When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Under heavy acceleration the car will run smoothly then all of a sudden lose some power and the check engine light will turn on. It will still accelerate but feels more Honda civic-like. doesn't seem like the clutch is slipping, doesn't rev disproportionately to acceleration, just slows down. Any help would be appreciated.
Does your car throw codes? If so, maybe the reason for the check engine light is stored in your car's computer somewhere.
Originally Posted by Red85L98
Under heavy acceleration the car will run smoothly then all of a sudden lose some power and the check engine light will turn on. It will still accelerate but feels more Honda civic-like. doesn't seem like the clutch is slipping, doesn't rev disproportionately to acceleration, just slows down. Any help would be appreciated.
Is it tied to a single RPM range? If the engine seems to suddenly cut out at a certain RPM, it could be injectors. I agree though, check the codes first.
Could be anything. Get the codes. Mine was doing something similar at one point. It ran fine but under heavy acceleration it would fall flat and run like a 4cyl. After a few days I discoverd this in the pic below.
The air duct was cut and on heavy acceleration it would cut off the air supply.
Could be anything. Get the codes. Mine was doing something similar at one point. It ran fine but under heavy acceleration it would fall flat and run like a 4cyl. After a few days I discoverd this in the pic below.
The air duct was cut and on heavy acceleration it would cut off the air supply.
That looks like one of them super low quality crap "power couplers" out of Mid America. A 100% total piece of junk!
That looks like one of them super low quality crap "power couplers" out of Mid America. A 100% total piece of junk!
Yep, it's from midamerica and it is a big piece of junk. The piece on the TB side is sort of holding up except for where the nitrous line goes in. It is starting to crack there. I wasted $40 a piece on those.
Last edited by rickneworleansla; Nov 19, 2008 at 10:13 AM.
I also like the looks and the smooth insides but it's not much good if it doesnt last. Unless I replace it every two years for another $80.
Hot Rod Ron will tell you that they didn't last even six months on my '96 before cracking and falling apart. They are made from inferior materials and are just JUNK. Don't waste your time or money to find this out the hard way, especially if you are running a de-screened MAF!!!
I remember the guy i bought it from saying it doesn't throw codes, but its in the shop now for a rear main so ill have them check fuel pressure as well. Took it to a friends garage a week ago and he said everything was fine, now I'm in for a rear main, possibly injectors and he left my tranny, o/d unit and rear end almost bone dry.
I remember the guy i bought it from saying it doesn't throw codes, but its in the shop now for a rear main so ill have them check fuel pressure as well. Took it to a friends garage a week ago and he said everything was fine, now I'm in for a rear main, possibly injectors and he left my tranny, o/d unit and rear end almost bone dry.
Bogging down and loss of power during hard acceleration can be caused by clogged cats. Get them checked out as well.
Bogging down and loss of power during hard acceleration can be caused by clogged cats. Get them checked out as well.
also, a stopped up fuel filter will cause it to loose power on the top end. But usually with that, it is a miss as well. Again, I would look hard at the converters.
Under heavy acceleration the car will run smoothly then all of a sudden lose some power and the check engine light will turn on. It will still accelerate but feels more Honda civic-like. doesn't seem like the clutch is slipping, doesn't rev disproportionately to acceleration, just slows down. Any help would be appreciated.
Check for stored codes should be the first step. Most auto part stores will check them for free.
Sounds like the fuel pressure regulator (FPR) is busted....but this shouldn't really throw a code....