Drive it for a bit, see what you like about it and where it doesn't meet your satisfaction.

Research from there. Perhaps join your local Corvette club (or two). Great resource for parts and shops. Go to shows and cruises and find out was has worked and hasn't worked for others.

 

Only if the engine can use the extra CFM. I've seen more than one LT1 owner here lose ET because of doing this mod, so I dont recommend doing it.

 

I have already tried explaining that to him. Good luck!

 

 

Not to interrupt you guys But I looked on my mufflers and ..
there are none
Looks like PO removed them, what I have are some pretty large pipes with a little bulge in place where mufflers are, look like like really slim cats - some kind of resonance chamber I guess..

I guess I already have muffler eliminators

I wonder what else he did? Would be nice to have LT4 383 under the hood

BTW Am I supposed to be able to chirp/spin tires with stock LT1 in 1st (no powerbrake)?
Sometimes I chirp going in to second..

 

Good grief!

 

Take a pic and post it. They might be resonators.

 

What

 

I would get that in writting.



Best mod for the $$$. Keep the car feeling and driving like stock 24/7 except when you flip the switch.

I'd go with a good converter with a 2800 stall. Yank, Edge, Vigilante, etc..



Hold off on a gear swap. The 3.07 is not that bad. I would at least go with a 2800 stall if bothering with the converter swap. I'm now looking at heads and cam and I wish I would have gone even higher on the stall. My 95 auto with 9.5in Vigilante 2800 stall and 3.07 still feels like it has the stock converter until you put it to the floor. Unlike a gear swap, there was no noticeable change in gas mileage either. I would use a tranny cooler, even with the stock converter to lengthen the life of the trans. They are cheap enough. When changing gears or converter a stickier tire will be needed to see an improvement. That of course opens up the potential for breaking stuff easier on harder launches. IMO

 

Ahh young grasshopper - someday you will grasp the pebble. However, you may want to research many of the electronic throttle control vehicles in the world.

They actually restrict the airflow at low rpm's to build MORE power by keeping the velocity up. So, more cfm is more cfm, but is it helpful or hurtful?

The most common misconception in the motorcycle and bike world is bigger ports, exhaust etc is always better. I have seen many a vehicle suffer from too much cfm. The key is that the combination must work together - the components must compliment the air-pump that we call a motor.

 

Your Corvette is nice and if you drive it a lot then just drive it.
If you want more start with K & N and and then Full length Headers w/bungs welded in for your Oxygen sensors and Air Pump fittings. Also make sure you get Headers with thick flanges [ thicker the better ] you won't have leaks.
A good three inch exhaust with high flow cats and a Dr X pipe [ real important it will reduce noise inside the car] and if you want to further reduce noise put on resonators and good Mufflers.
My 383 hot rod Vette is as quieter than my stock vette because of the exhaust Mods listed above.
Just figure out your goal and do mods progressing towards that goal.
Don't spend money on mods only to come back and change them again.
I have 450 HP LT 4 in my 95 with a radical cam , 1.6 rockers , 1,000 CFM Holley , 42 lb injectors , ported heads , 3200 stall , built 4L60 E , Dana 44 w/373 gear and I drive it on the Hwy at 70 getting 13 MPG.
I have the Accel Generation 7 Computer but haven't really got to do much laptop tuning yet but being able to tune it for road use and track and save it in your laptop for loading at the track is a big plus when you do a lot of mods .
I think I can get that Mileage up by another 5 w/more tuning.
The big injectors are for the boost thats coming.
I haven't put the procharger on yet but its coming.
The D1 fits under hood with no mods.
I also have the 315 TA Drag Radials on American Torque Thrust wheels and with enough backspace very little sticks out using the 17 x 10.5 wheels.
I went with the stock fronts even though the car sees occasional road track use on a local 1.3 mile course.
Yes it has ride control and adjustable traction relocators.
It may be a Hot Rod but its still a sports car too.

 

Thats kind of what I'm trying to build. Thank you for the info!

 

After playing with an L98 motor for 11 years, I am well aware of velocity and the bigger is not always better problem.

Removing a restriction on the intake is never a bad idea. You may want to remove your K&N filter or cold air intakes then, because they flow more air (ya know, CFM) also.

So, take the screen out. It take two seconds and will flow a little more air.

 

Don't waste money on things twice. Also visit the camaro forums for a different point of view. If you are building it for hp and don't care about sound I'd just remove the stock restrictions and skip on the over priced corsa exhaust and put it toward something that will add power.

A laptop and datalogging/tunning software would be a good first buy also. I use datamaster TTS, TunerCat, PCMFORLESS tune, with a Moates.net cable on my 95.

 

I started looking in to this, but who makes a programmer for 96?
It's OBD-II..

 

Well, if you want massive, immediate results, you can go with the Hot Cam Kit. GM hot cam, a little lopey but very streetable, springs, 1:6 aluminum rockers, LT4 timing set. Earlier this year I met a guy at the track, this set up, ran low 12's. In terms of exhaust, Headers are great but for bang for the buck this will get you there quicker. Headers might get you 8-10 hp right now, or this kit for 30-40 right now. About the same money and direct fit. JMHO

 

I'm kind of keeping an eye on that cam.
Will drive it for a while and then definately thinking of the cam for it.

p.s. Here are my results for 1/4 mile with very soft launch - http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=2142054

 

I agree with Rick on the converter (I have a 2800 stall) on my DD with 3.45s and I'm going to replace it with a 3400-3600 stall.

As for descreening the MAF it is not a restriction on the LT1s and lots of LT1 experts will tell you not to do it (professionals not internet keyboard warriors).
The free mods where a waste of my time (TB bypass and the like)

IMO the best bang for the buck on a LT1 C4 is a gear and TC swap. ....and check my sig I've done most of them. Headers helped the most when I finally did my head cam swap. Poly bushings really improved the way it feels above 170 (Im sure lowering helped too)

MIke

 

Thank you for the info.
How does 2800 change the DD feel?
Also what kind of cam did you get?

"way it feels above 170 " - not sure what you are talking about?

What is the best place to get a 3.54 gears?

 

1. 2800 feels no different on the highway around town with the stock engine it felt a little like a slipping tranny when using small amounts of gas, however, when using lots of go pedal its was amazing.

I wish I had gone bigger on the stall, my tuner believes a 3500 vig would be better for my current combo since I didn't stop with gears, and LTs.

2. I have a custom cam that works well with my 12.1:1 compression 355 with ported intake and heads from AI.

3. I pulled a D44 out of a manual car. Car used to feel light around 160-165mph.