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Stupid Cooling Question

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Old Aug 23, 2008 | 10:35 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by MK 82
What is known is that you will have to get rid of much more thermal energy. Whether your stock radiator is up to the task is yet to be seen.

As I told you earlier, I would go with the DeWitt.
So you have no useful info to provide him with? I too said to take a wait and see attitude.
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Old Aug 23, 2008 | 11:06 PM
  #22  
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OK lets get a little technical.
350ci=43.7ci per cylinder
427ci=53.4ci per cylinder
That makes ~9.7ci increase in surface area in each cylinder which was more than I thought to begin with. All things being equal that means that is additional heat that will have to be dissipated around 20% more to be exact.

Now if we take that to mean more coolant to accomplish the same cooling per ci it would meant a 3.2 qt. increase over the 16qt radiator. That is the question will that increase be needed or can increased flow accomplish the same thing? Or can the current radiator do the job as it is?
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Old Aug 23, 2008 | 11:24 PM
  #23  
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What you're forgetting is the t-stat. Because it opens and closes to maintain temperature, we don't know if without the t-stat would the temp be lower than 160, 180, whatever.

So the issue is, will the 427 run the temps ABOVE 160, 180, whatever.

Because of the t-stat we don't know what temp the 350 would run without the t-stat.
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Old Aug 23, 2008 | 11:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Redeasysport
OK lets get a little technical.
350ci=43.7ci per cylinder
427ci=53.4ci per cylinder
That makes ~9.7ci increase in surface area in each cylinder which was more than I thought to begin with. All things being equal that means that is additional heat that will have to be dissipated around 20% more to be exact.

Now if we take that to mean more coolant to accomplish the same cooling per ci it would meant a 3.2 qt. increase over the 16qt radiator. That is the question will that increase be needed or can increased flow accomplish the same thing? Or can the current radiator do the job as it is?
Nice try but surface area is measured in square inches.
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Old Aug 23, 2008 | 11:34 PM
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Originally Posted by MK 82
What is known is that you will have to get rid of much more thermal energy. Whether your stock radiator is up to the task is yet to be seen.

As I told you earlier, I would go with the DeWitt.
If I need to change it, I will.
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Old Aug 23, 2008 | 11:35 PM
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Originally Posted by MK 82
John, sorry for the interruption. I think your skin is thicker than that.

Eddie
I have the skin of an rhinoceros.
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Old Aug 23, 2008 | 11:36 PM
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Originally Posted by jsup
If I need to change it, I will.

Let's hope you don't have to.
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Old Aug 23, 2008 | 11:36 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by MK 82
Nice try but surface area is measured in square inches.
Right, so the correct formula is the surface area of a cylinder, which I am too dam tired to figure out.
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Old Aug 23, 2008 | 11:52 PM
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Hey Jsup,
This is off subject of your original questions,but wanted to ask if you ever heard of the evans cooling system?I read about it,but never seen it in use,personally.

http://www.evanscooling.com/main21.htm

Just something to add for thought.Wonder if anyone here has used it?Maybe something worth looking into.

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Old Aug 24, 2008 | 07:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Aggravated4life
Hey Jsup,
This is off subject of your original questions,but wanted to ask if you ever heard of the evans cooling system?I read about it,but never seen it in use,personally.

http://www.evanscooling.com/main21.htm

Just something to add for thought.Wonder if anyone here has used it?Maybe something worth looking into.

Thanks. I'm learning as I go. I've built a number of small blocks and understand the theory behind most of it, but my last build was in 1990, a C3 L48. This is my first, joking, "modern" car, so I'm learning as I go a bit.

I have not heard of Evans, I'll look at it. Problem is every time I click a link for some cool hi-performance stuff, it costs me money, and lots of it.

I looked at the website. Their marketing is nice, but I am a skeptic about something I know nothing about. I figure if it were that good, we'd all know about it. Don't know.

Last edited by jsup; Aug 24, 2008 at 07:21 AM.
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Old Aug 24, 2008 | 08:25 AM
  #31  
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I read you plan on a trans cooler inline with the main radiator. I figure that will take some of the load off the main. However, I don't recall your posting anything about an oil cooler and I know you have considered it. Please share your thoughts on an oil cooler.

<edit>I didn't mean to come off as taking a pro-oil cooler or anti-oil cooler stance. I just want to learn from my betters. And if you ever do learn how to sht money I'll line up to take you to Taco Bell </edit>

Last edited by 94z07fx3; Aug 24, 2008 at 08:36 AM.
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Old Aug 24, 2008 | 08:30 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by 94z07fx3
I read you plan on a trans cooler inline with the main radiator. I figure that will take some of the load off the main. However, I don't recall your posting anything about an oil cooler and I know you have considered it. Please share your thoughts on an oil cooler.
My thoughts on an oil cooler right now are that I am running a 7 quart pan, up from 4.5 quarts. The volume alone will cool it of some.

Additionally, despite what many think, a conversation with PeteK that the stock oil cooler is good for about 20 degrees.

An oil cooler will be one of those wait and see things. Good news is that the car does have an oil temp gauge, which, will tell me where I stand. Nice to have an oil cooler, but I have yet to figure out how to sht money.
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Old Aug 24, 2008 | 10:14 AM
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From the net:

The more horsepower an engine makes the more cooling capacity it will need whether moving or not! More horsepower requires more fuel and more fuel makes more heat. You lose about 33% of your engine�s energy in heat carried away by the cooling system. It�s obvious to most that a higher hp engine at higher RPMs will need a cooling capacity to befit the additional power, but what a lot of rodders overlook is that even at idle, fuel circuits are utilizing small amounts of fuel and changes that improve horsepower will likely dictate small incremental changes (more) at idle, resulting in the production of more waste heat. This is especially true with cams that require higher idle speeds by design. So plan accordingly for more radiator or more flow and/or hopefully both when you add your horsepower goodies!

