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I noticed today that the Cruise control did not want to engage.
It did after several tries. Then it just dis-engaged while driving
down I75. I re-engaged it - it went about 3 miles and dis-engaged
once more.
Any ideas where to start?
Larry Sikes http://rockridgefarm.com
mailto:larry@rockridgefarm.com
Visit the forum at the farm.
Try pulling the brake pedal up when you engage it. Put your foot behind the pedal and pull it up. If that works it is the vacuum dump switch just above the brake pedal. To fix it pull the knee bolster push the pedal toward the firewall and push the switch in the same direction it will click forward. Release the pedal and pull back easily to the normal position. You will here some clicking as it self adjusts. Very common problem with the cruise control the switch must be made for the vacuum to hold and when you hit the brake the dumping of vacuum turns it off.
I checked for a vac. leak. Did not find one.
I think it may be the push button in the control.
If I play with the button it will engage and seems to stay
on better today.
I checked for a vac. leak. Did not find one.
I think it may be the push button in the control.
If I play with the button it will engage and seems to stay
on better today.
If you have a loping idle, you air getting in that is NOT supposed to get in. Some people say this is an IAC gig. I say vacuum leak.
A new car on the dealer's lot with a vacuum hose unplugged will lope idle. A 30 year-old lawnmower with its carburetor not tightly bolted down (vac leak) will lope idle.
Warm it up, put a brick next to the pedal or block the TB arm - anything to increase idle to STEADY rpm's, and spray starting fluid, a little at a time, everywhere there's vacuum. EVERYWHERE.
When the spray gets sucked into a hole, you get a surge in revs, and you found [one] leak. And you might have more.
Since your cruise has problems, follow that vacuum route.
I told you exactly what to do above. Readjust it it takes 5 min.The switch button will not cause it to turn off just on. You can pull the turn signal stem and disassemble it and clean with electrical contact cleaner. No big deal.
Last edited by Redeasysport; Aug 7, 2008 at 12:15 PM.
If his pedal switch IS the problem, can he confirm this, without blindly adjusting the release switch?
I'm not exactly understanding the test either...
Now I'm seein' he said not regular dis-engagement. This does lean to the switch.
OP - When it cuts off, have you tried to resume it right away? What happens? Does it ALWAYS resume right away?
Adjusting the switch is no big deal and there is no easy way to check if it is OK because if you are there adjusting it takes all of 30 sec. It eliminates that issue. I have seen many times this switch slips when someone gets their foot behind the pedal and pulls it toward them making the switch adjust. There is some play in the pedal toward the driver when in normal position. The trick is not to pull back on the pedal too much when adjusting it.
I adjusted my pedal switch today. (No cruise since I replaced the power-brake booster last fall.) If I pulled up on the pedal and pushed the cruise button, it worked. As soon as I took my foot out from under the pedal, it shut off.
It's easy to adjust. Lift the pedal as high as you can and then push the switches toward the pedal until they quit clicking (bottom-out).
I took it for a test-drive and it's working correctly now. (I wish I would have done that before I drove down to the Corvette Museum back in May)
I adjusted my pedal switch today. (No cruise since I replaced the power-brake booster last fall.) If I pulled up on the pedal and pushed the cruise button, it worked. As soon as I took my foot out from under the pedal, it shut off.
It's easy to adjust. Lift the pedal as high as you can and then push the switches toward the pedal until they quit clicking (bottom-out).
I took it for a test-drive and it's working correctly now. (I wish I would have done that before I drove down to the Corvette Museum back in May)
Even though it may have worked for you that is not the correct procedure. The reason is if you pull the pedal all the way back it may not allow the switch to hold in the "normal" position as wear on the booster and pedal may allow the pedal to pull back too far. It is best to push the pedal down and push the switch forward and allow it to return to the normal position with a little coaxing. It is best to check for play by pulling on the pedal first to see where "normal" is.The switch moves both directions easily and that is how it gets out of position in the first place. Slightly too much play will cause it to be intermittant if you pull the pedal back too much.
That's exactly how my FSM says to do it.
"Hold brake pedal fully rearward against pedal stop and push each switch into retainer one-at-a-time until stopped by brake pedal and audible "click" sound stops."
That's exactly how my FSM says to do it.
"Hold brake pedal fully rearward against pedal stop and push each switch into retainer one-at-a-time until stopped by brake pedal and audible "click" sound stops."
Yes it looks OK
I am reasonably sure it is the switch button.
Not sure what can be done here - replace the whole thing?
They seem to be pricey.
You have to replace the whole lever. But make sure that's your problem first. The electrical wire for it runs through the steering colum. My car was missing the cruise engage button on the end. New piece cost over $100.
I bought a used lever from Corvette Salvage for about $30. I asked for a clean peice with the white letters and graphics nice and visible and not faded out. They delivered exactly. It looked brand new.