I have searched tech tips and probably a dozen threads....these are some questions I didn't find or they were brought up and never clearly answered...

I just bough the A-pillar/roof header piece from Wilcox, and have removed the original weatherstripping. Came off really easy in once piece. Here's where the questions start:

1.) what is the best way to get all the crud off? I've started with an exacto knife with a chisel blade. Is there a quicker way? When it comes to getting the old glue off, how much of it do you actually get off? How will I know I've gotton enough off? How long does it realisticly take? I was hoping this could be a 3-4 hour job. Am I way off here thinking that? I haven't driven my 'vette in days and I am not going through some withdrawl over it...ahhh!!!

2.) Do you remove the flanges where the glue is? I am scared I might bend them trying to pry them off. I took all the screws out of the A-pillar and that metal flange won't budge.

3.) I bought the black 3M weatherstrip glue from Wilcox. Comes in a black tube with red lettering. There are no instructions of any kind on the back. What is the drying time?

4.) How EXACTLY is the glue applied? I've heard you're supposed to put a bead on the weatherstrip and smear it and on the part of the car it touches and let it dry completely...I guess to make a rough surface for the glue to bond to.

5.) and obvious no no's?

Bottom line, I just want this to be a one time job. I don't wana do a crappy job and have to redo it-I wana get it right the first time.

 

3M adhesive remover and I used a tack puller for in the channel. It looks like a little claw foot hammer on a screwdriver handle.I did not get it squeaky clean just pretty good.About 1 hr for me to get 90% off.

you do not need to remove anything besides the weather stripping. The tack puller fits in those channels perfectly. I did not get real **** about scratching the channels on the inside. The adhesive and strip will keep them dry.

Overnight is best but it will get pretty tacky in an hour. You can put the top on in 2hrs.

I put a small bead down the channel and A LOT around the corners it is important to do that. I had a long talk with Mr. Willcox about it and that corner bend will ride up if you do not put enough around there.I did not let anything dry or tack just beaded and installed.

Do not put the top on too soon let it sit a couple of hours at least. It will be tough getting it on the first time. Try some dielectric grease on the top edge. Let it sit in the hot sun for a couple of days to a week so everything forms right. You may find the window leaks at first but after some heat it will form. Another point on the install is do the corners first then the middle of the top and work in 1/2s on each side. You may need to pull down on the sides to get the plastic plugs in( make sure you clean those out, the holes that is). One other thing Mr. Wilcox told me was to wipe the mold release off of the strip before install with some alcohol or the adhesive will not stick very well.

Even if you screw up new weatherstripping is a lot easier to remove without damaging it. I got a bad piece and removed it without hurting it( I did not remove the mold release from the strip though).

 

Redeasy is right! But one thing that people always forget is to clean the weatherstrip of mold release before installing.

Here are some tips on how to install weatherstrips correctly. While it will not deal directly with the C4 the method is the same.

http://willcoxcorvette.com/repairand...lp.php?hID=160

 

Last summer I installed the complete Wilcox WS kit on my '88; here are my suggestions:
1.) The ONLY way is to use a WS adhesive solvent; I got a quart can of the 3M solvent at a local AC Delco dealer. The most tedious part and most important part (IMO) of the job is removing every trace of the old adhesive.
2.) Sorry but I don't recall removing any flanges in any area.
3.) I laid a strip of glue into the channels and then simply pressed in the WS piece, using popsicle sticks to avoid tearing the WS. I used a sort of zig-zag pattern of adhesive in the track.
4.) On the positive side, test fit the WS into the channel before applying the adhesive. Then remove and apply adhesive. Once the WS in installed, button her up and walk away for a day or so. Also, pick a sunny warm or even hot day to do the installation and let the WS heat up in the sun before installation.

I laid the A-pillar WS over the top, applied the adhesive into the side tracks, installed the WS into said tracks, applied the adhesive into the header track then installed the WS into the header track, beginning in the center and working to the sides.

It was the first time to do any WS installation and the job came out perfect, it just took a long time to do the prep work.

 

You do not need to remove the tracks. Well you do not need to remove them unless you have a leak between them and the windshield frame. The 'tracks' are actually 5 separate pieces, on the sides there is a weatherstrip retainer and a reveal molding and on the top the retainer and the molding are riveted together. In between these pieces and in between the reveal molding and the windshield frame is a two sided foam tape. On my car, I could see that the foam tape was falling apart and so creating a leak path. I removed all of the retainers and moldings, cleaned them up and repainted them and reinstalled.

You do not NEED to use any glue on the weatherstrip. Most people do in fact use glue, but several of us have done it without glue successfully. At the corners I used 3M bedding and glazing compound. I then installed the weatherstrip, mostly for a test fit without any glue and left it that way, no leaks.

 

See my posts at:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=2023336

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=2027495

lots of experience there.

Took a few evenings to do.