C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

pumpkin removal help!!

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Old Sep 30, 2008 | 09:25 PM
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Default pumpkin removal help!!

Well I I got my 3.75's and bearing kit, so now I am deciding to take it in and have iit all done or do it my self! The corvette shop says it's 8 hours just to swap gears in carrier, so I am thinking if I can just pull the pumpkin myself and take it and the new parts in I will be better off!
Anyone who has done this what is the quickest and easiest way to get out what I need? I have searched old threads and saw one guy did 2 in 4 hours!!! can the pumpkin be seperate from the batwing? Please help me thru this THANKS!!!!
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Old Sep 30, 2008 | 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by pologreen1
Well I I got my 3.75's and bearing kit, so now I am deciding to take it in and have iit all done or do it my self! The corvette shop says it's 8 hours just to swap gears in carrier, so I am thinking if I can just pull the pumpkin myself and take it and the new parts in I will be better off!
Anyone who has done this what is the quickest and easiest way to get out what I need? I have searched old threads and saw one guy did 2 in 4 hours!!! can the pumpkin be seperate from the batwing? Please help me thru this THANKS!!!!
https://www.corvetteforum.com/techti...=218&TopicID=2
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Old Sep 30, 2008 | 09:48 PM
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Thanks Pete that is the one I seen and was searching for!!! Now my question is should I just take the whole unit in together so they can install and reseal and fill it up or won't that work? I just want to be able to get it back in and no sealing I am afraid of sealing that thing!
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Old Sep 30, 2008 | 09:55 PM
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It's easier just to drop the whole rear end out...the trick is to get the car high enough to work on it...a lift or car trailer makes it much easier. The carrier and pumpkin are not that heavy but it is akward though so get some extra hands at that point. Yeah you can pull the whole rear in ~ 3 hours with no problem. Good call on having the "shop guys" do the gear swap....I wouldn't try to swap the ring and pinion yourself unless you've got a few under your belt already. Getting the proper backlash setting is critical for the gears to last.

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Old Sep 30, 2008 | 10:43 PM
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I just pulled out my 2.59 D36 and swapped out the 'pumpkin' with a 3.07 D36. Myself, a friend and a lift. Not a bad job. We did it in 5 hrs, with interruptions. With a lift and no interruptions figure 4 hours. The pumpkin, fluid, and batwing combined was about 110 lbs, so we just lifted it in and out. I would not even try it without a lift now, 30 yrs ago fine, but not now.
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Old Sep 30, 2008 | 11:28 PM
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Originally Posted by aminnich
I just pulled out my 2.59 D36 and swapped out the 'pumpkin' with a 3.07 D36. Myself, a friend and a lift. Not a bad job. We did it in 5 hrs, with interruptions. With a lift and no interruptions figure 4 hours. The pumpkin, fluid, and batwing combined was about 110 lbs, so we just lifted it in and out. I would not even try it without a lift now, 30 yrs ago fine, but not now.
did tou do it like the lnk pete k gave me? I think I can handle that... I hope.
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Old Sep 30, 2008 | 11:32 PM
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Originally Posted by engle1147
It's easier just to drop the whole rear end out...the trick is to get the car high enough to work on it...a lift or car trailer makes it much easier. The carrier and pumpkin are not that heavy but it is akward though so get some extra hands at that point. Yeah you can pull the whole rear in ~ 3 hours with no problem. Good call on having the "shop guys" do the gear swap....I wouldn't try to swap the ring and pinion yourself unless you've got a few under your belt already. Getting the proper backlash setting is critical for the gears to last.

Yeah they are a corvette shop, but it worries me to trust some one setting it up, and maybe not doing a good job!! But thats their job they know better than me or I would do it!
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Old Oct 1, 2008 | 08:00 AM
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I've taken the rear out of my car enough times that I could probably have it out now in an hour or so.
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Old Oct 1, 2008 | 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by pologreen1
did tou do it like the lnk pete k gave me? I think I can handle that... I hope.
Almost the same. First you have to remove the exhaust, take it out as a complete unit from the cat's back (leave the cats alone). Where he just unbolted the inner tie rod bracket (picture #3) I took the outer ends off and set the unit aside. Then he doesn't mention the C beam, which was a bit of a PITA. Support the rear of the trans and take the two bolts out that secure the C beam to the diff. Reaching the nuts is awkward, but not really bad. Then take the main driveshaft loose at the diff (by moving the rear of the trans slightly up and down you get the clearance to get the ujoint out). If I remember the C beam nuts/bolts are 22mm, 8mm for the ujoint strap bolts, lot of the others are 13 and 15 mm. Hope this helps.
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Old Oct 1, 2008 | 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by aminnich
Almost the same. First you have to remove the exhaust, take it out as a complete unit from the cat's back (leave the cats alone). Where he just unbolted the inner tie rod bracket (picture #3) I took the outer ends off and set the unit aside. Then he doesn't mention the C beam, which was a bit of a PITA. Support the rear of the trans and take the two bolts out that secure the C beam to the diff. Reaching the nuts is awkward, but not really bad. Then take the main driveshaft loose at the diff (by moving the rear of the trans slightly up and down you get the clearance to get the ujoint out). If I remember the C beam nuts/bolts are 22mm, 8mm for the ujoint strap bolts, lot of the others are 13 and 15 mm. Hope this helps.
man you guys have all been a great helpI think with time I will get because I don't have a lift! jack stands will have to do.. It saves me like $700 more money for an intake!
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