C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

[tire]very slow leak...help

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Old Jan 27, 2009 | 11:32 AM
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Default [tire]very slow leak...help

A week ago I discovered my LR was flat; it's a GY Eagle HP Ultra Plus 275/40ZR17.

I took it to a shop where they did the usual dunk test and replaced the valve core. I mounted the tire onto the Vette in early evening and by next morning it was flat again.

Subsequently I took inflated the tire to 45psi and personally went over it with soap bubbles (the rubber, the valve stem and even the metal of the wheel) and could not find any leak. Even close inspection with a very strong light and magnifies could reveal no problem spot.

Two days ago I inflated it to 45psi and left it in the hatch of the IROC-Z for 48hrs; this morning I checked pressure and found it at 41psi. Air temp was about the same on each day.

I dropped the pressure to the normal driving pressure of 33psi and intend to check again in 48hrs.

I'm really stumped as to what could be the problem; it's very difficult to leak test with such a slow leak.

Anyone have any suggestion as to how to diagnose this problem??
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Old Jan 27, 2009 | 11:49 AM
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My thoughts:

If it's new, take it to whoever installed it in the first place and have them pull if off the bead and put it back on. It will need balanced again, too. If they're a reputable shop, they shouldn't charge for re-doing their work to get it right.

If it's been on there a few years, take it to any tire shop and have them do the same. They'll probably charge a few bucks.

If it's worn out or nearly worn out, buy new tires and have them installed.
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Old Jan 27, 2009 | 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by 65Z01
A week ago I discovered my LR was flat; it's a GY Eagle HP Ultra Plus 275/40ZR17.

I took it to a shop where they did the usual dunk test and replaced the valve core. I mounted the tire onto the Vette in early evening and by next morning it was flat again.

Subsequently I took inflated the tire to 45psi and personally went over it with soap bubbles (the rubber, the valve stem and even the metal of the wheel) and could not find any leak. Even close inspection with a very strong light and magnifies could reveal no problem spot.

Two days ago I inflated it to 45psi and left it in the hatch of the IROC-Z for 48hrs; this morning I checked pressure and found it at 41psi. Air temp was about the same on each day.

I dropped the pressure to the normal driving pressure of 33psi and intend to check again in 48hrs.

I'm really stumped as to what could be the problem; it's very difficult to leak test with such a slow leak.

Anyone have any suggestion as to how to diagnose this problem??
Are the rims chromed aluminum (extra shiny)?

I've found that some valve stems do not seal well against the rims well on these shiny applications and if you go to tighten the valve core the entire valve stem just spins in the rim instead of tightening the internal core seat.

If your's is spinning....try holding the valve stem with a pair of channel locks loosely and tightening the valve core again. Air it up again and check it for loss in a few days.

If you still have a problem remove the tire and valve then clean/inspect the rim, valve and the tire for damage on the mounting/contact surfaces.
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Old Jan 27, 2009 | 02:31 PM
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Though they have been in service a few years, there seems to be ample tread left above the wear indicators for another season or two.

The wheels are OEM '89-style painted white (35th Anna) and the valve stem didn't seem to rotate when the tire was flat.

Looks like the consensus is to have a shop dismount and inspect the tire, sort of what I was expecting. It's just so frustrating to not be able to locate the damn leak...

Thanks for the feedback.

Last edited by 65Z01; Jan 27, 2009 at 02:35 PM.
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Old Jan 27, 2009 | 02:35 PM
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Pick up some "Tire Leak Detector" at the auto parts store. It's like your soap but better. Soap tends to put bubbles everywhere on the tire, then you have to spot the moving or growing ones to find your leak. The leak detector doesn't bubble as easy until it comes into contact with that elusive leak.
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Old Jan 27, 2009 | 04:23 PM
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Thanks for the tip; I'll try and get some "Tire Leak Detector" and locate the leak before taking it to the shop for repair.
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Old Jan 27, 2009 | 05:25 PM
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I had a slow leak like that, it was the valve stem which was easy, but we found it by submerging the wheel underwater and watching.
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Old Jan 27, 2009 | 05:35 PM
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I have a 90 and have had issues twice now with the tire seating correctly. Check the bead and have it redone.
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by 65Z01
A week ago I discovered my LR was flat; it's a GY Eagle HP Ultra Plus 275/40ZR17.

I took it to a shop where they did the usual dunk test and replaced the valve core. I mounted the tire onto the Vette in early evening and by next morning it was flat again.

Subsequently I took inflated the tire to 45psi and personally went over it with soap bubbles (the rubber, the valve stem and even the metal of the wheel) and could not find any leak. Even close inspection with a very strong light and magnifies could reveal no problem spot.

Two days ago I inflated it to 45psi and left it in the hatch of the IROC-Z for 48hrs; this morning I checked pressure and found it at 41psi. Air temp was about the same on each day.

I dropped the pressure to the normal driving pressure of 33psi and intend to check again in 48hrs.

I'm really stumped as to what could be the problem; it's very difficult to leak test with such a slow leak.

Anyone have any suggestion as to how to diagnose this problem??
say the valve "core" was replaced; was only the inside valve replaced? The whole thing should be changed, it's cheap enough, while the tire is off the rim I'd check the beads around the inside and outside for rough edges, can't hurt.
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 03:38 PM
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common prob with all alum wheels after a few years with tire mounted, even if never driven in salt/rain, is corrosion at the bead and where the valve core body meets the wheel...air leakage may occur over a wide area, making detection difficult...best fix is to remove tire and valve core body and polish contact surfaces (do not use a wire brush for any but temporary repair)...worst fix is "glue" that many tire shops apply to all alum wheels that they touch.

gilette "foamie" shaving cream, or = , will bubble up at leaks that soap won't show.
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 04:36 PM
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When a tire on both my 96 and my son's 96 developed very slow leaks (different times), I increased the air pressure to the MAX then sat each in my bath tub, full of water.

After a minute or two, I saw the bubbles.

Jake
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 04:47 PM
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Yes, right now I'm thinking the bead of the valve stem.

Aaah the good ole bath tub test, brilliant...
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