I have an 86 that has a history of not wanting to start. Usually once I try and it fails to start (sometimes it starts on 1st try), then I let it sit for 5 minutes, it will then start. That's the short version!

Yesterday it took 3 or 4 tries and waiting in between to get it started. I drove about 15 miles and it started acting up and quit. I had it towed home. It won't start at all now. Just sputters. I did notice an irratic tach reading for a couple days prior to this event.

Guess what! This issue has never thrown off and "Error Code" and neither has it this time! Great System Eh!

 

So what do you want it to do, tell you exactly what parts to buy and replace? GM didn't put sensors on every component inside the engine, you will have to do some diagnosis on your own. Engines don't start and run for a limited number of reasons and you need to run them all down. Does the starter crank the engine? Do you have spark and spark at the right time? Do you have fuel pressure? Are the injectors being pulsed? Is air getting into the engine?
Do you want it to pat your hand and say, "There there, everything is going to be alright".

 

Sometimes you just need to vent.....LOL.

But, I would think that an on going issue like this would throw off a code.

Believe me it's nothing obvious. I have been all through the ignition and replaced the wires, ignition module, cap and rotor etc. When it runs, it seems to run fine. This is the first time it has left me stranded.

When I find some time I will start through it again.

Any chance anyone else out there experienced a similar failure?

 

Sure, we all have, me included. I searched for the problem, found it and fixed it. Its your turn in the barrel.

 

All I can hope for is a hard failure instead of some ghost like intermittent issue that come and goes and fogs my mind even more!

Thanks for reading!

 

Check the power conection to the distributor, and the connection from the coil to the module. You are loosing spark and you may have a loose connection.

 

Well, it looks like you have to have 3 initials only to post in this thread, but I'm gonna' try anyway... (ed.: whew! saved by guinea pig bjankuski)

Air, fuel, fire.

Air - Filter ok?
Fuel - check fuel pressure?
Spark - got spark at all 8 plugs?

You say when it runs, it SEEMS to run fine? Hmmm... define 'seems'.

 

Powertrain Control Module Codes are only used to identify failures or driveability issues that effect emissions. And the older, OBD1 systems don't capture everything - such as misfires which do increase emissions. The EPA & the OEM'S have never cared if it doesn't run - it's not polluting anything. You need to follow JFB's advice. If you don't know how it works, try Ben Watson's Chevy Fuel Injection - usually available at Borders. The Field Service Manual may also be handy, but it assumes that you allready know what everything is and have access to the tools (such as a Scanner, fuel pressure gage, DVM etc) to diagnose the problem. We can help - but more info is needed and the best place to start would be to see if it's getting enough fuel or any fuel - for it to run. A fuel pressure gage will show what volume is available to the injectors at startup - so think about getting one. If you don't want to do that, you can turn the key to run and see if you can hear the fuel pump running. It should do so and shut off. If so, a crude method to identify volume would be to disconnect the inlet at the fuel rail - attach a hose to it and put it in a coffee can. Then turn the key back to run - it should squirt at least a pint before shutting off. Get that far and repost.

 

I pinched the tach wire between the cap and dizzy base. Eventually it shorted and the motor died. Once I popped the cap and seen what I did, I pulled the wire out and put the cap back on and all was good.
Maybe checking out the white tach wire from dizzy to firewall, might shed some light.

 

A little of subject but I have a 99 Dodge Ram that had a miss in it so I replaced cap rotor and plugs I bought the ignition wires but ran out of time and didn't put them in. the miss stopped so I figured I would put them in the following weekend. within a couple days the miss came back and worse than it was before and it put the ses light on so I took it to autozone to have the code read and it said misfire on cyl # 7 I pulled the wire of number 7 checked it and it was bad I was truly impressed that the ecu figured that out but I still can't figure out how sorry for the interuption AND NOW BACK TO THE SHOW

 

Your '99 is OBD2 and relies on a crank if not a cam sensor to pick up an engine miss or a different acceleration rate when the cylinder is dead. Neat huh? Unfortunately, if you don't clear it, the light is going to stay on until the PCM sees a smooth running engine again. A minor nuisance if you don't have Code Reader with a Clear Function. Great though, because so much more info is available.

 

I disconnected the battery for 30 minutes and the light went off

 

My '86 has been off-the-road for a few months. As of last week it would start and run for while but then die or sputter (barley run). Would like to do it after it got warm and/or restarted.

I checked the ignition, module, EST, all tested good. Fuel pressure was staying up. Finally, after reading a few recent threads I decided to check the injectors.

Well I'ld be embarassed to admit what a few ohm'd out at Let's just say I've got a "couple" of bad ones. :o Now I'm waiting on the boys from FIC...

 

I have the 86 Shop Manual and I have been chasing this issue (whatever it is) off and on for a year. The main reason for my venting is I have too many other projects right now and wanted to drive the Vette this Summer, just put new rubber on it also. Now that isn't going to happen!

OT: I have a BMW in my garage going through a big overhaul. Cars have become a hobby for me, as you can see. I'm also restoring an old boat to go fishing.

Bottom Line: No time for a Vette issue right now. I will resolve it. Will probably be Fall by the time I get back to it though.

SunCr made a much better point of what I was originally complaining about. The OBD1 Sytems (not just GM OBD1, but all as far as I have experienced) are not really that helpful at diagnosis of RUN (air, fuel and spark) issues.

Thanks for reading.

 

I finally took some time to start investigating what left me stranded on the highway.

Dead Fuel Pump - First thing I checked was Spark. Second thing I checked was fuel pressure at the rail. ZERO.

I suspect this was a separate failure having nothing to do with my original hard start issue.

Shes on the road again with a new pump.

P.S. The erratic tach output was simply a bad connection of the tach wire (black) at the distributer.