This isn't another one of your "My Opti is shot" threads, partially because I have been happily using the DelTeq system for over a year and a half and it's worked great! However, I've developed a serious stumbling after about 215-220 degrees. I had a ton of codes...learned the "paperclip" trick on Sunday...and now the ones showing up after yesterday's driving are as follows:

1 "- - -" (Yay! )
4 "H41 H42 H34"

Now, the DelTeq system does away with the ICC/ICM and coil altogether, replacing it with a "brain" box. Could this thing be bad? Could it still be my Opti? Or...could it be a faulty connection? BTW...it's a '95 coupe with just over 87k miles. Thanks!

 

Your post sounds like it worked well at one time with this same setup and now developed a problem -- which sounds like a part went bad.
If you followed the Delteq instructions to connect your system, the power that originally suppled the stock coil is used to supply the Delteq box and the Nothstar coil pak. So, if there is a problem witht the power that went to the stock coil, it could affect the Delteq.

So, this may not be your case, but let me point out some things about the Opti-Spark and Delteq:
1) An engine that runs fine stock with the Opti-Spark may not run properly at a much higher rpm and HP rating because of Torsional Vibration of the cranskshaft (don't confuse balance with Torsional Vibration -- they are not the same thing, you can feel balance problems, but you will never feel torsional vibration problems). That Torsional Vibration transmitted through the timing chain to the Opti-Spark can cause rotor destruction, rotor screws falling out, and Opti-Spark high-res and low-res pulse chatter that can cause hard to diagnose missing. If you have seriously extended the HP and RPM, consider an after-market torsional vibration damper (notice I did not call it a balancer).
2) The Delteq depends on ONLY the Optical senser in the Opti-Spark for everything. If the low-res or high-res pulses are not stable, they will have a much greater negative effect on the Delteq than the stock Opti-Spark system. In the stock system, the rotor determines the cylinder firing order and the rotor is mechanically synchronized to the engne -- the Delteq has to compute the firing order from the low-res and high-res pulses and is therefore MORE dependent on the Optical sensor and scatter. So, the bottom line is you need a good Torsional Vibration damper more for the Delteq than for the stock system.

As an added note: i did not mount the Delteq box to my cylinder head like the instructions say. To keep it cooler, I mounted it on a raised bracket behind the alternator on my '92.

Tom Piper

 

Tom, thanks for the info. I checked the Camaro SS website also...

The problem is now almost like clockwork. Once coolant temp hits the 215-220 degree hash, it will stutter under acceleration, and the engine feels hesitant and detuned. It is also LOUDER for some reason, especially when I hold a gear and let off the gas to coast to a stop; the exhaust pops and burbles very loudly (like, possibly, the sound of some unburnt fuel hitting a catalytic converter???) It rund

1) Could the rotor be broken in the Opti?
2) could it possibly be the DelTeq "Brain" getting hot? I'm contemplating having something cold to spray the box when it starts doing it again...see if that affects anything.
3) Could it be the connectors?

I'm obviously trying everything BUT the Optispark unit itself.

 

Still a problem, and now when I get out of the car it smells like burning rubber or plastic. Not that bad, but a hot smell nonetheless. I'll drive it at night and then get out and check to see if the cats are glowing red hot or anything...

 

Update Edit.: Working on DTC H41; Ignition Control Circuit 'OPEN'. First was ICC breakdown and inspection - IC module, coil, Opti, connectors. All was okay, except for 1 SPlug wire not snappin' onto opti. After ICC inspection, wires and plugs were replaced for maintenance,.

This ruled out the one SPlug wire as the fault in the ICC 'OPEN'; the H41 persisted.
======================================== ======================================== ======================================== =================

Still workin' on a code H41. So all this amounts to exploratory work.

Housecleanin is never wasted tho'...

The colored bagties are for wire numberin'

 

What will I find when I open the thing?

How best to mark it up so it doesn't 'turn' 'off-time', while you have it off (or has it already turned by itself )?

 

Good luck with your project

 

No need to mark it it probably has turned already just use the "key" alignment and orient the reinstall to the "O'Clock 1,2,3etc" position wiggle and or turn it till it pops it only goes one way.Nothing inside can move independant of the shaft itself actually not much inside. Look for carbon tracing on the inner plastic cover that can cause a miss. That cover covers the optical sensor and you will have to pull the rotor off to get it off. It does not come seperately either.

Looks like your next job will be the dreaded intake leak

 

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=2033363 , http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...2&postcount=38

Advance zone just put the heat on my ignition module.

Fail.

$75.

Ouch.

 

OOPs wasted time but good experience with the opti then right? Not really I see you did the intake and at least you can clean up the mess and make it purty.
At least you found the problem.

 

Burning plastic? And multiple codes?

You have not secured a wiring harness after doing some work, and it is cooking. Either on the EGR pipe, or the exhaust manifold, and the cooked insulation/loom has allowed the circuits for those items/sensors to ground out.

Just an idea...

 

Well, I wouldn't call it wasted time tho'...

Some like tunin' 'em, some like drivin' 'em. I like tunin'. Until gas comes back down, maybe a few more folks will start doin' the tune thing too. I spent about 45 - 50 hours on the intake housecleanin', and there was not a single problem... (until I forgot to plug in the 2 sensors on the intake hose:o )

Now, how does the opti seal against the block? There appears to be no gasket.

AND, I did not crack the opti case. Is there anything that will help maintain the case seal before re-install?

 

You are correct. There is no gasket between the Opti and the block. There is a seal in your timing chain cover that mates to the Opti. These seals leak over time, so you may want to consider replacing this now.

In fact, here is a good pic and description of how to replace the seal in the timing chain cover(I just grabbed this link from another Opti thread that is going on ):

http://www.impalasuperstore.com/nais...TOPIC_ID=30984

And here is the part of the Opti that couples with the seal in the TC cover:


Oil leaks from the "front" of the engine are often attributed to this seal leaking....

 

Good point.

I guess the outer 'flange' doesn't seal anything. I'm surprised that's the only place that was clean on mine, cause the rest was caked with some serious oil jam...

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=2033363

 

As I posted before you can see the crappy seal where the plug connector goes into the opti and how water can get in there. Use some permatex "Right Stuff" and seal that all up. You can also put a bead around where the cap and metal meet. The nitrite seal in the cap can degrade over time letting moisture in there too. I also suggest a touch on the backside where the screws are as oil can seep there.

The previous poster was right no seal needed as the only place oil could come from is the the shaft seal in the TC. If it is clean then it is still good. If you see oil seeping around that seal you should replace it.You can actually see the slot in the opti back that will allow it to drain.

 

Hard cleanin', but matin' surfaces are prepped good.

The opti I couldn't put back in unprotected - I put silicone around the entire edge (overdoin' it a little maybe???)

 

Nope won't hurt it and when it dies just replace it all. I don't see from your pic wether you sealed around the plug going into the opti. Engine does look nicer now but is that oil I see under the opti shaft seal?

 

Good eye.

The fluid is Trans-X. I put a few drops around the shaft seals opti and WP. Does magic to rubber.

The opti seal surface at the input shaft will probably get an RTV film too where Mikec4 pointed to. That outer flange/mating surface just looks totally vulnerable without a gasket.

 

I got dielectric grease into the inside edged of the spark plug wire boot, AND into the connector clip that snaps onto the opti terminal.

The original grease had completely oxidized into white crusty powder. I'd say go pretty liberal on applyin' it too...

 

now would also be a good time to change the wires,the two seals on the cover and the plastic idler pulleys