MERGED-(Fresh opti pull pics) & (Ignition stutter-Code crackers needed)
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 204
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Advance Auto or Autozone? Maybe I should have mine tested while its still out. I didn't know they heated them up.
Agreed. But be careful "now is a good time to" do alot of stuff, mine turned in to a 2+ month project. Some days more sober and productive than others. Now I feel motivation is slipping... but just wait till I post some engine pics 
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,816
Likes: 0
From: :45 minutes from everywhere / E-I-E-I-O
Advance Auto or Autozone? Maybe I should have mine tested while its still out. I didn't know they heated them up.
Agreed. But be careful "now is a good time to" do alot of stuff, mine turned in to a 2+ month project. Some days more sober and productive than others. Now I feel motivation is slipping... but just wait till I post some engine pics
Agreed. But be careful "now is a good time to" do alot of stuff, mine turned in to a 2+ month project. Some days more sober and productive than others. Now I feel motivation is slipping... but just wait till I post some engine pics
I was bein' facetious. It was Advance Auto. AZ probably does the test too.
And the DID NOT actually heat up my module when they tested it. Someone just posted in another thread that they saw a 'pass' result for a module tested cold, but that didn't work when hot.
Mine showed a fail right away for low rpm spec, and also high rpm spec.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,816
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From: :45 minutes from everywhere / E-I-E-I-O
AHHHhhhhhhhh.......
Just got my $75 back.
Got everything zipped back up, pulled the trigger, and it fired right away. Totally smooth idle, just like before. But now 2 codes, not one. The same 41 open ICC circuit, and 42 short in ICC.
I took the new module back to get it tested. Looked new, but the box was greasy. They tested it. And hooked up a ground wire on the tester that the guy DIDN'T do when he tested mine yesterday.
Theirs was good. He tested mine again - GOOD. Got my cash back.
So now I still got the original problem. Time to wire in some temp wire by-passes to find what's goin' on...
Any ideas?
Just got my $75 back.
Got everything zipped back up, pulled the trigger, and it fired right away. Totally smooth idle, just like before. But now 2 codes, not one. The same 41 open ICC circuit, and 42 short in ICC.
I took the new module back to get it tested. Looked new, but the box was greasy. They tested it. And hooked up a ground wire on the tester that the guy DIDN'T do when he tested mine yesterday.
Theirs was good. He tested mine again - GOOD. Got my cash back.
So now I still got the original problem. Time to wire in some temp wire by-passes to find what's goin' on...
Any ideas?
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,816
Likes: 0
From: :45 minutes from everywhere / E-I-E-I-O
I got the H41 and H42 immediately when I finished re-assembly. Ain't that a little strange? 
The battery was disconnected for 3 days.
So I just disconnected the battery again, put in my ig module, fired it, and no light - remember, the DTC 41 will NOT light up SES. The fresh DTC H42 did.
I took a spin, warmed it up, came back and checked for codes again (AFTER I pulled the radiator cap to let off pressure - I had forgotten to clamp one WP hose, and it was drainin' some coolant - idiot).
So this time, no codes. I know it didn't fix itself, cause all I did was clean stuff up, and found nothing wrong. Even with my good ig module back in.
Any ideas???
The battery was disconnected for 3 days.So I just disconnected the battery again, put in my ig module, fired it, and no light - remember, the DTC 41 will NOT light up SES. The fresh DTC H42 did.
I took a spin, warmed it up, came back and checked for codes again (AFTER I pulled the radiator cap to let off pressure - I had forgotten to clamp one WP hose, and it was drainin' some coolant - idiot).
So this time, no codes. I know it didn't fix itself, cause all I did was clean stuff up, and found nothing wrong. Even with my good ig module back in.
Any ideas???
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 5,789
Likes: 8
From: Myrtle Beach SC
St. Jude Donor '05-'06
Is it running right now? Could have been a dirty connector that got cleaned plugging and unplugging it. I always use contact cleaner when I pull a connector and di-electric grease when I plug it back in.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,816
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From: :45 minutes from everywhere / E-I-E-I-O
It was an intermittent problem before - 3 instances in 2 weeks, before I broke it down for inspection. All the factory dielectric grease at the spark plug wires was oxidized powder, but those wouldn't trip 41 code ig control open circuit.
Where's HAL9000 to diagnose AE-35 failure time???
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 5,789
Likes: 8
From: Myrtle Beach SC
St. Jude Donor '05-'06
It's runnin' fine - smooth idle, no hesitation on accel, but how long will it last?
It was an intermittent problem before - 3 instances in 2 weeks, before I broke it down for inspection. All the factory dielectric grease at the spark plug wires was oxidized powder, but those wouldn't trip 41 code ig control open circuit.
]
It was an intermittent problem before - 3 instances in 2 weeks, before I broke it down for inspection. All the factory dielectric grease at the spark plug wires was oxidized powder, but those wouldn't trip 41 code ig control open circuit.
]
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,816
Likes: 0
From: :45 minutes from everywhere / E-I-E-I-O
I took another ride, and it started the rough burn again - same thing as before. I didn't even pull the code - I know it's the H41 again. Dash flickers just a second, it misses a fire, and continues on.
Fuel mileage went back to 18 - 20 (it regresses back to open loop), and it seems to be doin' it only after warm-up.
In the mornin, we're gonna' pull the harness for the ICC, and try to figure out how to wire in some bypasses for each link in the circuit.
Anybody see anything in this FSM schematic?
