C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Daniel Stern Lighting Upgrade

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Old Mar 8, 2009 | 11:00 PM
  #21  
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Right now the upgrade is exactly where the pics show it I haven't had time to finish it yet, all other problems have been solved. Did your high beams work before? The only ground recommended by DS is the battery negative and that's where mine are going to, maybe you should check the grounds and see if that's the problem... or one of the relays/or wiring to them has gone bad/loose (since one relay is for high beam and one for low)?
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Old Mar 8, 2009 | 11:04 PM
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Actually why don't you just bypass the relays and hook the lights directly to the battery to see if they work. If you checked the relays and they are good then there must be a break somewhere in your stock wiring that the relays use to turn themselves on as I mentioned in your other post.

Last edited by dan6712cc; Mar 8, 2009 at 11:09 PM.
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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 02:22 PM
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What type of upgrade is this? True HID? If so, where did you locate the ballasts?
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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 05:57 PM
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Yes high beams worked before and after upgrade. They just mysteriously stopped working one day.
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Old Mar 10, 2009 | 07:09 AM
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Originally Posted by onedef92
What type of upgrade is this? True HID? If so, where did you locate the ballasts?
HID is the worst route you can take with these cars, if you go to the website linked in this thread it explains why.
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Old Mar 10, 2009 | 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by dan6712cc
HID is the worst route you can take with these cars, if you go to the website linked in this thread it explains why.
I'm just asking what type of lighting upgrade did you get from Daniel Stern? Improved sealed beam halogens or what?
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Old Mar 10, 2009 | 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by 95wht6spd
I did all this a while back, just posted a new thread concerning high beams not working or driving lights.
I didn't read all of yours, but did you resolve issues? The square black pieces are relay bases so you can plug the relays in.
Where did you ground wires?
Do your brights and driving lights work? Does your driving light switch activate your brights?
Yes everything is resolved, the grounds should all go to the battery negative. DS says not to use the frame for ground. I'm soldering the last connectors now and threading on tech flex so I should have an answer for you on if it works later today.
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Old Mar 10, 2009 | 12:06 PM
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Here's the update with pics...

This piece plugs in to the bulb, all the wiring is wrapped with tech flex,



Housing and Bulb





Wire is routed in the same place the original wire was... you can see the tech flex going around the housing.



Passenger side wiring is routed in the black plastic pouch thing under the Mobil 1 sign.



The wires meet at the brace where the hood strut is attached, it just runs underneath.



Then both wires come up next to the inner fender where the relay will be mounted (the high and low beam wires splice together and plug into the relay), the ground wires will continue along side the edge of the engine compartment to the negative battery terminal.



The relay also gets the original high/low beam wires and ground wire from the drivers side, the passenger side original wires are left disconnected. The power wires with inline fuses from the alternator plug into the relays.

Last edited by dan6712cc; Mar 10, 2009 at 12:11 PM.
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Old Mar 10, 2009 | 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by onedef92
I'm just asking what type of lighting upgrade did you get from Daniel Stern? Improved sealed beam halogens or what?
Cibie H4 Ecode headlamps, Osram Ultra High Efficiency 85/80W bulbs, 10 gauge wiring kit with fuses and relays. The bulbs are halogen and separate from the headlamp housing.

Last edited by dan6712cc; Mar 10, 2009 at 12:35 PM.
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Old Mar 10, 2009 | 12:46 PM
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As I said I'll post pics of how the lights look after the upgrade but don't have any from before to compare. However I did find these pics from a guy with a Jeep. The before and after shots with stock vs. the same Cibie H4s and Osram 85/80W bulbs I have. His Jeep stock lighting looks alot better than my Vette, so the difference should be even greater.

Before


After
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Old Mar 10, 2009 | 06:09 PM
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Looks good. Let me know how those bulbs last. I went through 3 in about 18 months or less. Switched to the 130/90 Hellas recently to see if they would last longer, plus they are even brighter. This was a great upgrade for me, just wish I could get the brights and driving lights to work.
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by 95wht6spd
Looks good. Let me know how those bulbs last. I went through 3 in about 18 months or less. Switched to the 130/90 Hellas recently to see if they would last longer, plus they are even brighter. This was a great upgrade for me, just wish I could get the brights and driving lights to work.
From what I've been reading they usually last up to a year, I guess it depends on how much you drive at night. As far as the Osram Ultra High Efficiency 85/80W vs. the Hella 130/90W, DS told me the Osrams give better light output. I initially wanted the 130/90Ws. So you got better lighting with the Hellas? If so I might try them out when these Osrams burn out.

Last edited by dan6712cc; Mar 11, 2009 at 09:25 PM.
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 06:01 PM
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Well i was getting tired of the expensive hard to find bulbs burning out in a short time. So I got the other kind, for less through Summit. We will see how long they last. 1 of the Osram actually had a large bubble in the glass when it failed! DS told me the same thing about the lighting pattern etc., but I cannot notice a difference except the 130 is brighter and I have 1 of each in now, so it is a good comparison.
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 07:49 PM
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I did this upgrade about 5 years ago. Those lamps and high watt bulbs are at least as much as any HID system I've seen. The beam is pattern is excellent. The light is white not blue. The bulbs I've used 130/100w usually last over a year. Some of the newer bulbs have higher lumen output and draw less current, they might last longer.
If you read Daniel Sterns site the relay upgrade alone will improve your light since it will get rid of the voltage drop in the skinny factory wiring. I had over .5v drop in mine.
By the way put those bulbs in something without the wiring upgrade and you'll blow fuses and melt down the world. My 100w low beams draw 18amps total.

JS
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Old Mar 13, 2009 | 10:01 AM
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Just finished installing everything, the headlights work, both high and low beam work. It looks bright, but it's daylight so I won't be able to see the full effect until it gets dark, and I need to align them.
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Old Mar 13, 2009 | 10:14 AM
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Default A Q if I may ask...

...sorry to barge in, but you guys seem to have this down pat!

It is possible to do just the wiring and relay upgrade with out changing the stock sealed beam head lights? I was thinking that I could do this in stages, wiring & relays first and then later do the work on the light assemblies for the swap to non-sealed beam lights later?

TIA

Tom
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Old Mar 13, 2009 | 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by tomtom72
...sorry to barge in, but you guys seem to have this down pat!

It is possible to do just the wiring and relay upgrade with out changing the stock sealed beam head lights? I was thinking that I could do this in stages, wiring & relays first and then later do the work on the light assemblies for the swap to non-sealed beam lights later?

TIA

Tom
Sure you can do the wiring and relay upgrade first, that alone will make your lights a little bit brighter by helping out with the voltage drop of the 16 gauge stock wiring, then just pop in the new headlights whenever you get them.
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Old Mar 13, 2009 | 04:15 PM
  #38  
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Here are the pics of the finished installation... these are the fused power wires (disregard the big one, that's from my Big 3 upgrade and doesn't apply to the lighting upgrade).


Relay mounted...


Still need to cut off the tips of the screws so you don't poke yourself working around here.
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Old Mar 13, 2009 | 08:00 PM
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Did you check to see if your driving lights work?
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Old Mar 14, 2009 | 10:10 AM
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Ok, there's a problem now the headlights will open/close fine when the car is not turned on, but when it's started the headlights take a long time to close and close erratically. I'm posting a new thread about the problem.
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