New owner - what mods to do first..
Drifting
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,695
Likes: 491
From: Denver, NC
Why can't we all just get along???
Anyhoooo, I wouldn't waste my time bypassing the t-body and descreening the MAF for the following reasons. You won't see a noticible difference and you might even create an issue in the MAF.
The screens are there to make the air flow over the wires in a controlled manner.
I'd drive the car a while, make sure it's sound then attack in a logical manner. When I bought my 95 I made sure it was a keeper, then did the required maint. and some necessary work. Just that adds up quick.
If you're on a budget look at exhaust and an air cleaner before going nuts elsewhere. Just my .02
Anyhoooo, I wouldn't waste my time bypassing the t-body and descreening the MAF for the following reasons. You won't see a noticible difference and you might even create an issue in the MAF.
The screens are there to make the air flow over the wires in a controlled manner.
I'd drive the car a while, make sure it's sound then attack in a logical manner. When I bought my 95 I made sure it was a keeper, then did the required maint. and some necessary work. Just that adds up quick.
If you're on a budget look at exhaust and an air cleaner before going nuts elsewhere. Just my .02
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 9,087
Likes: 0
From: Chicago IL
Anyhoooo, I wouldn't waste my time bypassing the t-body and descreening the MAF for the following reasons. You won't see a noticible difference and you might even create an issue in the MAF.
The screens are there to make the air flow over the wires in a controlled manner.
I'd drive the car a while, make sure it's sound then attack in a logical manner. When I bought my 95 I made sure it was a keeper, then did the required maint. and some necessary work. Just that adds up quick.
If you're on a budget look at exhaust and an air cleaner before going nuts elsewhere. Just my .02
The screens are there to make the air flow over the wires in a controlled manner.
I'd drive the car a while, make sure it's sound then attack in a logical manner. When I bought my 95 I made sure it was a keeper, then did the required maint. and some necessary work. Just that adds up quick.
If you're on a budget look at exhaust and an air cleaner before going nuts elsewhere. Just my .02
The TB bypass is just another simple mod. It couldn't hurt and is very cheap to do.
Drifting
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,695
Likes: 491
From: Denver, NC
I disagree. The only reason for the screen is to prevent debris from passing through. As long as a good air cleaner is used and the lid is tight, this will never be a problem. Removing the screen increases quite a bit of CFM.
The TB bypass is just another simple mod. It couldn't hurt and is very cheap to do.
Odds are he'd have an idle issue before he saw a dyno increase by removing the screen...
But hey - Let's agree to disagree
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 116
Likes: 0
From: Tampa FL
I don't have tons of money, but I have enough money to do one mod at a time. No rush..
I also understand the need to keep the engine well maintained.
Should I replace/flush the coolant? 33K miles..
Tranny fluid change? It looks good on a stick.
Fuel filter? Anything I'm forgetting?
This sounds good, how much my mpg will suffer with 3.73 as compared to 3.54?
Good pointers. Syn in tranny is scary, probably going to leak 
I was thinking of maybe custom exhaust. I'm also not sure what that cross (X) brace does, I guess it's needed for some reason, but it would be interesting to see the effects of 2 pipes not connected to each other..
What kind of changes did you get?
Thank you, good pointers..
WOW thats sounds really nice, what gears should I go with?
There is an article out of the net, they dynoed 96 Vette and got +10 hp with no screen, but 0 hp for throttle bypass..
I'm thinking maybe buying a second unit and looking how it feels like, can go back always..
BTW, how smooth stock idle is supposed to be? I'm new to the vettes so for me idle seems rough but..
I appreciate all you guys inputs! Man, it is addictive and fun
I also understand the need to keep the engine well maintained.
Should I replace/flush the coolant? 33K miles..
Tranny fluid change? It looks good on a stick.
Fuel filter? Anything I'm forgetting?
No way to 'just' increase torque down low, anything you do will add HP.
The same feeling would be accomplished by 3.54/3.73 gears and a 2400-2600 stall TC, and this would knock down those times as well.
Headers/exhaust would take care of the sound, but listen to other catbacks. Headers all give around the same power, and so do most catbacks, the only difference is the sound really.
The same feeling would be accomplished by 3.54/3.73 gears and a 2400-2600 stall TC, and this would knock down those times as well.
Headers/exhaust would take care of the sound, but listen to other catbacks. Headers all give around the same power, and so do most catbacks, the only difference is the sound really.
Start with basics:
-Go synthetic in the trans and rear diff
-Cat back exhaust (do a search on this forum, LOTS of info)
-bypass the coolant line in the throttle body
-New plugs and a good set of plug wires (NGK TR55 plugs and MSD 8.5 Wires are a great combo)
-clean the throttle body and the MAF, descreen the MAF
-Seafoam the motor
As far as low end torque, it is kinda hard to do with the LT1 because of the very short runners on the intake manifold. A 2,500 stall 10" converter would be a big change. Do not go too high numerically with the rear gear because first gear in the trans is very steep and you will have problems hooking up on the street and make for a tricky start in the rain.
