cc305 vs
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,074
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From: dover Delaware
360 rwhp, on a dynojet I assume? That's about 310 on a loading style (Land and Sea or Mustang) dyno. That would be about right, IMO.
Going much bigger with the cam will cause the cam surge, you will need to stay in a gear that keeps the rpms up to stay away from it. You might be able to go a little bigger with the cam but I don't think you would gain enough to be worth the work and money, especially since you have to pass emissions.
Seriously, put a nice wide set of Nitto drag radials on it, set the psi to 22 to 24 psi. You will be amazed at the gained traction. They are way stickier than any street tire on the street and they handle and drive well. Heat them good at the track and they are like glue. Any tire that is better than the Nitto at the track, IMO, isn't very stable for continued street use. Do some adjustable shocks or something to help if you still need more traction. I'd bet your setup can get to 1.9 or maybe 1.8, with a dead hook maybe a 1.7 60 ft. Mid 12's are yours if you get it hooking. Your money and time will be much more productive for you in tires/suspension then it will be in a cam swap.
IMO, LT headers would pick you up some ponies too.
As a rough point of reference, my current combo is a CC503 cam, HSR intake, reworked 113 casting (stock vette) heads, 10.1:1 SCR, 2800 stall converter, 3.07 gears, Nitto drag radials, lots of other supporting mods. I only made 1 pass on motor, lauched fairly easy and dead hooked, it was a 12.95 @ 105 mph. Car weighs roughly 3300 without me in it. Gearing is not nearly optimized, and I have bad blow-by. Just by re-ringing the motor I'd bet I could get a 12.7 or a 12.6. I'd bet with a dead hook you would run that or better with your current setup.
Are your pistons forged? If so, spend $800 on a Zex nitrous kit and a bottle heater. Put the 125 jets in, spray it after launch, and pick up a full second in the 1/4. Put in 200 jets and pick up 1.5 to 1.75 in the 1/4. If your first gear is a bear even on drag radials, don't push the button till after you shift to 2nd. Just another option that works for me so I'm throwing it out there to you.
Going much bigger with the cam will cause the cam surge, you will need to stay in a gear that keeps the rpms up to stay away from it. You might be able to go a little bigger with the cam but I don't think you would gain enough to be worth the work and money, especially since you have to pass emissions.
Seriously, put a nice wide set of Nitto drag radials on it, set the psi to 22 to 24 psi. You will be amazed at the gained traction. They are way stickier than any street tire on the street and they handle and drive well. Heat them good at the track and they are like glue. Any tire that is better than the Nitto at the track, IMO, isn't very stable for continued street use. Do some adjustable shocks or something to help if you still need more traction. I'd bet your setup can get to 1.9 or maybe 1.8, with a dead hook maybe a 1.7 60 ft. Mid 12's are yours if you get it hooking. Your money and time will be much more productive for you in tires/suspension then it will be in a cam swap.
IMO, LT headers would pick you up some ponies too.
As a rough point of reference, my current combo is a CC503 cam, HSR intake, reworked 113 casting (stock vette) heads, 10.1:1 SCR, 2800 stall converter, 3.07 gears, Nitto drag radials, lots of other supporting mods. I only made 1 pass on motor, lauched fairly easy and dead hooked, it was a 12.95 @ 105 mph. Car weighs roughly 3300 without me in it. Gearing is not nearly optimized, and I have bad blow-by. Just by re-ringing the motor I'd bet I could get a 12.7 or a 12.6. I'd bet with a dead hook you would run that or better with your current setup.
Are your pistons forged? If so, spend $800 on a Zex nitrous kit and a bottle heater. Put the 125 jets in, spray it after launch, and pick up a full second in the 1/4. Put in 200 jets and pick up 1.5 to 1.75 in the 1/4. If your first gear is a bear even on drag radials, don't push the button till after you shift to 2nd. Just another option that works for me so I'm throwing it out there to you.
Last edited by tomsws6; Jan 2, 2009 at 03:44 PM.
