The rectifier is an array of diodes. Diodes are the "one way valve" of electricity. They allow current to flow in one direction and block it in the other direction. They are not capacitors, they are silicon devices.

With you meter on "ohms", a good diode will read open with the meter leads one way and some small value with the meter leads the other way. The diodes have to be isolated to check this way. If they are in a circuit one leg must be disconnected from the circuit.

Diodes can fail two ways. If one opens (like blowing a fuse) the alternator will not charge the battery. If one or more short, there will be a parasitic drain on the battery.

 

The dash voltmeter reads low with the engine not running, so don't trust the dash voltmeter engine off! Normal battery voltage (at the battery terminals) ,engine cold and running is 14.7 volts and 13.7 volts when the engine is up to temperature. The dash voltmeter reads 0.3 volts low due to the voltage drop across the ign sw contacts, so engine cold and running, the dash voltmeter should read about 14.3 volts and 13.3 volts engine warm, this is normal. You can tell the state of charge on car batteries by measuring the no load voltage at the battery terminals, 12.9 volts and higher, fully charged. 12.0 volts and lower, discharged and linear in between.
Never use your alternator to charge up your battery because dead batteries draw very large current at first and this will shorten the life of your alternator. Buy a battery charger and use it to charge up your battery.
If your new battery will not crank the car after sitting overnight, then you likely have excessive leakage current which discharges the battery overnight. First, at night, check for underhood lights, vanity mirror lights, door map lights, console light. Don't leave your ign key in the ign because this keeps the anti theft circuit on which can discharge the battery. Do you have a radar detector, CB, GPS, aftermarket alarm or radio or audio amplifier? Check em.
GM says leakage current should not exceed 50 milliamps, my 87 which has no problems measures 27 ma. You can measure the leakage current by disconnecting the neg battery cable and connect an ammeter from the cable to the battery terminal. Start your ammeter out on its highest scale and switch down to lower full scale current to measure leakage. You will have to disconnect the underhood lights. If you have excess leakage, remove the courtesy fuse so you can keep the passenger door open and pull fuses while watching the ammeter. Look for a drop in leakage current when you pull a fuse, this will identify the circuit drawing current discharging your battery. If no fuse causes a drop, then remove the nut on the jump start bolt behind the battery and remove the 8 wires on this bolt one at a time while watching the ammeter. You will have to trace the wire to identify what it powers if one wire causes a drop in leakage current.

 

I've only heard it from military or ex, my old boss was a Navy submarine electrical hack...you are talking about "Violet", right? :-)

 

Ok chickens
Bad Boys Rape Our Young Girls But Violet Gives Willingly.

In order: B = black (0), B = brown(1), R = red(2), O = orange(3), Y = yellow(4), G = green(5), B = blue(6), V = violet(7), G = grey(8), W = white(9).
Current trends in electronic components makes them too small to color code and they print the value on surface mount resistors and you need an electronc scanning microscope or a simple ohmeter to tell what you have!

 

you forgot the last part -- "Get Some Now"

for the tolerance % color coding bands, G = Gold (5%?), S = Silver (10%), and N = None

Geez haven't heard that one in many years but you *never* forget it!

 

Yeah

The ELT department in my university consisted mainly of guys with real world experience rather than professional teachers. The insights were valuable and the humor was...definitely not politically correct. A number of these guys had Navy background. Maybe that is where they got it.

You're right, it is a great mnemonic.