-Go synthetic in the trans and rear diff
-Cat back exhaust (do a search on this forum, LOTS of info)
-bypass the coolant line in the throttle body
-New plugs and a good set of plug wires (NGK TR55 plugs and MSD 8.5 Wires are a great combo)
-clean the throttle body and the MAF, descreen the MAF
-Seafoam the motor
As far as low end torque, it is kinda hard to do with the LT1 because of the very short runners on the intake manifold. A 2,500 stall 10" converter would be a big change. Do not go too high numerically with the rear gear because first gear in the trans is very steep and you will have problems hooking up on the street and make for a tricky start in the rain.
as for exhaust...if you just want better sound there are a lot of guys that like muffler eliminators. I saw one recently that just used tips from a c6, looked good on the c4, and had a shop run straight pipes all the way back for a total price of under $150.00. If you want a nice exhaust go with corsa, I didnt and I regret it. I have spent close to 900.00 on exhaust and will never get rid of the resonance. You can also just put in an LTX pipe in place of the stock resonator for a good sound. Headers are very expensive as far as bang for your buck. Go with either a gear change or an edge converter. I am looking at these and the guy guarantees .5 sec faster in the 1/4 or your money back. You could prob. do either option on the exhaust and the tq. converter installed for under a grand. That would give you a good sound and a car in the low 13's which is c5 territory. my .02
My advice is to drive the car for a while, and then see what you think it needs. Believe me, many people have modded their cars into something they cannot stand to drive. Don't do that. Muffler elim's are a good start, but if you want headers, look into the vendors that sell a complete exhaust system.
Good luck
Good luck
BTW, how smooth stock idle is supposed to be? I'm new to the vettes so for me idle seems rough but..
I appreciate all you guys inputs! Man, it is addictive and fun
Last edited by mhack; Sep 24, 2008 at 01:10 AM.
Racer
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 258
Likes: 1
From: Temple, TX
what they do is adjust the timing and fuel curve, also makes the shifts stronger, feels like a shift kit with only 10 min. for install and not having to get into the tranny.
As far as the x pipe... by crossing the exhaust you are helping with scavaging sp? the cylinders. Also I think the big deal is that the stock resonator necks down to 2 1/4 and the x pipe I bought keeps you at 2 3/4 throughout. Plus with my aftermarket exhaust it helped with the droning. I wouldnt mess with the cats, I dont think there is a big difference, you get more droning, and you have to find a shop to pass you for inspection.
As far as the x pipe... by crossing the exhaust you are helping with scavaging sp? the cylinders. Also I think the big deal is that the stock resonator necks down to 2 1/4 and the x pipe I bought keeps you at 2 3/4 throughout. Plus with my aftermarket exhaust it helped with the droning. I wouldnt mess with the cats, I dont think there is a big difference, you get more droning, and you have to find a shop to pass you for inspection.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 9,087
Likes: 0
From: Chicago IL
The 3.54 gear and 2600 stall will give it plenty of punch with out annihilating the tires through first gear on the street and killing gas mileage.
I ran an L98 for 70K miles without the MAF screens and never had a problem. The hot wires in that one are way more delicate than the LT1 MAF.
Free mods are free mods, so why not? Every little bit helps.
Now, if you can pick up an airfoil for $5.00....
I ran an L98 for 70K miles without the MAF screens and never had a problem. The hot wires in that one are way more delicate than the LT1 MAF.
Free mods are free mods, so why not? Every little bit helps.
Now, if you can pick up an airfoil for $5.00....
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 116
Likes: 0
From: Tampa FL
The 3.54 gear and 2600 stall will give it plenty of punch with out annihilating the tires through first gear on the street and killing gas mileage.
I ran an L98 for 70K miles without the MAF screens and never had a problem. The hot wires in that one are way more delicate than the LT1 MAF.
Free mods are free mods, so why not? Every little bit helps.
Now, if you can pick up an airfoil for $5.00....
I ran an L98 for 70K miles without the MAF screens and never had a problem. The hot wires in that one are way more delicate than the LT1 MAF.
Free mods are free mods, so why not? Every little bit helps.
Now, if you can pick up an airfoil for $5.00....
Looks like my list is -
0. Maintenance
1. Computer programmed (faster shifts etc)
2. 3.54 gears
3. 2600 stall convertor
4. Some kind of exhaust - not sure what - corsa or custom or just muffler elim.
Mid to high 12s
Last edited by mhack; Sep 24, 2008 at 09:34 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 9,087
Likes: 0
From: Chicago IL
So 2600 stall should be plenty? What the rating on a stock stall?
Looks like my list is -
0. Maintenance
1. Computer programmed (faster shifts etc)
2. 3.54 gears
3. 2600 stall convertor
4. Some kind of exhaust - not sure what - corsa or custom or just muffler elim.
Mid to high 12s
Looks like my list is -
0. Maintenance
1. Computer programmed (faster shifts etc)
2. 3.54 gears
3. 2600 stall convertor
4. Some kind of exhaust - not sure what - corsa or custom or just muffler elim.
Mid to high 12s
There are a couple people here who bought a VERY nice Magnaflow cat back for less than $600 shipped from some vendor. I can't remember the name.
