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I had the brace installed yesterday. Only problem is if you have your Vette aligned for racing, the top two bolts are not long enough, at least for me. (they should add these two bolts to the package).
How it connects to the upper control arm:
I have not really had a chance to try it out yet. It felt (front end), real stiff and tracked better on the way home last night on the Freeway. But to really try it out, I need to find a windy road and give it a real try out. I am off to do that now and will post some more pic's later on also. :flag
The site where I post my pic's is down right now.
OK on eval:
I have FX-3, so I tested the brace is all three modes on diferent surfaces:
Performance: Much improved handling and tracking in turns. Front end does not have any of the shake it use to have.
Sport: Still tracks well. Turns are still smooth and steady.
Tour: Tracks much better then before I installed it. Point the front end and the tires follow. Much quicker and less vibrations.
Tried speed bumps both stright on and at a angle. No looseness or vibrations felt. Seems to reduce the vibrations/shaking I use to feel at high speed also. Railroad tracks, excellent. Vibrations and swaying are gone also.
All in all: I would give it a 9 out of 10, for the price and ease of installation.
I have not taken the top off yet, but will maybe tomorrow and will let you all know how much improved it feels also. I also have the "Harness bar" installed.
Why it works so well: At high speed the tires tend to try and point in towards the frame. This bar keeps the alignment steady, even at high speeds at the race track. (You notice I put "race track" in there).
:D
I've got my GM guy working on the need for a longer bolt. I see in your picture, you've got a lot of caster set in your front end. As soon as I get my hands on the right bolts, they'll be headed your way.
Glad your satisfied with the results, I did a lot of track time before presenting this item to you guys, so we could give you the results that you experienced.
Thanks,
Dave Cooper
R-D racing enterprises
573-756-6954
Great feed-back, Best I've read so far on this product. I'm staring @ my camber brace as I type (I Believe they call it multi-tasking) She's going in this weekend (on a Roadster L98) I'll be sure to fire off a new thread.
Oh, by the way Dave. Only compaint so far is that it is tough to take off all of the shrink wrap (I used an exacto, cutting up/not against the unit) without scratching your product.
Dave, OK, on bolts. You will need 5", #8, course thread bolts. Also washers and nuts. Brace seems to work just great, at all speeds and road types.
As far as taking off the plastic, I just found the end of it and just peeled it back the way it was put on.
As far as the "caster" that I have set, it is due to the tires or rather, the whole tire + control arms wanting to tilt in at the top the faster you go. Right now it is set for a "road racing" course and the street. The alignment looks funny sitting still, because the top of the tire sticks out further then the bottom. But as soon as you get up to speed, the tire is nice and stright. If you do not set them up this way, what happens is you wear out the inside of the front tires real fast. I am going to have to play with the alignment a bit now that I put on the brace. I think that is the best that I can explain it. :flag
Great feed-back, Best I've read so far on this product. I'm staring @ my camber brace as I type (I Believe they call it multi-tasking) She's going in this weekend (on a Roadster L98) I'll be sure to fire off a new thread.
Oh, by the way Dave. Only compaint so far is that it is tough to take off all of the shrink wrap (I used an exacto, cutting up/not against the unit) without scratching your product.
:lol:
That has to be my #1 complaint. I sure you'll like it even more installed.
Dana I don't want to offend you,but unless I'm missing something here your alignment thoughts are backwards.If you are after performance align,roadcourse cornering you are going to need negative camber. The inward tilt of the top of the tire.If you do any cornering with postive camber you will wear the out side edges of your tires off and not stick to the road.Caster effects straight line stability and turn in and is the tilt fore and aft of your ball joints.When you corner the weight of the car is transfered toward the outside, the springs and bushings compress the car leans.With the correct amount of negative camber you will end up with the full contact patch of the tire on the pavement.For autocross or road course only generally in the 2to3 degrees of negative camber. The trick for most is to find a street and track compromise for tire wear.negative will wear inside positive will wear outside especially if pushed around a corner.Street and performance compromise .75 to 1.5 neg camber. I,m sure you realize I'm not much of a writer or teacher. Do a search of alignment settings I'm sure there is alot of info on the Forum.Oh Yeah my original reason for butting in. As you move toward neg camber that bolt will get longer as you pull out shims.
I got the Chamber-brace at the end of last season's autox and really like the differance it made on the track. One of the best mods to get. And does not have any negative aspects in daily driving!!
Thanks Dave!!!!!!!
John B, I guess I will have to check on this. I was told the reverse of your statement. I do not get offended John, I can always learn something new each day. :D
I have to agree with John also. I run my 84 pretty hard and it's for track use only. All my settings are backwards from where your saying you are. You might Guldstrand's out there aand see if they can reccomend an alignment for your overall driving. It can really make a huge difference on the track.