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...61&postcount=5
Fuel mileage went back to 18 - 20 (it regresses back to open loop), and it seems to be doin' it only after warm-up.
In the mornin, we're gonna' pull the harness for the ICC, and try to figure out how to wire in some bypasses for each link in the circuit.
Anybody see anything in this FSM schematic?
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...61&postcount=5
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 174
Likes: 0
From: OH/FL
FWIW...The engine started bucking on me (as per the usual now) and the CEL came on. Upon quickly pulling over and checking the DelTeq "brain" box, the LED was solid and not blinking. This is good, as a blinking light indicates that the DelTeq system is not getting a solid signal from the OptiSpark.
Might be injectors. I'm getting some from Jon at FIC this week...
Might be injectors. I'm getting some from Jon at FIC this week...
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,816
Likes: 0
From: :45 minutes from everywhere / E-I-E-I-O
I haven't done wire bypasses in the ICC circuit yet - I'm hopin' the new plug wires might solve the problem. One old wire did NOT snap onto the opti, and I'm hopin' that might be the intermittent 'open' in the ICC circuit.
I'm workin' on the wires now (they're workin' on ME!!!). How long does it take? Countin' puttin' di-electric grease on all the wire connectors, armor all on the wire holders (so you can slide the wires in the holders for routing, etc.)???
The coil-to-opti will not snap on.
What a bear
. The rear pass side wire won't snap on - another bear . I had to get off my foot (I got my rear view mirror 'Cripple' placard today
), so I didn't even finish the pass side after an hour and a quarter.
Is the driver's side easier???
I'm workin' on the wires now (they're workin' on ME!!!). How long does it take? Countin' puttin' di-electric grease on all the wire connectors, armor all on the wire holders (so you can slide the wires in the holders for routing, etc.)???
The coil-to-opti will not snap on.
What a bear . The rear pass side wire won't snap on - another bear . I had to get off my foot (I got my rear view mirror 'Cripple' placard today ), so I didn't even finish the pass side after an hour and a quarter.Is the driver's side easier???
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 5,789
Likes: 8
From: Myrtle Beach SC
St. Jude Donor '05-'06
Nope. On the driver side save yourself some aggravation and remove the belt tensioner,the center wheel well panel,unbolt the AC compressor from the acc bracket and move it forward so you can get to the wire loom under it. Some people pull the PS pulley too it helps but I did not do it.Some people unbolt the ASR unit too. Keep having fun:o
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,816
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From: :45 minutes from everywhere / E-I-E-I-O
Any more good news?
Sure!
Now about these 2 wires with the funny boot... My old ones have those 2 on the pass side rearmost cylinders. Is that how they're supposed to be? Cause they're the 2 longest wires. What's goin' to go on the driver's side back hole???
We did get the coil-to-opti wire locked on.
Sure!
Now about these 2 wires with the funny boot... My old ones have those 2 on the pass side rearmost cylinders. Is that how they're supposed to be? Cause they're the 2 longest wires. What's goin' to go on the driver's side back hole???
We did get the coil-to-opti wire locked on.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,816
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From: :45 minutes from everywhere / E-I-E-I-O
I hate spoilin' folks.
I just bought my 4rth set of re-chargeables for my camera. 3 sets are spent takin' so many pics.
You are spoiled.
Here's a scan image. I think I got a lead from piano there...
6 have the regular 90' boots, like the third one down. 2 have the big boot, like the bottom one in the pic.
The 2 oversized ones are also the 2 longest. 1 on right side, 1 on the left? Nope; both my old ones came off the pass. side rear. (the 2 top wires are the opti end)
I just bought my 4rth set of re-chargeables for my camera. 3 sets are spent takin' so many pics.
You are spoiled.
Here's a scan image. I think I got a lead from piano there...
6 have the regular 90' boots, like the third one down. 2 have the big boot, like the bottom one in the pic.
The 2 oversized ones are also the 2 longest. 1 on right side, 1 on the left? Nope; both my old ones came off the pass. side rear. (the 2 top wires are the opti end)
Last edited by schrade; Jul 8, 2008 at 11:21 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,816
Likes: 0
From: :45 minutes from everywhere / E-I-E-I-O
You think THAT'S funny, get a load of this pic 1! (I can't do more than a few minutes on my foot at a time)
I just got one question for redeasy there... I wanna' know how he got his wires in the hole in the third pic.
You couldn't get a vacuum leak through that hole!!!
I just got one question for redeasy there... I wanna' know how he got his wires in the hole in the third pic.
You couldn't get a vacuum leak through that hole!!!
Last edited by schrade; Jul 10, 2008 at 02:05 AM.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,816
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From: :45 minutes from everywhere / E-I-E-I-O
Will the power steering pump come forward off of the mounting bracket? Is it necessary to pull the PS pump pulley?
Is there any PS fluid 'hard tubing' that's secured elsewhere besides at the pump?
Is there any PS fluid 'hard tubing' that's secured elsewhere besides at the pump?
Last edited by schrade; Jul 9, 2008 at 12:56 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 3,651
Likes: 10
From: Apple Valley MN
I just loosened the PS pump bolts and slid it forward a bit, and didn't remove the pulley. I also took out the middle fender liner (had that on and off so many times I wish it was held on with Velcro - LMAO).
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 30,856
Likes: 293
From: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
Getting a socket it there is kinda fun, but lot's of u-joints and you can do it.
Why did you move the AC unit???