Keep in mind- changing the rear gear is a very expensive job because it is at least 8 hours of labor at a shop. Get a ring&pinion set with a bearing kit. Even though it only has 33K, you do not want this to have to been done again anytime soon.
You might as well replace some of the suspension bushings with polyurethane ones while they are under there.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 116
Likes: 0
From: Tampa FL
For a car that is comfortable to drive on the street, 2600 should be plenty. Is this a daily driver or how much track use is it going to see? Drag strip or autocross?
There are a couple people here who bought a VERY nice Magnaflow cat back for less than $600 shipped from some vendor. I can't remember the name.
Keep in mind- changing the rear gear is a very expensive job because it is at least 8 hours of labor at a shop. Get a ring&pinion set with a bearing kit. Even though it only has 33K, you do not want this to have to been done again anytime soon.
You might as well replace some of the suspension bushings with polyurethane ones while they are under there.
There are a couple people here who bought a VERY nice Magnaflow cat back for less than $600 shipped from some vendor. I can't remember the name.
Keep in mind- changing the rear gear is a very expensive job because it is at least 8 hours of labor at a shop. Get a ring&pinion set with a bearing kit. Even though it only has 33K, you do not want this to have to been done again anytime soon.
You might as well replace some of the suspension bushings with polyurethane ones while they are under there.
What will polyurethane suspension bushings do? Any side effects on this?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 9,087
Likes: 0
From: Chicago IL
The stock rubber bushings are now 12 years old. Rubber dries out and rots, polyurethane doesn't. The rear end will feel less loose with the poly bushings. The rear suspension in a C4 has quite a few bushings and that makes for a wiggly ride when they all go.
The only side effect is it may be a little bit stiffer ride, but if the shocks are still the factory ones, it should not be too bad.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 116
Likes: 0
From: Tampa FL
If 90% street use on nice days, then go a bit easy on the gearing and converter stall or you will wind up hating the way the car drives.
The stock rubber bushings are now 12 years old. Rubber dries out and rots, polyurethane doesn't. The rear end will feel less loose with the poly bushings. The rear suspension in a C4 has quite a few bushings and that makes for a wiggly ride when they all go.
The only side effect is it may be a little bit stiffer ride, but if the shocks are still the factory ones, it should not be too bad.
The stock rubber bushings are now 12 years old. Rubber dries out and rots, polyurethane doesn't. The rear end will feel less loose with the poly bushings. The rear suspension in a C4 has quite a few bushings and that makes for a wiggly ride when they all go.
The only side effect is it may be a little bit stiffer ride, but if the shocks are still the factory ones, it should not be too bad.
Is 3.54 too much?Got 3.07 currently.
I got that selective ride thing, not sure if it matters or not.
Also - is it supposed to be noticible Tour/Sport/Performance - mine is ALMOST the same..
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 9,087
Likes: 0
From: Chicago IL
I suggest this: the stock converter is a total dog. Replace the converter with a good one, like a Vigilante or similar. See how you like that. If it still seems like not enough, then do the rear gear.
The selective ride only changes the shocks and has nothing to do with the bushings. Shocks control up and down movement of the suspension. Bushings insulate the up and down and control side to side movements.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 62,171
Likes: 1,735
From: Athens AL
C7 of the Year - Unmodified Finalist 2021
C4 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
Yes the pan drops out.
To get an idea of what your mileage will be like with lower gears, put the car in 3rd and drive on the highway. Figure a half mpg difference between 3.54/3.73, so choose 3.54 if you drive on the hwy alot.
Stock stall is about 1500rpm.
The MAF screens are there to straighten flow over the sensor element, the air filter is there to protect it, and though L98s do benefit from the removal of the restriction of the screens, the LT1/4 engines rarely do. I would leave this alone.
Poly bushings require a good bit of lube, they squeak alot. It will crispen the handling a bit and the ride quality will go down, but otherwise theres no negative to it.
To get an idea of what your mileage will be like with lower gears, put the car in 3rd and drive on the highway. Figure a half mpg difference between 3.54/3.73, so choose 3.54 if you drive on the hwy alot.
Stock stall is about 1500rpm.
The MAF screens are there to straighten flow over the sensor element, the air filter is there to protect it, and though L98s do benefit from the removal of the restriction of the screens, the LT1/4 engines rarely do. I would leave this alone.
Poly bushings require a good bit of lube, they squeak alot. It will crispen the handling a bit and the ride quality will go down, but otherwise theres no negative to it.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 9,087
Likes: 0
From: Chicago IL
Removing MAF screens on the L98 makes a difference, then why do aftermarket MAF's for the LT1 not have screens?
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 62,171
Likes: 1,735
From: Athens AL
C7 of the Year - Unmodified Finalist 2021
C4 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 9,087
Likes: 0
From: Chicago IL