Never use over a 50/50 mix of water to antifreeze ratio.� Adding antifreeze to water will protect against boiling and/or freezing, but reduces the water�s ability to absorb heat.� Pure water as we have learned is the very best heat carrier and antifreeze significantly compromises heat absorption. In warmer climates, a 25%antifreeze to water ratio is sufficient enough for most applications for minimal protection for corrosion, boiling and freezing


There are three basic parameters that determine cooling efficiency: radiator surface area, coolant speed through the system, and the amount of airflow through the radiator. These three functions determine the efficiency of the system as expressed in Btu of heat rejection per minute

Last edited by MK 82; Aug 24, 2008 at 10:26 AM.
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Old Aug 24, 2008 | 11:36 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by MK 82
Nice try but surface area is measured in square inches.
Oh excuse me I should have said volume and that 20% increase in volume equates exactly to the 20% increase in surface area. I just did not want to do the calcs for surface since I do not know the diameter of the cylinder and stroke. Do you have those figures or could you do them for us?
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Old Aug 24, 2008 | 11:57 AM
  #35  
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Like MK 82 said, it's the horsepower. If you piddle along at cruise, a 427 probably doesn't need much more cooling than a 350, as it's not making much power nor much heat. And a 500hp 427 probably doesn't need much more cooling than a 500hp 350.

There's a decent chance the stock radiator won't be enough for a 500hp engine though. But it probably depends on how you drive it.

I doubt anyone can tell you exactly how much cooling you need. But also, it doesn't really matter. If you need 12.7258% more cooling than the stock radiator can handle, or you need 7.65982% more, well there are only a couple aftermarket rad choices anyway.

If you are concerned about costs, why not see how the stock unit does? If it doesn't cut it, you'll just have to drive the car easy until you can afford a bigger radiator.

To your analogy, though, yeah it's terrible. Gas burns at a temp, but you are trying to remove that heat it is making. So the fact it's the same temp is irrelevant.

Imagine you had to provide ice to cool boiling water down to 100F. A cup of boiling water is the same temp as a gallon of boiling water. But it will take a heck of a lot more ice to cool the latter down.
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Old Aug 24, 2008 | 02:34 PM
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OK lets do the math.

1 HP = 42.44 BTUs/MIN

300 HP = 12732 BTUs/MIN

600 HP = 25464 BTUs/MIN


Assuming that 33% of that heat is waste and must be removed by the cooling system.


300 HP reguires 4201 BTU/MIN capacity

600 HP requires 8403 BTU/MIN capacity


Survey says 100% increase.

What the capability of the stock system is--I don't know

But I doubt there is that much reserve capacity.
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Old Aug 24, 2008 | 04:31 PM
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From a PM I received:
hey john.. again you started a great thread. The extra heat does not get abrobed in the engine 100%. the better the engine scavages the cylinders the cooler it will run. with head work etc., your new engine will have a much higher volumetric efficiency rating than some stock gm **** engine, no one is thinking that the engine releases exhaust. what is this a home heating unit that we worry about BTU rating.

Our RACECAR (my edit) runs at 190 all the time with a small radiator from a Nissan meanwhile we make over 1200hp. The key to a cooling system is to keep the flow choked so the coolant stays in the rad long enough for the air to cool it before it gets to the engine again. their theory would be correct if we we using a fking ac system where we go from gas to condensed liquid back to gas through a compressor where all the compressed liquid is super heated then cooled back to a liquid, ask the guy how much of that cylinder temp is being exhausted. Top fuel dragsters stay cool making 3000 hp with a tiny radiator.. did you ever see a radiator from a mack truck on the front of a nascar circle car. they use radiators smaller than yours and run 500 mile races. Tell these guys to blow it out their asses.
Thought it was interesting enough to post.

You have to admit, he makes dam strong points.
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Old Aug 24, 2008 | 04:57 PM
  #38  
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http://www.stewartcomponents.com/Tech_Tips.htm

Never hurts to ask people who's entire gig is cooling.

If you want to make cooling an olympic sport, asking people whose car has to operate for maybe 30 seconds, isnt exactly productive. Their rides dont need long term cooling like a big hauler or endurance car is going to need.

I expect you will be fine with a stock radiator, and a good quality water pump for street driving and the occasional drag race.

Last edited by Guru_4_hire; Aug 24, 2008 at 05:01 PM.
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Old Aug 24, 2008 | 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Guru_4_hire
http://www.stewartcomponents.com/Tech_Tips.htm

Never hurts to ask people who's entire gig is cooling.

If you want to make cooling an olympic sport, asking people whose car has to operate for maybe 30 seconds, isnt exactly productive. Their rides dont need long term cooling like a big hauler or endurance car is going to need.

I expect you will be fine with a stock radiator, and a good quality water pump for street driving and the occasional drag race.
Hey, did you see the Nascar reference? The example about the 500 mile race? Just wonderin'...
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Old Aug 24, 2008 | 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by jsup
From a PM I received:


Thought it was interesting enough to post.

You have to admit, he makes dam strong points.
Because he's saying what you want to hear.

Granted, for what length of time would you be making 600 HP?

We'll see.

P.S. Tell MR PM to put it out in the open and we will debate it.

Last edited by MK 82; Aug 24, 2008 at 05:24 PM.
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