rely on new slip on throw-out bearings...most have runs where the hydraulis are not up to snuff.

I'm using a pull twin from mcleod...many because it took me 3 tries to get a work master/slave and I am not willing to give them up.

cheers
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Old Jul 2, 2008 | 12:03 AM
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Go for the spooky looking one...........the one with the long nose and the broomstick!! Sorry,couldn't resist.
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Old Jul 2, 2008 | 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by staugur
Go for the spooky looking one...........the one with the long nose and the broomstick!! Sorry,couldn't resist.
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Old Jul 2, 2008 | 09:01 PM
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What year is your car? 6 speed or 4+3?
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Old Jul 2, 2008 | 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by neat
What year is your car? 6 speed or 4+3?
and what is your HP & TQ?
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Old Jul 3, 2008 | 01:54 AM
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Originally Posted by rklessdriver
but its a nightmare to drive in DC traffic.
Will

Will,

What kind of a nightmare are you talking about?

jeff
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Old Jul 3, 2008 | 02:17 AM
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Originally Posted by LD85
and what is your HP & TQ?



stock except a borla exhaust & the previous owner said it has a chip installed.
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Old Jul 3, 2008 | 03:18 AM
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buy stock, luk, sachs, ram, they all have similar. i think the stock pressure plates are all valeo? anyone remember?

with your level of mods the stock one is more than enough, will work correctly and be much cheaper. i've seen the kits on ebay for $200 or so.
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Old Jul 3, 2008 | 06:15 AM
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Originally Posted by staugur
Go for the spooky looking one...........the one with the long nose and the broomstick!! thumbs:
Yup!

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Old Jul 3, 2008 | 06:28 AM
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Originally Posted by staugur
Go for the spooky looking one...........the one with the long nose and the broomstick!! Sorry,couldn't resist.
Damn it! You beat me to it!

That's all I got. I know squat about clutches.
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Old Jul 3, 2008 | 07:41 AM
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i went with a kit from Carolina Clutches.. stage II and a 1 peice steel flywheel.
i have no complaints at all. it's very friendly on the street, and has been holding up well all around.

price was good too.
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Old Jul 3, 2008 | 09:49 AM
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You have a 1996, so I would say a Centerforce Dual Friction would be just fine.

Or a Carolina Clutch Stage 2.

But you need to decide if you keep your Dual Mass flywheel which uses an Unsprung disc, or if you have a Billet FW is uses a spring hub disc.

Also, the 89-93-1/2 Black tag TOB has larger ID than the 94-96 Clutch package so make sure you get a 96 kit.
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Old Jul 3, 2008 | 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeff M
Will,

What kind of a nightmare are you talking about?

jeff

Honestly, it acts like a 6 puck sinstered bronze friction disk clutch should act like. It is very "grabby". Even when cold it wants to lock up as soon as you touch the pressure plate to the disk. If you hold it in between and force it to slip it chatters and jumps. Once you slip it enough to get it hot, it refuses to slip at all and tries to lock up like it was completely out, acting more like an on/off switch than a clutch.... althou it takes a little while to get it that hot.

It's not THAT big of a deal, Requires a lot of attention to drive the car properly in traffic. You just have to "roll it out" easy and keep the RPMs down on take off to aviod burning the flywheel and clutch disk up.

Like I said I love the clutch. It's great at the track and its fine for a nice drive around town or in the country. However it is a nightmare when you have sit there in a 6 lane parking lot, stop and go for 1.5-2 hrs to make it home (12 miles away) everyday.
Will
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Old Jul 8, 2008 | 02:32 AM
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Will,

thanks for the reply, I mis-read your post the first time thinking you had a stage 2 vice 3. I'm leaning toward the stage 2 for my project, which should have a little better street manners.

thanks again,

jeff
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Old Jul 8, 2008 | 08:47 PM
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I have a mostly stock 92 LT1, has roller rocks and headers. I installed a new dual mass flywheel and stock clutch about 5 years ago. I put 2 years of autocrossing on it and she is still doing just fine. The only reason you need to upgrade the clutch is if you plan on using slicks and heading down the 1/4 mile. Don't forget, when you go with a single mass flywheel, your tranny will sound like it has rocks rolling around inside at idle.
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