Blew my LT1?!

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Mar 15, 2009 | 07:57 PM

#21

BrianCunningham

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From: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA

since the hub isn't keyed mark both the hub and the crank before you pull it.

Mar 15, 2009 | 08:03 PM

#22

STL94LT1

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From: O'Fallon Missouri

The hub can stay on during an opti/distributor change, and the balancer only goes on one way.

Mar 15, 2009 | 08:43 PM

#23

BrianCunningham

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From: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA

I've got the vented cap on my 95, and I had to pull it, there was no way it was coming off otherwise.

Mar 15, 2009 | 09:20 PM

#24

STL94LT1

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From: O'Fallon Missouri

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrianCunningham

I've got the vented cap on my 95, and I had to pull it, there was no way it was coming off otherwise.

Hmmm, that's odd. I upgraded my 94 to all of the 95 opti parts, and I can leave the hub on.

Mar 16, 2009 | 02:25 PM

#25

dragonwarrior88

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From: Waukegan Illinois

Quote:

Originally Posted by STL94LT1

Hmmm, that's odd. I upgraded my 94 to all of the 95 opti parts, and I can leave the hub on.

i have to figure a way how to keep the pully from moving. theirs no room and is it easier up top or lifting the car?

Mar 16, 2009 | 02:31 PM

#26

dragonwarrior88

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whats the diff between the 93 and up. i knoe they changed it but what they change

Mar 16, 2009 | 03:41 PM

#27

M.J.L.

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From: Made In America

St. Jude Donor '10-'11

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrianCunningham

One of my lifters ticked like crazy when I got it out of storage.

It eventually freed up and it's fine now.

If a bearing went, generally the engine would be shacking a lot, generally.

Could be a exaust leak or low oil as mentioned.

Mar 16, 2009 | 07:50 PM

#28

aboatguy

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From: Slidell Louisiana

Quote:

Originally Posted by dragonwarrior88

i have to figure a way how to keep the pully from moving. theirs no room and is it easier up top or lifting the car?

I put a wrench on the hub bolt and another on the bolt I want to remove. I also use the wrench in a manner to give the hub bolt a mechanical advantage (pull wrench up across the damper vice with it sticking straight from the side)

I can remove damper bolts from above but at times its easier from underneath

Quote:

Originally Posted by dragonwarrior88

whats the diff between the 93 and up. i knoe they changed it but what they change

95 corvette got different opti

B bodies had vented opti entire time they used LT1 (94-96)

I've pulled the opti with the hub on but I had to rotate the engine IOT get the correct hub postion.

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Mar 17, 2009 | 07:35 PM

#29

dragonwarrior88

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From: Waukegan Illinois

ill give it a try. what plugs and wires would you guys recommend. i might as well change em...

Mar 17, 2009 | 07:41 PM

#30

STL94LT1

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From: O'Fallon Missouri

Taylor Spiro Pro 8mm wires, and NGK TR55 plugs.

Mar 17, 2009 | 10:07 PM

#31

dragonwarrior88

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From: Waukegan Illinois

which TR55 plugs lol theirs 3 different ones i believe. im lookin at the wires on summitracing.com and it only comes with 8 wires dont i need 9 for the i believe ignition coil? btw what cylinder would the 2 straight end plugs go on?

Mar 17, 2009 | 10:15 PM

#32

STL94LT1

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From: O'Fallon Missouri

Quote:

Originally Posted by dragonwarrior88

what cylinder would the 2 straight end plugs go on?

6 & 8

My Spiro Pro kit came with 8 plug wires and two coil wires.

I can get part numbers on both in the morning if you would like.

Last edited by STL94LT1; Mar 17, 2009 at 10:17 PM.

Mar 17, 2009 | 10:19 PM

#33

dragonwarrior88

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From: Waukegan Illinois

Quote:

Originally Posted by STL94LT1

6 & 8

My Spiro Pro kit came with 8 plug wires and two coil wires.

I can get part numbers on both in the morning if you would like.

that would be great. thanks a lot! wered you order it off of?

Mar 17, 2009 | 10:21 PM

#34

STL94LT1

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From: O'Fallon Missouri

Got my wires from Summit and my plugs from Advanced Auto.

Taylor Spiro Pro 8mm part# 74225.
NGK TR55 part# 3951

Last edited by STL94LT1; Mar 18, 2009 at 02:24 PM.

Apr 9, 2009 | 03:54 PM

#35

dragonwarrior88

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From: Waukegan Illinois

still havent got the crank pully off lol. weathers been ****ty. but anyways i bought a puller from autozone but the bolts didnt fit the 3 holes and if i went to the hardware store the bigger bolts wont fit on the puller! lol.

Apr 9, 2009 | 11:26 PM

#36

A95Y

Burning Brakes

Joined: May 2006

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From: St. Louis Missouri

You don't need a puller. The hub and pulley are 2 different pieces.Autozone will not have a puller to get the hub off.

Apr 10, 2009 | 02:23 AM

#37

dragonwarrior88

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From: Waukegan Illinois

Quote:

Originally Posted by cheetah

You don't need a puller. The hub and pulley are 2 different pieces.Autozone will not have a puller to get the hub off.

i took off 3 bolts how do you pull it off?

Apr 10, 2009 | 07:03 AM

#38

Weav's Vet

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From: Sandhills of North Carolina

No offense but are you sure you should be doing this........there is a reason this cost around a 1000.00 or better to do if you have it done by someone who knows what they are doing. At any rate maybe some reading up on it wouldn't hurt before you go any further. And it would surely save a lot of "LOL's".

http://www.corvettefever.com/howto/16758/index.html

Apr 10, 2009 | 08:02 AM

#39

TWISTERUP

Burning Brakes

Joined: Feb 2009

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From: Richmond Virginia

Quote:

Originally Posted by dragonwarrior88

i took off 3 bolts how do you pull it off?

likely stuck to the hub...soak the front of the balancer w/PB Blaster...let it sit for a bit and you should be able to put a piece of wood against it from underneath the car and hit the wood w/hammer and it should come off. you may have to rotate the crank a few times in between hammer blows..but it will come. Some come free easy..others are more difficult