New owner - what mods to do first..
I just got the new 1996 C4' vert, I'm enjoying it so much..
But I'm also thinking on how and what to modify.
First, I'm going to do some base line track runs.
Wants:
- I want a nice sound even at idle, not too much, but more than stock.
- I want high torque down low, but I also want faster 0-60 and 1/4 mile time so if this means higher RPM limit I'm up for it.
- Better 1/4 mile time and 0-60 to some degree.
Current plan:
- Not first thing but I'm looking for 315 rear tires and wheels, not sure if I should keep my 255 up front or put 275. The rear tires are for the acceleration I'm not as diehard autoX guy

- Exhaust probably my best bet for the first mod? What are the options. Looking for higher HP/TQ on a dyno.
- What else

Appreciate all the info
I just got the new 1996 C4' vert, I'm enjoying it so much..
But I'm also thinking on how and what to modify.
First, I'm going to do some base line track runs.
Wants:
- I want a nice sound even at idle, not too much, but more than stock.
- I want high torque down low, but I also want faster 0-60 and 1/4 mile time so if this means higher RPM limit I'm up for it.
- Better 1/4 mile time and 0-60 to some degree.
Current plan:
- Not first thing but I'm looking for 315 rear tires and wheels, not sure if I should keep my 255 up front or put 275. The rear tires are for the acceleration I'm not as diehard autoX guy

- Exhaust probably my best bet for the first mod? What are the options. Looking for higher HP/TQ on a dyno.
- What else

Appreciate all the info



What you do first depends on what you want to spend of course
My $.02 on it
You want better sound and performance then put headers and a nice free flowing exhaust. Do a search and you will find many threads on that subject.
I am not an LT1 expert but common sense dictates to free up the intake (air cleaner modification) a little to get it to breath. I don't think that you need to tear into the engine yet though, many here are happy with the torque curve of the LT1.
Now for seat of the pants bang for the buck do a gear change. With an auto if you go to 3.45ish you will get good acceleration and if you want some fun factor throw a shift kit in there and it will feel like a hot rod. I don't know your engine well enough to recommend a stall speed for a converter but someone can chime in with experience with LT1 motors. If you do a converter choose the right stall, not just the highest

You should be able to do all of this for a couple three grand and a little down time while the rear end is set up
- I have open air box (came with it)
- I have 3.07 gears
- Oil & Filter changed
- Tranny - shop tells me not to change it?
- Air filter - planning to ispect/change
- read dif - do I need to change fluid here? Shop tells me not to..
- 33K miles - should I change belts? They look ok but threads are cracked
- What hoses?
Budget to do 1 mod at a time

So..
1. Headers
2. Exhaust
3. 3.45 gears
4. Shift kit
LT1Edit or Hypertech?
p.s. Turned out my neighbor is a gearhead (has couple cars with Lxx engines) looked at the Vette yesterday and said - "Once a Corvette guy - always a Corvette guy.."
Last edited by mhack; Sep 23, 2008 at 09:41 AM.





The same feeling would be accomplished by 3.54/3.73 gears and a 2400-2600 stall TC, and this would knock down those times as well.
Headers/exhaust would take care of the sound, but listen to other catbacks. Headers all give around the same power, and so do most catbacks, the only difference is the sound really.
-Go synthetic in the trans and rear diff
-Cat back exhaust (do a search on this forum, LOTS of info)
-bypass the coolant line in the throttle body
-New plugs and a good set of plug wires (NGK TR55 plugs and MSD 8.5 Wires are a great combo)
-clean the throttle body and the MAF, descreen the MAF
-Seafoam the motor
As far as low end torque, it is kinda hard to do with the LT1 because of the very short runners on the intake manifold. A 2,500 stall 10" converter would be a big change. Do not go too high numerically with the rear gear because first gear in the trans is very steep and you will have problems hooking up on the street and make for a tricky start in the rain.
Last edited by formul89; Sep 23, 2008 at 09:47 AM.
-Go synthetic in the trans and rear diff
-Cat back exhaust (do a search on this forum, LOTS of info)
-bypass the coolant line in the throttle body
-New plugs and a good set of plug wires (NGK TR55 plugs and MSD 8.5 Wires are a great combo)
-clean the throttle body and the MAF, descreen the MAF
-Seafoam the motor
As far as low end torque, it is kinda hard to do with the LT1 because of the very short runners on the intake manifold. A 2,500 stall 10" converter would be a big change. Do not go too high numerically with the rear gear because first gear in the trans is very steep and you will have problems hooking up on the street and make for a tricky start in the rain.
I think other folks here would disagree with synth in the auto. Not necessary. If you don't know the history, may be better left alone.
Removing the MAF screen does nothing.
Oh and change the fuel pump relay. It could fail at any moment.
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He is busting your chops but he does have a point. Please don't take offense but I can't take it any more.
The OP asked about what to modify, most here would not consider a tune up a modification. The synthetic, MAF screen, coolant bypass, and seafoam seem to me insignificant so why waste the time if there is no noticable gain to be realized. The time will be better spent polishing the wheels for lower wind resistance.
Just my $.02 here but why recommend to a new member things that only give them the satisfaction of opening and closing the hood without any results
The OP asked about what to modify, most here would not consider a tune up a modification. The synthetic, MAF screen, coolant bypass, and seafoam seem to me insignificant so why waste the time if there is no noticable gain to be realized. The time will be better spent polishing the wheels for lower wind resistance.
Just my $.02 here but why recommend to a new member things that only give them the satisfaction of opening and closing the hood without any results

Kinda like sticking that big block in your car with out a refresh. Hey, why waste the time? Every little bit helps.
Car isn't going to run much better if the basics are not covered. A good tune and all help. Removing the MAF screen is not going to knock a half sec off a 1/4 time. CFM is CFM, every little bit helps and it costs nothing to do but a few minutes.
I have been around f-body and Corvette message boards for 10 years. I have seen countless posts "Just bought a ______ and what mods to do first?"
Then you find out the car has a ton of miles and was never maintained and they wonder why the $2,000 headers and exhaust did not do much.
Last edited by formul89; Sep 23, 2008 at 11:19 AM.
Kinda like sticking that big block in your car with out a refresh. Every little bit helps.
Car isn't going to run much better if the basics are not covered. A good tune and all help. Removing the MAF screen is not going to knock a half sec off a 1/4 time. CFM is CFM, every little bit helps and it costs nothing to do but a few minutes.
However that is not the case. The choke points are typically found in the intake and heads.
As to the trolling more than helping comment.
Still waiting to hear what you do for a living.
Well written
Good luck










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