Roller Rockers
Sorry for all the questions I just need a little better advice on the subject than what I am finding . My car is a 94 LT1 by the way .
Thanks
Sorry for all the questions I just need a little better advice on the subject than what I am finding . My car is a 94 LT1 by the way .
Thanks

Added spring stress may cause issues on a high milage set up as well....the LT4 already breaths pretty good. I have no experience with the 1.7s though...maybe they are a good thing.
I look at over ratio rockers as kind of a gimmick for most applications. If you want that added duration or lift then just get the cam that gives it to you. For just rockers alone they benefit too little to bother. IMHO

http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?p...4&dept_id=1771
http://www.wku.edu/~nathan.plemons/h...ockerarms.html
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts

http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?p...4&dept_id=1771
You can get Crane or Comp Cams roller rockers for less than that.
Stronger & lighter then aluminum. I've run them before with a high lift cam, big springs. These Enduro's accept the largest diameter retainers without interference I know of. Huge fulcrum, light but strong body. Just the tickethttp://store.summitracing.com/partde...6&autoview=sku
The stock LT1 has a .300 lobe. So its .450 lift using the stock 1.5 ratio rockers, .480 using 1.6 ratio rockers and .510 using 1.7 ratio rockers. Since its only .510 lift at the valve, retainer to guide clearance SHOULDN"T be an issue, but DO check it anyway.
The stock ovate wire LT1 springs are only good to .480 lift from their stock 1.700 set up height.
Scorpion is the only company I know of that still makes a 1.7 ratio stud mounted rocker for the SBC. They are 7/16 stud, non-self aligning only. Hence the need for studs, guide plates and pushrods.
You will HAVE to plot your valve train/rocker geometry to buy the correct length pushrods. Hence the need for an adjustable pushrod.
I tried to get it all from one place but your PROBALLY going to have to call and special order the rockers. Links to the parts I think you should use, now this is all good stuff, not the cheapest stuff but it is the cheapest I would try and do it.
Howards 1.250 valve springs, C/M retainers and locks. $73.00
http://www.competitionproducts.com/p...sp?number=VSA4
ARP 7/16 studs. $34.00
http://www.competitionproducts.com/p...umber=100-7101
Manley Guide Plates. $20.00
http://www.competitionproducts.com/p...number=42151-8
Scorpion 1.7 rockers. (pn SCP1026) $200-250.00
http://www.scorpionperformance.com/n...category_id=74
FLATLANDER RACING ALSO MAY HAVE THEM IN STOCK-
http://www.flatlanderracing.com/scor...s.html#chevySB
Comp 6.8-7.8 adjustable pushrod checker tool. $19.00
http://www.competitionproducts.com/p...?number=7702-1
Manley C/M 5/16 .080 wall pushrods. (Your going to have to buy the correct lenght after you plot the rocker gemoetry). $130.00
http://www.competitionproducts.com/p...s.asp?dept=691
I'd be interested to see the difference on a dyno. Good luck
Will
Last edited by rklessdriver; Dec 27, 2008 at 02:26 PM.
I look at over ratio rockers as kind of a gimmick for most applications. If you want that added duration or lift then just get the cam that gives it to you. For just rockers alone they benefit too little to bother. IMHO
well right Jimi but benefit at what cost is my point. The added stress and loss of geometry TO ME is just not worth the nominal increase in power. Like I say just MHO.
CAJUN

Stronger & lighter then aluminum. I've run them before with a high lift cam, big springs. These Enduro's accept the largest diameter retainers without interference I know of. Huge fulcrum, light but strong body. Just the tickethttp://store.summitracing.com/partde...6&autoview=sku



















