C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

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Old Oct 28, 2008 | 07:33 PM
  #21  
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i was thinkin component bc the problem is so predictible no matter the gear the car dies i just cant see wires grounding out at the same time everytime but the guy thats working on it now seams to think wiring too.
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Old Oct 29, 2008 | 10:56 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by harleymarkt
i was thinkin component bc the problem is so predictible no matter the gear the car dies i just cant see wires grounding out at the same time everytime but the guy thats working on it now seams to think wiring too.
Let us know when you find out what's wrong. It would be a great help to anybody else who runs into a similiar problem. It's hard to believe components, as the computer can't kill the whole electrical system and let the engine just die, no matter what the input codes from the wheels, transmission and sensors. Best of luck, as that's a tough problem, but ultimately solveable.
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Old Oct 29, 2008 | 02:49 PM
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the shop i had it at just gave up told me to come pick it up they even replaced the ecu and still have the same problem
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Old Oct 29, 2008 | 04:35 PM
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i got a update the car only died at 3k if u are at full throtle or close to it. drive at 50
% throtle all day it never cuts out
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Old Oct 29, 2008 | 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by harleymarkt
i got a update the car only died at 3k if u are at full throtle or close to it. Drive at 50
% throtle all day it never cuts out
TPS. Know how to test it?

Pinch the insulation of the two upper TPS-wires with a pair of needles or the prongs of a digital voltmeter with ignition ON, engine off.
Positive at upper, negative at middle wire.
Put meter on DC scale 20 volt.
Should show 0.54 volts at "idle", slowly raise the "throttle", engine off.
Should steadily rise to 4.5 or 4.8 volts.

Easy and cheap check.

Wondering if the mechanic did this check.

If nothing wrong, then it´s most likely in the spark system.

Last edited by vette079; Oct 29, 2008 at 04:52 PM.
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Old Oct 29, 2008 | 05:48 PM
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ill jump right on this he checked it with a scan tool he didnt charge me anything since he couldnt fix it i gave him a 100 bucks anyway super guy he worked on it for two weeks. it only died in motion it does fine in the driveway
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Old Oct 29, 2008 | 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by redrose
1) check fuel pressure at 3000 rpm UNDER LOAD (revving it up in the driveway does not req same fuel input as when loaded)...low pressure may be due to dirty filter or a dying fuel pump (in-tank GM fuel pumps are only good for 10 yr or 100k miles, whichever comes first)
Have you tried this? My parents had a car in the early 80's that had a similar issue turned out it was trash in the gas tank that would clog in the pick up line. When the car shut off the debris fell off and it started fine. As they drove it would pick up the debris again and clog back up. The more gas they gave it the more it clogged. Just a thought and please come back and tell up when its diagnosed!
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Old Oct 29, 2008 | 10:56 PM
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ill look into for sure i do run it kinda low sometime
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Old Oct 30, 2008 | 01:14 AM
  #29  
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You are assuming it is only one thing that is taking place. It sounds like 2 things to me.
1. I would check out the distributor module or the tach filter....
That might explain the quitting at 3000 RPM, but for the electrical to die and shut off the radio, I would suspect the alternator or ground path from the battery. (RPM of the alternator)
2. There is a possibility that the harmonics of the car vibrate the internal contacts of the ignition switch, and you might lose the 12 volts to the ignition module when the distributor cuts out.
3. The loss of voltage could be pointing to a battery internal intermittent open.
4. There are several fusible links that might be a culprit?
5. loose battery cable at the starter?
6. defective starter solenoid?
7. Or the open in the battery leaves the alternator to carry the load, and the ground lead on the back of the head is loose.
8. There is a loose connector on the distributor? (see #1 reasoning)
9. Vats module activating due to a bad alternator voltage spike?
10. bad ignition coil wire in the dist. cap
11. throttle position sensor for RPM, alternator for body.
12 Is there a body control module?

Just my head scratching............
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Old Oct 30, 2008 | 06:02 PM
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Geez Mark I hope you find out what is doing this. I've asked some really smart Vette techs and they have never heard of anything like this.

Good luck, keep digging and keep us posted

Jim
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Old Oct 31, 2008 | 11:38 AM
  #31  
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I still say, find a dyno, get the guy with the scan tool and have him sit in it, while you're running the car on the rollers. Some of the suggestions, should be thoroughly checked out. The gas tank scenario is easy enough on a Corvette. After disconnecting the battery, it might take all of ten minutes max, to get into the tank and take a look inside.

CoupeGuy had some really good ones . This is what this forum is all about and it has been a superb source of info. Keep us posted, we'll want to know what it was.
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Old Oct 31, 2008 | 11:53 AM
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I have seen a fusable link at the starter give a intermittent problem before they are designed to melt when you draw to much current through them but age can also give you a bad connection I would turn the radio on and wiggle the wires on the starter to check it that is where your ignition gets it power from if you can't get it to acted up doing that it might be a ground problem take some jumper cables hook up one end to the neg side of the battery and the other on the engine somewhere on the engine then see if the problem goes away if so you have a poor ground cable.
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Old Nov 4, 2008 | 09:02 AM
  #33  
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i fixed the vette yesterday aint seen the tach of the boards in a while thanks guys for the help. i have a check engine light on now looking into that today
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Old Nov 4, 2008 | 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by harleymarkt
i fixed the vette yesterday aint seen the tach of the boards in a while thanks guys for the help. i have a check engine light on now looking into that today
What did you find as the dies @ 3000k only problem?

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Old Nov 4, 2008 | 09:15 AM
  #35  
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kinda funny i was test driving it and it started acting up so i kicked the kick panel and it staightened out so i took it off and found a wire rubbing up against a metal bracket so i taped it up and its good as new. and my speaker works again
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Old Nov 4, 2008 | 09:21 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by harleymarkt
kinda funny i was test driving it and it started acting up so i kicked the kick panel and it staightened out so i took it off and found a wire rubbing up against a metal bracket so i taped it up and its good as new. and my speaker works again
So the ol' shorted wire routine eh? Glad to hear you got it figured out...good work sometimes these cars just need a good kick or two!

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Old Nov 4, 2008 | 11:42 AM
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I am stoked that you finally fixed the problem!
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Old Nov 4, 2008 | 03:24 PM
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Man that must be a big relief. Well done

Jim
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