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From: Life is just one big track event. Everything before and after is prep and warm-up and cool-down laps
Cruise-In III Veteran
Cruise-In IV Veteran
St. Jude Donor '12
Are you doing it yourself or having the shop do it again?
I just did mine and I've got two obsevations:
Use new ARP bolts, torque to specs from ARP!
Use the permatex sealant on the threads, DO NOT USE the ARP sealant!
I plan to check the torque on mine as soon as I can get some miles on it. Chasing an electrical problem right now.
Are you doing it yourself or having the shop do it again?
I just did mine and I've got two obsevations:
Use new ARP bolts, torque to specs from ARP!
Use the permatex sealant on the threads, DO NOT USE the ARP sealant!
I plan to check the torque on mine as soon as I can get some miles on it. Chasing an electrical problem right now.
I just got off the phone w/ ARP Tech Support & they recommended their non-hardening/telflon-based thread sealant on their head bolts for an LT1/4 engine.
I just got off the phone w/ ARP Tech Support & they recommended their non-hardening/telflon-based thread sealant on their head bolts for an LT1/4 engine.
Thats annoying, then why do they harp on their sealant in their instructions? And that their torque specs are based on using that specific sealant?
You torque it to specs and leave it alone. Otherwise you end up stretching the bolt and or threads. The most important thing is to chase the threads and make certain that they are clean and that the bolt goes all the way in by hand without resistance before you goo it up. Also you want to make certaint that the mating surfaces are absolutely true. Then you can't go wrong.
If you blow a head gasket, you have to find out the reason the head gasket blew in the first place before simply putting in a new one.
From: Life is just one big track event. Everything before and after is prep and warm-up and cool-down laps
Cruise-In III Veteran
Cruise-In IV Veteran
St. Jude Donor '12
Originally Posted by biggrizzly
What's wrong wit the ARP sealant?
It did not seal, after 2 min of the first start my oil looked like a milk shake.
The permatex sealed perfectly and sealed the head bolts right up.
I used the ARP lube on the bolt heads both times I put it back together.
To the poster that said "tourqe them and leave them alone" that will probably work for a street driven car.
Mine spends lots of time at 5000+ RPM so I'll be checking the torque after driving it a bit.
It did not seal, after 2 min of the first start my oil looked like a milk shake.
The permatex sealed perfectly and sealed the head bolts right up.
I used the ARP lube on the bolt heads both times I put it back together.
To the poster that said "tourqe them and leave them alone" that will probably work for a street driven car.
Mine spends lots of time at 5000+ RPM so I'll be checking the torque after driving it a bit.
Well, I hope mine gets by without this happening. I haven't started it up yet, but I used the ARP Sealant as directed. I wonder if this is common problem with thier sealant? You have me concerened, but I just have a hard time believing that a product that is specifically designed to perform under the conditions we are talking about fails miserably under normal conditions.
Was there a physical tear in the gasket? Otherwise, you might want to get those heads checked for cracks.
Originally Posted by jaa1992
It did not seal, after 2 min of the first start my oil looked like a milk shake.
The permatex sealed perfectly and sealed the head bolts right up.
I used the ARP lube on the bolt heads both times I put it back together.
To the poster that said "tourqe them and leave them alone" that will probably work for a street driven car.
Mine spends lots of time at 5000+ RPM so I'll be checking the torque after driving it a bit.